pics of todays bareshaft tuning.

[Crystalshrimp]

#4042

Here I numbered my groups 1 thru 3, cutting 1/8 of an inch after each group. All shots at 12 yards bareshaft. Group 3, I believe was off because if my sloppiness unless 1/8 of an inch could actually make that much of a difference . I know they all kick a little left but some feathers should take care if that. Troy, any advice would help. I’m almost there.

[Crystalshrimp]

#26320

I will shoot the same bare arrow next week from group 3. If it is still shooting to the left of my Center line then its looking like 1/8 of and inch does have a major impact on arrow flight. This explains why Troy would cut the width of the blade at times. Amazing………If this is the case, then it looks like group 2 is the length I should pick and fletch. All shots are shot with my Bow in the Verticle position @ 12 yds with a Bareshaft. I started with a full lengt arrow and worked my way down 1/8″ @ a time. I’m used to shooting 29″ arrows. These arrows put me at 31 3/4 inches. (Beman ICS Camo Hunters, spine 340=10gpi) 360 up front.

[Bully26]

#26503

Me and CS I think have gotten our wires crossed on this issue. I worry about flight and he worries about centering his shot. Now the bareshaft is making some sense.

While bareshafting, can the flight also be cleaned up?
Thanx in advance.

[Crystalshrimp]

#26610

i think that fletching with straighten this arrow out. I’ll be testing until this is resolved. 2 arrows at a time. Confidence in my gear is about 95% of the shot in my eyes. The last 5% is up to me.

[Troy Breeding]

#26925

CS,

I think you’ve got the right idea with trying those shafts again.

I’d suggest trying group 2 and 3. Start at the 12 yd mark, then back up to say 16yds and then to 20yds. You should see a difference at the longer yardage. If they hold to the same impact then fletch both sets of shafts and shoot. I also suggest (Ed may disagree with this) once you fletch, shooting with your normal form of shooting. If you normally cant, holding the vertical can cause you to shoot slightly to the left. Also if you normally cant, it takes a bucket load of discipline to shoot holding the bow vertical.

In my thread, remember I had a tail left problem. After acouple of super minor cuts my shaft made a big improvement in shooting straight. From your picks it looks like you have basically tail left kick, not enough vertical to be concerned with.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#26941

Forgot to also say, I like the idea of the string infront of the paper. Very easy to see.

Troy

[Crystalshrimp]

#27117

Troy Breeding wrote: CS,

From your picks it looks like you have basically tail left kick, not enough vertical to be concerned with.

Troy

@ 20 yards group 3 whas hitting about 3 to 4 inches to the right of my target with a bareshaft. I’ll be making microcuts to tune this one out. So what you are saying is that I should be able to see a perfect little hole with this bareshaft once its tuned. So perfect flight is attainable with a bareshaft? I shouldnt have to rely on fletching to get this perfect flight, fletching will only stabilize my arrow quicker and get it out of it paradox quicker.

[Troy Breeding]

#27157

CS,

Lets just say that “if” you can get that perfect bullet hole then yes, fletching will only have to stabilize the shaft and rotate the broadhead. However, getting that bullethole will is tough.:shock: I thought I had my shafts clean enough to punch bulletholes until I fletched.:cry: It’s amazing what one can miss when you put something on the tail of a shaft that will allow you to see everything. I know they say fletching is supposed to stiffen the shafts dynamic spine. I’m starting to believe it will, but not right off the bat. Thats where I was seeing the kick after fletching. Once the arrow was down range it would straighten up and fly clean. Shooting through paper may be that little tick that will show everything. Still, I like to tinker and paper would cause me to loose out on tinker time.:D

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#27165

Bully,

To try and answer your question about cleaning up the shot…

Yes, that’s what bearshafting is used for. If your shafts are tuned properly then your shots with the fletched arrow will be right on.

In my thread you can see what bareshafting produced with the two low spine shafts I had. In the past I’ve dumped my 340 shafts due to them getting too short for my likeings when using broadheads. I guess you can say just for giggles and fits I wanted to see if I could make them usable. Of the two shafts one will work, the other want. I’m hoping that the 10 remaining stiffer shafts will work alot better.

Troy

[jaytbuzzard]

#27520

Troy, when you say stiffer shafts, do you mean the spline number would go up or down? I’m going to start bareshafting some Beman ICS Hunter 400’s. I’ll be shooting about 250 grains up front. Thanks.

[Crystalshrimp]

#27550

jaytbuzzard wrote: Troy, when you say stiffer shafts, do you mean the spline number would go up or down? I’m going to start bareshafting some Beman ICS Hunter 400’s. I’ll be shooting about 250 grains up front. Thanks.

