Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Riser shelf design question
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I have seen bows that have the shelf cut so that the belly side has a slight drop to it, then the shelf peaks near center, and drops away quickly on the other side.
I assume this is to reduce contact time with the shelf, and thus reduce interference with arrow flight.
Is this design significantly better than say, a flat shelf riser? I have modified mine in the past and it seems to help, just wonder if there’s positive evidence of this somewhere.
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Nothing is quite as powerful as personal opinions, but I’ll take a run at this one, confessing up front my information is 2nd hand.
There was a bowyer who had a very informative website up with tips on tuning years ago. On there, he recommended a pivot point right above the deepest inset of the grip face. Claimed it improved “forgiveness” for the very reasons you suggest: less contact/ less contact TIME of arrow and riser.
Good shooters can hold that bow dead rock solid till the arrow hits. I tend to look for whatever “edge” I can get.
I always use a section of round toothpick (flattened on one side to glue on shelf) to create a small pivot point straight above the deepest inset be it RC or LB. Seems to help.
FWIW… there will be other opinions, surely!8)
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I think I know of whom you talk, seems he had a tour and tuning video as well.
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Sent you a PM… dont think this guy is who you think.
It was OL Adcock… before things went sour for him.
he had a compilation of historical tuning wisdom he put in one document on his then website.
I have a ms word copy I’d send to anyone who has email. Too large to go thru PM here…
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Got a couple emails from folks requesting the Word doc.
They have been sent.
Anymore I will respond as quickly as possible… I will be away from the computer mid to late next week though…so if you don’t email this weekend, it might be later in July when I get back…
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Not only should the shelf be radiused but the sight window should be also. Whether the shelf and riser have been contoured this way or if you do it by applying something like a toothpick doesn’t seem to matter. You just simply need to have that single clearly defined pressure point. You will achieve greater forgiveness if both the high point on the shelf and on the sight window coincide with each other and they are located above the throat of the grip. (Assuming a contoured grip.)
The single defined pressure point assists in initiating the oscillations of going through paradox in the arrow with no “funny stuff” happening. This is hard enough without throwing in weird arrow flight to boot.
I have no actual empirical testing to support this. HOWEVER, I have seen the results of others attempting to shoot flat shelves and sight windows. Really bad arrow flight for one thing. And the “evidence” shows up as interesting wear patterns in whatever they may be using as shelf material. You’ll see 2 or more wear points along the shelf and sight window. The arrows seem to be either be striking the shelf and riser multiple times during launch, or upon release they are not always being pressed against the riser in the same place on every shot.
I have seen some who accidentally created a “work around” by running extremely high or extremely low nock points. This gets the arrow positioned on the shelf when at draw such that the arrow launches from either the back edge or belly edge of the shelf, basically inadvertently creating that single defined pressure point. Such an arrangement is still very much less than optimal though in that it makes the bow more likely to still randomly screw with arrow flight due to spurious bow torque that the shooter may accidentally impart to the riser.
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A radiused shelf also reduces friction and smoothes feather passage.
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Yea I think after this season, this bow gets a remodel. I need to build a 1″ belt sander to accomplish this. Been wanting one anyway. The 1″ belt will give me more finite control.
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grumpy wrote: WOW!!! Another question I wasn’t smart enough to ask!!
Thats only because when you are like me, you don’t have ANY answers, so all the questions seem smart:D
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this one is tefflon…….home made on the wapiti……over the deapest part of the riser grip face…….silent….slick as os………shoots where you ask it too…….a little hard to glue on the leather plate and stick……but once you figure that out, it’s simply awesome………..
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burgess wrote: this one is tefflon…….home made on the wapiti……over the deapest part of the riser grip face…….silent….slick as (Teflon):Dos………shoots where you ask it too…….a little hard to glue on the leather plate and stick……but once you figure that out, it’s simply awesome………..
Pretty cool idea.
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