Sharpening question for Standing bear or Ron

[jonsimoneau]

#7644

Hey Guys, lots of great sharpening threads on here. I have a question for you guys. Has either one of you been able to get a 3 blade like a woodsman as sharp as a two blade? I mean I can get them pretty sharp, but nowhere near as sharp as a two blade. I’m thinking it may have something to do with the angle of the bevels. They seem to be like 30 degrees or so. Is there a good way to get them down to say 22 degrees so they can be as sharp as a two blade? Any info will help. By the way Ron, thanks so much for the sharpener. That sucker is amazing on 2 blade heads!

[Daniel]

#7715

The answer to your question is Yes, absolutely !!! We are splitting our wood for the winter season but tonight I’ll take a picture and show you an example using a Rothar Snuffer. Thank you for your question, I’m sure Rick, I’m sorry about that, Ron has a way too 🙂

[sharpster]

#8034

Hey Jon,

How the heck are ya man? Good to see you posting here. I’ll be honest, I can’t get a conventional 3 blade anywhere near as sharp as a two blade. Back in the late 70s I had some of the original Snuffers that I was able to get “off the scale sharp” but it took a very long time. Never been able to reproduce those results since though. We had radius tooth files and stones of every grit on the table at Denton a couple weeks back and I had every 3 blade shooter who came to our table sharpen a Woodsman, explaining their individual techniques as they workd and not one of them could get the head to shave cleanly. I think from a sharpening theory standpoint, everything about sharpening two blades at the same time is just wrong. Hopefully Standing Bear will enlighten both of us.

Ron

[MontanaFord]

#8068

I don’t remember for sure if I had my Wensels shave sharp or not, but i sure had them sharp enough to drop through a piece of paper from a foot above and go completely through…I used the Montec diamond stone for my Wensels. It’s about a $30 stone.

Michael

[jonsimoneau]

#8175

Ron, I don’t know nearly what you guys know, but I agree. People can get their 3 blades sharp enough to shave and so can I, but nothing like I can get a 2 blade…especially since I used your sharpener! Any ideas from either of you would be greatly appreciated!

[Daniel]

#8212

Been a very long and hard day, cut the end of a aluminum arrow and screw the broadhead to it. Open the KME knifesharpener jaws and insert the arrow in it with the broadhead 1/2 inch away from the jaw. Make sure the two blades of the broadhead are level with the jaws and voila, you can now add a 22 degree edge to the blade. To do the two other blades simply rotate the arrow and level the two blades so they are level and repeat the process. To do the other side, just flip the broadhead and repeat the procedure.

I was able to get my Rothar Snuffer crazy sharp and at 22 degrees. I used the diamond hones , medium, fine and extra fine that Ron sent me to do this, they work great.

Special note on getting these babies to sharpen is take your time and don;t add too much pressure. The other thing is make sure you balance your edge, meaning if you gave one side of the blade a pass, then do the other side.

Hope this made sense, its a bit late to start taking pictures but I will add them to your tread later.

[sharpster]

#8591

Standing Bear,

You may have the angle on the sharpener set at 22 degrees BUT… if you’re sharpening two blades at the same time, you’re still sharpening them at 30 degrees per bevel (60 degrees included/total angle).

Ron

[Daniel]

#8675

All I can say is Ron’s sharpener will amaze you in ways it can sharpen. A genius of a man, a kind hearted soul and great product developer.

I am able through the use of a great sharpening device sharpen a single blade at a time ( Rothar Snuffer ) adding 22 degrees and getting them scary razor sharp. And no, I an not touching two blades at 30 degrees, the diamond one is only adding the edge I want to the one blade.

You know, I’ll sharpen either broadheads or knives and makes guys shake their heads, simply because they thought it wasn’t possible. It may not be conventional, but the work gets done in the end. Its really tough trying to explain how I do things sometimes over the internet while it would be so easy if you were here in my shop.

Will leave now, wishing all of you a beautiful day.

[sharpster]

#8727

[quote=StandingBear]All I can say is Ron’s sharpener will amaze you in ways it can sharpen. A genius of a man, a kind hearted soul and great product developer. quote]

Dan, You must have me confused with someone else! 🙂

Can we see some pics of how you’re doing this?

Ron

[Daniel]

#8855

No Ron, I am talking about you, anyone that is lucky enough to have the chance to know you is a very fortunate person. I think its important to give what is owed to people that deserve it. Not only do you give people 150 percent of yourself, you also have a listening ear that enables people to feel better.

I am glad in a sense to have this opportunity through jon’s tread to share with the readers of Tradbow what lots of us believe is a great addition to our world, that’s you Ron, yeapers, Ron of KME Sharpening Systems.

Enough said about you Ron, thank you for allowing us to share in your unconditional support of a great edge.

[sharpster]

#9005

Way more than enough said about me ‘rick… Now about those pictures…

[David Petersen]

#9044

Please allow a question/comment from a relative amateur, and side-trailing a bit from the original question of 3-blade vs. 2-blade sharpness possibilities. So far I’ve not seen anyone mention single-bevels, which cut the edge angle in half. That is, if you sharpen a double-bevel at 25 degrees, that’s 50 degrees up there at the edge. But a 25-degree single-bevel is 25 degrees, si no? And you can only do single-bevels with 2-blades (and have them work for their primary purpose of creating twist-torque). I use big honkin’ 3-blades for turkey and like most people sharpen them flat, two blade edges at a time, on a flat stone. The result is more than enough to rip through a gobbler. But for big tough-skinned, heavy-boned game like elk, I’m to the point where personally I want to go the “full 9 yards” with single-bevel. But all of that aside, the sharpening tips Bear and Ron are providing here and elsewhere on this site are superb for every purpose, and the photos very helpful. Now while you’re at it, maybe one of you can start a new thread, with pics, on using the KMR to sharpen hunting knives? One question I always have is how far out the edge the blade should stick from the jaws. Thick vs. thin blades, etc. With gutting, skinning and buthering season almost here, it’s that time again. Thanks! dave

[sharpster]

#9243

Dave,

I’d have difficulty using the words “amateur” and Dave2old in the same sentence. 🙂 I’m planning tutorials on both subjects you mentioned- single bevel sharpening and basic knife sharpening. Please bare with me though as it’s our busiest time of year and I barely have time to check the threads. I want to use pics at minimum and better yet video clips. I have the text mostly written but if a picture is worth a thousand words, then a short video clip must be priceless. Stay tuned.

As for blade positioning in the clamp, give me a call about that … wouldn’t want to highjack Jon’s thread.

Ron

[jonsimoneau]

#18962

Standing bear, I kinda understand what you are talking about but not completely. If you get some pics up, that will be great!

[Mark Turton]

#19685

Completely off topic but that’s the way my brain is wired.

Dave used the term “full 9 yards” for those that might be interested, during WW1 Vickers machineguns were fed with belts 9 yards long and when things got a bit hairy the command was ‘give em the whole 9 yards’.

Sorry about the diversion but the whole subject of where terms such as this come from fascinates me.

Mark.

[Author]

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