I think, and correct me if im wrong Troy. The goal here is to to find the lightest arrow possible in order to boost our FOC and tune it to perfection. ( an arrow with a minimum weight of 650 total grains) I have a beman 500 tuned with a 21% FOC that is flying like a dart and is tuned out perfectly with 250 up front. Point being I’m looking for an UEFOC Arrow to hunt very large game (Texas Nilgai). That is why I’m spending weeks tuning these bad boys. To answer your question Jay, The dynamic spine gets stiffer with every cut you make to the shaft whether you shoot a 500 or a 300 spined arrow. The more weight you add up front to gain FOC, you weaken the shaft. With Troys advice i started with my insert plus the field point of equal weight of my BH and a full length shaft and started tuning from there. Document you progress till you get what you want. I hope I helped an did not twist things up for you. Troy has been one busy bee keeping up with all of our tuning and giving us tips as we go along. Troy thanks again………..

[Crystalshrimp]

#27556

Troy Breeding wrote: Bully,

In the past I’ve dumped my 340 shafts due to them getting too short for my likeings when using broadheads. Troy

I’m fortunate in that I only have a 27″ DL. I’m able to cut what i need without running out of shaft……..lucky me

[Troy Breeding]

#27600

CS, your getting the hang of this now.

I wish at times I had a shorter draw. Then I think about it a little and remember the main reason I like my 29-29.5″ draw. I can get the same results as you and only have to shoot 80% of your bow weight.:lol:

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#27605

jaytbuzzard wrote: Troy, when you say stiffer shafts, do you mean the spline number would go up or down? I’m going to start bareshafting some Beman ICS Hunter 400’s. I’ll be shooting about 250 grains up front. Thanks.

The lower the number (i.e. 500, 400, 340, 300) the stiffer the spine. Like CS stated, to get those UEFOC arrows you want the lightest grain per inch shaft you can get. It’s not to say you will need 300 spine/deflection shafts either. You draw length will be the main factor on that to a certain point. If you want anything over 35% I almost bet the spine requirement will call for the stiffest shaft out there.

Troy

[jaytbuzzard]

#27617

I have a 27″ draw length. I’ll have plenty of shaft to work with I guess. The Beman’s are 8.4 gpi. I will start bareshaft testing soon. The only problem I have right now is that deer season started yesterday and I’ve heard that I’ll have to change my nock height due to the increase in point weight and I don’t want to mess with my hunting setup.

[Troy Breeding]

#28082

jaytbuzzard wrote: I have a 27″ draw length. I’ll have plenty of shaft to work with I guess. The Beman’s are 8.4 gpi. I will start bareshaft testing soon. The only problem I have right now is that deer season started yesterday and I’ve heard that I’ll have to change my nock height due to the increase in point weight and I don’t want to mess with my hunting setup.

Having to change your nocking point isn’t always true. I like to start with a fairly level shaft, but wether you have to do it or not will be found out when you do your setup.

Afew questions, are you currently shooting 400 shafts? If so what point weight are you using? What length are you using?

Changing arrows after the start of your bowseason isn’t that big of a deal unless your one of those that like to reach out and touch someone. I really can’t see enough difference my gap between my old 525gr arrows and my new hunting 700gr arrows to cause me alot of time and trouble in adjusting to them. Until I pass 25yds my gap is approx. the same. High EFOC and UEFOC arrows tend to have a fairly flat trajectory at normal hunting yardage due to all the extra weight being in the point rather than along the length of the shaft.

Troy

[Jason Wesbrock]

#28252

Troy Breeding wrote: [quote=jaytbuzzard]Troy, when you say stiffer shafts, do you mean the spline number would go up or down? I’m going to start bareshafting some Beman ICS Hunter 400’s. I’ll be shooting about 250 grains up front. Thanks.

The lower the number (i.e. 500, 400, 340, 300) the stiffer the spine. Troy

Just one minor point for the sake of clarification. Beman puts the actual deflection on their shafts (a 500 has a .500 deflection, 400s are .400 and so on). So for Bemans, the lower the number the stiffer that shaft. But this doesn’t hold true for all manufacturers.

Gold Tip, for example, uses a different numbering system. Their 3555 shafts spine .500, 5575s are .400, and 7595s are .340. So for Gold Tips, the higher the number the stiffer the shaft. That’s why it’s generally a good idea to check the manufacturer’s online specifications charts for actual deflection when comparing one company’s shafts to another.

[Troy Breeding]

#28331

J.Wesbrock wrote: [quote=Troy Breeding][quote=jaytbuzzard]Troy, when you say stiffer shafts, do you mean the spline number would go up or down? I’m going to start bareshafting some Beman ICS Hunter 400’s. I’ll be shooting about 250 grains up front. Thanks.

The lower the number (i.e. 500, 400, 340, 300) the stiffer the spine. Troy

Just one minor point for the sake of clarification. Beman puts the actual deflection on their shafts (a 500 has a .500 deflection, 400s are .400 and so on). So for Bemans, the lower the number the stiffer that shaft. But this doesn’t hold true for all manufacturers.

Gold Tip, for example, uses a different numbering system. Their 3555 shafts spine .500, 5575s are .400, and 7595s are .340. So for Gold Tips, the higher the number the stiffer the shaft. That’s why it’s generally a good idea to check the manufacturer’s online specifications charts for actual deflection when comparing one company’s shafts to another.

Good thing to point out. Sorry for failing to note that. I guess it’s one of those things I often overlook since I don’t shoot GT shafting

Troy

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