Rhinehart and glue on points.

[James Harvey]

#119462

Hey guys,

a few weeks ago I bought one of those rhinehart cube targets. Within a few minutes it had eaten 3 glue on field points off my Douglas Fir shafts.

Is this an indicator that I’ve done a poor job gluing my heads on or these kinds of targets not well suited to glue ons?

 

Ralph you shoot your wood shafts into a rhinehart deer target don’t you?

 

Jim

[wahoo]

#119463

I shot woodies for the longest time without issue then all of a sudden my points would come off. I switched to gorilla glue blue cap and have not had a problem anymore

[Ralph]

#119464

I’ve used ferrel-tite for years with very little problems. Occasionally yeah, sometimes because I didn’t do my part well, sometimes some things I shot into I was glad to get my arrow out of it, and I think sometimes maybe an arrow just had a lot of abuse…Sometimes a dead on hit on something harder than I should have been shooting at will pop a point off, perhaps a nock or both  (I’ve never hit a rock that I didn’t intend to hit 😎. Wanna buy a bridge?)

Now if you want my opinion on these newer low temp melt glues and wood arrows, I’m not having much luck.

I popped off a couple of blunts a week or so ago. I refurbished some arrows the other day and thinking that I maybe didn’t do my part right on those blunts, so I made special sure to install the field tips really well.  I do always clean new points inside with alcohol by the way and old points shouldn’t be a problem to reheat, re-glue and install.

Lo and behold, I went out back the next morning to test those arrows, shot 3 into my compressed bale and one point stayed in the straw. Damn….

So, and I’ll probably get lessons on  how to do something I’ve been doing for 40+ years, but I recommend ferrule-tite for wood arrows.

I’ll have to order some now since everything around here caters to carbon shafts, which the low temp glues are working well on by the way.

I don’t use any permanent type glues on arrow points cause my shafts are multipurpose, maybe stumping, maybe 3-D shooting, maybe hunting, whatever.

I’m particular about broadhead alignment also and a permanently glue on point won’t twist and align to good.  .

Just my thinkin,

Ralph

 

 

.

[Stephen Graf]

#119902

I’ve not had any trouble with points coming off with hot glue, if care is taken to make sure the points are clean.  I use a propane torch to heat the points up, so they get pretty hot and any oil burns out fast.

I’ve used the ferrel-tite hot melt, but I’ve also used the cheap glue sticks for hot melt glue guns.  I’ve not found much difference between them.

The one thing I’ve found that can affect fit is if the taper is too long for the point, meaning the end of the wood shaft touches the the bottom of the hole before the sides of the point come in contact with wood.

Before gluing your point on, you can do a fit check.  Push the point on the wood.  If it doesn’t stick pretty well that way, the taper is probably too long.  Cut 1/16″ off the end and try the fit check again.

[Ralph]

#120547

On this topic, I am trying something that I’ve never worried about before.  I’ve always just heated tips and made sure the glue that existed on the arrow I was refurbishing or replacing a point on was warmed and went on about my rat killing.

With the low heat melt glue I’m stuck with for the time being I am experimenting using my taper tool on an old arrow and getting all the old junk off of it.  So far on the three arrows I did this on and shoot 50-60 times yesterday, all stayed together.

So possibly a compatibility conflict?  Or simply , cleanliness counts??

[grumpy]

#123442

Gorilla glue, clean the arrow and the point with acetone.
Heat it up to change points (I use my propane camp stove) and pull off with vice grips. Remove old glue with acetone and scotch brite before gluing on new point.
Think you can get thru the day without hurting yourself?
Try not to break any tools.

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