Rattler / Copperhead Skins

[jmsmithy]

#6943

Hello All….

playing with my bows in between my fly rods this time of year…:D

Recently purchased a new, unfinished longbow from eBay…. not expensive (less than $70 with the shipping), hickory made, completely unfinished as far as the cosmetics go. It’s approx 65″ ttt and draws approx 55#@28. I bought it this way for the express purpose of finishing myself. I have various critter hides (I collect / tan hides of anything I get throughout the seasons) to use as grip, perhaps even on the shelf as well if not too thick….

Anyway, where is a good place to get snake skins ❓ (can’t catch kill any Rattlers/copperheads legally in NY/NY as they protected).

In Addition, what type (brand etc) finish do you all like?

I’m thinking a stain and then oil finish of some sort…

As I said, this is my first attempt at this …

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated 😀

[fattony77]

#57755

I saw Mike Yancey’s booth at OJAM earlier this year & he had quite an assortment of snakeskins. I believe the name of his business is “Pine Hollow Longbows” (?) Check the pages of TBM for contact info. And of course 3 Rivers sells (both real and fake!) snakeskins for bow-backing. Hope that helps!

-Tony

[jmsmithy]

#57921

Hey Tony

Just checked out his site. Awesome skins it appears. Western Diamondback and Prairie Rattlers. Also says call for different skins. I’d love Copperhead if I can get them. I have no issue w 3 Rivers and have bought all kinds of stuff from them. I’ve heard, however, good and bad about their skins so thought I’d look around.

Thanks for the tip 😀

[Jeremy Holden]

#58876

I got my diamondback rattler skins from Ted Fry at Raptor archery. As far as finishing I’d maybe stay away from staining before applying the skin. Tru Oil and/or spray poly after the skins were applied. Good luck and be sure to share finished pics if you can.

-Jeremy

[Stephen Graf]

#59528

I second the pine hollow suggestion. I’ve bought skins from him several times, and they have all been good.

I don’t care for tru-oil over skins. I know it’s popular, but in my opinion the result is too soft and easily damaged.

I like the rub on polly the best these days for ease and toughness. you can get it from home depot or Lowes or where ever. And a little goes a long way.

I like to put 3 coats on the skins alone. Then add another three coats to the skins and the rest of the bow.

[jmsmithy]

#61026

Steve,

Do you stain the bow at all or just let the poly “pull out” the grain of the wood (hickory in this case):?:

The bow is completely unfinished, bare wood one piece (selfbow I assume)…

Barge cement to put the skins on???

[Stephen Graf]

#63353

If I had an all hickory bow, I might be tempted to put some stain to it. Hickory doesn’t take stain well, but giving it several coats, with lots of soak in time usually makes some good looking wood…

To glue the skin on I would use titebond II or III. It will work better than barge cement in the long run. Put some blue painters tape along the sides of the bow to keep the glue from going where you don’t want it to. Then apply glue to both the skin and the limb. Affix the skin to the bow and get the wrinkles and bubbles out. Wrap the thing real tight with an ace bandage to hold the skins on. Once dry, shave the excess skin off the sides with a sharp razer. Remove the tape. Then use the back side of a kitchen knife or a plastic knife to rub the scales off.

Then you are ready for final sanding and finishing.

[jmsmithy]

#10129

Steve Graf wrote: If I had an all hickory bow, I might be tempted to put some stain to it. Hickory doesn’t take stain well, but giving it several coats, with lots of soak in time usually makes some good looking wood…

To glue the skin on I would use titebond II or III. It will work better than barge cement in the long run. Put some blue painters tape along the sides of the bow to keep the glue from going where you don’t want it to. Then apply glue to both the skin and the limb. Affix the skin to the bow and get the wrinkles and bubbles out. Wrap the thing real tight with an ace bandage to hold the skins on. Once dry, shave the excess skin off the sides with a sharp razer. Remove the tape. Then use the back side of a kitchen knife or a plastic knife to rub the scales off.

Then you are ready for final sanding and finishing.

Thx Guys

Steve, some specifics….

Do I put skins on THEN Stain right over them? If so, I assume pull scales off etc first. OR do I put stain on, affix skins, then stain again…?

Also, I’ve been told yes AND no here…I want a good tough somewhat glossy finish so can I poly over everything once skins affixed and scaled and entire thing stained (Tru-Oil gun stock finish is what I’m leaning towards…:?::?:

Lot to digest…:roll:

BTW — http://www.americanheadhunters.com has copperhead skins, look to be in beautiful shape as well as all kinds of other “stuff” related to skins/bones/skulls of reptiles…:shock:

[William Warren]

#10147

What Steve said but I would stain the bow first then apply the skins.

I use a natural stain on my hickory bows of the outer hull of the walnut. These can be collected when the walnuts first drop and the hulls are green. Just crush the hull and in a matter of hours it will turn black and can be soaked in a can with water to get the stain. Just keep applying as Steve mentioned to get it darker. For really really rich color use the fresh green hull and rub directly on the wood. Wear gloves or you will stain your hands and it will not wash off.

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