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Has anyone ordered a Hickory Longbow from Rudder Bows? I’ve wanted a one-piece hickory bow for quite some time and really can’t beat the price. I’m thinking about ordering one for next hunting season.
I just wanted to see if any of you had experiences with them.
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LimbLover wrote: Has anyone ordered a Hickory Longbow from Rudder Bows? I’ve wanted a one-piece hickory bow for quite some time and really can’t beat the price. I’m thinking about ordering one for next hunting season.
I just wanted to see if any of you had experiences with them.
eagle here, I have bought staves of hickory from them. I have made 35 bows now. Their wood is good. If they offer a floor tillered bow , it should be OK. happy shooting.
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eagle wrote: [quote=LimbLover]Has anyone ordered a Hickory Longbow from Rudder Bows? I’ve wanted a one-piece hickory bow for quite some time and really can’t beat the price. I’m thinking about ordering one for next hunting season.
I just wanted to see if any of you had experiences with them.
eagle here, I have bought staves of hickory from them. I have made 35 bows now. Their wood is good. If they offer a floor tillered bow , it should be OK. happy shooting.
Thanks Eagle. What poundage would you recommend for a 30″ draw?I’m not sure how much selfbows stack. I’m very new to this. I was thinking a 55# would be good.
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I have a u-finish longbow, and it stacks like crazy . . . but then again any longbow stacks like crazy compared to a recurve:D
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Good point, Chris. Please allow me to expand and clarify. What needs comparing in most cases these days is no longer recurve vs. longbow, but glass-lam bows vs. all-wood bows. All glass bows stack less than all wood bows at the same weight. That’s the nature of thicker wood limbs, and hickory is a serious stacker. But when comparing today’s complex glass-lam custom bows–which may include graphite, foam and cross-hatched glass lams — while there are differences between designs and bowyers’ products, the old recurve vs. longbow comparisons are gone. Basically today’s deflex-reflex longbows accomplish the same things as a recurve — decreasing string angle with limb tips at full draw and enhancing thrust a bit. Rather than having all the recurve at the tips, the d/f longbow spreads it throughout the limbs. But what about glass-lamb straight longbows vs. recurves? Different story. The string-tip angle will always be higher with a straight longbow than with a recurve, and to make up for it you have to go with longer limbs on the straight longbow to decrease the string angle. Sorry if I’m confusing everyone (and maybe myself) but I’m trying to say that while Chris has the right idea here, it no longer applies to “all.” 😉 And for the short answer to the original question: keep in mind Chris’s advice and if you buy or build a Rudder or other all-wood longbow, buy as long as you can deal with to reduce stacking. Snuffs
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Thank you Snuffy!
I normally shoot a broom-handle D-style bow so the reflex/deflex doesn’t really apply to me. However, my bows are glass backed.
BowLegend.com had selfbows at the Kalamazoo expo and they looked harder to draw than any modern bow at less poundage. With my 30″ draw I’ll need a 72″ bow and I should probably get a 40#.
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