Remove inserts from carbon shafts

[William Warren]

#2463

Guys,

I’m a relative newby when it comes to carbon shafts. Wood and aluminum have been my mainstays since the beginning. I have some 30″ carbons that fly well out of my 50# Super Shrew. My draw is about 27″ but now my curiosity is getting the best of me and I want to cut one a little bit at a time to see what happens with the tuning. Should I save myself some trouble and strip the fletching an pull the nock instead of the insert? I installed the insert with 5 min epoxy.

Duncan

[Vintage Archer]

#9836

Duncan wrote: Guys,

I’m a relative newby when it comes to carbon shafts. Wood and aluminum have been my mainstays since the beginning. I have some 30″ carbons that fly well out of my 50# Super Shrew. My draw is about 27″ but now my curiosity is getting the best of me and I want to cut one a little bit at a time to see what happens with the tuning. Should I save myself some trouble and strip the fletching an pull the nock instead of the insert? I installed the insert with 5 min epoxy.

Duncan

DUNCANYou guessed it it is a lot easier to cut from the nock end especially when bear shaft testing. Leav the point end firmly glued .Trying to cut from the front and replacing the inset with out gluing leads to a lot of points and inserts lost in the target.Breaking the glue joint each time you need to adjust the length of the arrow is a pain: The insert on carbon arrow are a press fit and easy to remove and replace:D

[Dan Jackowiak]

#9929

Here’s something you might want to try in the future. Instead of gluing the insert in use a plastic sandwich bag as a shim. Place the bag over the end of the shaft and insert the insert, it should go in fairly tight and quite often I have to push down on the shaft with the insert on solid ground to seat it. They won’t come out if using a bag or foam target, hard foam like a 3d target they might. Then you can just take a pair of pliers and pull them out by gripping the field point. Trim the shaft, reinsert and away you go.

[Stephen Graf]

#10210

I second what Joe says. And I would add that after I get things working well, I keep a master bare shaft handy. That way I can check how it flies from time to time. It tells me if I’ve changed my form, or something and moved on the bow. It also works as a handy template for making new arrows, when old ones are lost or broken…

[Vintage Archer]

#10473

2blade wrote: Here’s something you might want to try in the future. Instead of gluing the insert in use a plastic sandwich bag as a shim. Place the bag over the end of the shaft and insert the insert, it should go in fairly tight and quite often I have to push down on the shaft with the insert on solid ground to seat it. They won’t come out if using a bag or foam target, hard foam like a 3d target they might. Then you can just take a pair of pliers and pull them out by gripping the field point. Trim the shaft, reinsert and away you go.

2 BLADE That is a good tip,I use that on my knocks.Never thought about using it on the tip end. I use wood fiber bales for a target I bet I have a 100 dollars worth of inserts field points in them. Start digging to much tears up the bale. Probably stick to cutting the nock end while using this style target. 😆

[archer38]

#10785

would the bag trick not be a risk of splitting a carbon shaft ? Not sure, just a thought. The pressure of the fit could split the end ?

[David Coulter]

#10894

I use that yellowish hot glue and gently, gently, heat a field point screwed in until I can pull it. Works well. dwc

[Dan Jackowiak]

#11022

Archer38 wrote: would the bag trick not be a risk of splitting a carbon shaft ? Not sure, just a thought. The pressure of the fit could split the end ?

No, if its that hard to get the insert in go to a thinner plastic, maybe saran wrap. I have found that with 100 grain brass inserts I’m usually tearing the plastic off after they are half way down or it ends up to tight. 50’s are ok the shim the entire thing. You have to experiment a little because not all inside arrow diameters are the same. Goldtips for instance seem a little bigger than most.

Joe, I’ve never tried that type of target but it sounds like your right, cut the nock end on that one.

[William Warren]

#11906

Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to strip the fletch on one and cut from the nock end. It just seems easiest. I may find out they are fine like they are. BTW I’m shooting 145 gr feild tips and broadheads in these. Nothing else has tuned properly at the 30″ length.

[Col Mike]

#11942

Duncan

Not sure what carbons your using–my trad only 500’s with 300 gr. field point fly like darts as do the carbon ex.350 with same head–broad head is 225 tuffhead with 75 gr. adapter and they are 29″. Bow is shrew classic hunter. Just a thought–perhaps you might try heavy front end. But then it is fun experimenting.

Mike

[William Warren]

#11953

colmike wrote: Duncan

Not sure what carbons your using–my trad only 500’s with 300 gr. field point fly like darts as do the carbon ex.350 with same head–broad head is 225 tuffhead with 75 gr. adapter and they are 29″. Bow is shrew classic hunter. Just a thought–perhaps you might try heavy front end. But then it is fun experimenting.

Mike

They fly great with 145 gr on the 30″ shafts. I just wanted to see if I could shorten them and still get them to fly the same. 28-1/2″ would be as short as I would ever want with broadheads.

[Jason Wesbrock]

#12818

dwcphoto wrote: I use that yellowish hot glue and gently, gently, heat a field point screwed in until I can pull it. Works well. dwc

That’s the same way I glue mine.

[Author]

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