Home › Forums › Friends of FOC › Now I'm totally encouraged along with the good, bad, and ugly
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Yep, third installment on just one subject.
Anyway, today I’m totally encouraged with my findings.
I’ll start with the ugly.
As you know I had two shafts in my latest order that came in way underspined. After yesterday I finally had one of them shooting fine, yet the other still had a kick. Well, today I deside to see what it would take to make that one fly correct. In short, I had to make four more 1/16″ cuts to get it flying right. These two will do for practice, but not for broadheads.
Now for the bad.
Last night I desided to install the brass inserts along with the exterinal footing to the remaining shafts. So I pull out 10 inserts, 10 footings and the shafts. As I was working through them I noticed I had more inserts and footings than shafts. After double checking I found that there was only 11 shafts in the pack.
Today I called the place I ordered the shafts from and ask if there was anything that could be done about this. They quickly stated that it wasn’t a problem and even though it might take afew days they would get one headed my way. Now thats what I call service.
Anyway after talking to the lady at the superstore I desided to call Victory in reguards to the two being underspined. All I wanted to know was if this was one of those “oh s#!#$” or if they were going to try and pass it off as the norm. In short their tech person seemed to be very upset about it. As he stated “It’s not the norm for us to let something like this happen and if I still had the package lable and the weight sticker it would tell him alot”.
After giving all the info from the pack I told him I really wasn’t trying to get anyone in trouble, I was just checking to see if they held to their posted spine and if so what was the tolerance range. As he put it “the norm is +/- .010 of the stated spine, two grains in weight, and no more than the listed straightness”. He also stated that since they do match in weight the weight machine may have very well let acouple of shafts slip into the wrong batch since there will be 340 shafts that will weigh the same as some of the 300 shafts.
Now not the last or the least, the Good.
As a effert to resolve the problem he wasn’t going to just shove it under the rug and wanted to send me a half dozen shafts in the 300 spine and same weight of the ones I have. I told him it wasn’t expecting anything in return since I knew screw ups do happen when people are involved. None the less he wouldn’t have anything to do with it and almost demanded my address. Now, thats what I call “good”.
To top all this, I started testing the final 9 shafts this morning. It only took one 1/8″ cut and two 1/16″ cuts to make these puppies fly clean and straight while bareshafting. Afterwards, I fletched two of them and they fly super…….
Troy
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Awesome stuff and great customer service. All in all sounds like a pretty good day.
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Please allow me to jump in here on tuning. I finally had a chance to shoot again after a busy weekend. I trimmed a little more and was getting the bare shaft and the arrow to come into center fairly well. I decided to fletch the second arrow and see what they would do together. Not too bad. They seem to go a little high regularly, but not always.
Funny thing, one more of those duh moments. I thought I was tuning with 205 grains (200 grain head, plus a brass ring), since that’s what my broadheads would weigh in at. I weighed one of the heads and to my surprise it said 230! I had opened the 225 grain bag of heads by mistake. I just hate wearing reading glasses….
So after I got done kicking myself, I put on a 205 grainer and shot a few. So darn little difference, I’m going to make up a bare shaft for one of those to see how it flies.
I’d leave it all alone, but 100 grain steel inserts are all on back order and my broadheads will only be 205s. -
Ed ask my to document alittle of my tuning with pics so I did just that.
I’ve got impact pics of the first shots I took before cutting anything off the shafts. There’s somesort of problem with our computer and when I sent them from my phone to the computer it want show the pics in the e-mail.
I’ve also got pics from this morning where I shot the tuned shafts into a fairly unshot part of my target to show how straight they end up.
As well I have acouple of pics that show a bareshaft and a fletched arrow in the target for comparison. One is 20yds and the other 30yds.
Soon as I can figure out how to get everything to work I’ll post the pics for everyone to see.
Wish I had someone to video a shot or two. That way I could show everyone that thinks there is no way a bareshaft will fly clean the results of proper bareshaft tuning.
Troy
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dwcphoto wrote: Please allow me to jump in here on tuning. I finally had a chance to shoot again after a busy weekend. I trimmed a little more and was getting the bare shaft and the arrow to come into center fairly well. I decided to fletch the second arrow and see what they would do together. Not too bad. They seem to go a little high regularly, but not always.
Funny thing, one more of those duh moments. I thought I was tuning with 205 grains (200 grain head, plus a brass ring), since that’s what my broadheads would weigh in at. I weighed one of the heads and to my surprise it said 230! I had opened the 225 grain bag of heads by mistake. I just hate wearing reading glasses….
So after I got done kicking myself, I put on a 205 grainer and shot a few. So darn little difference, I’m going to make up a bare shaft for one of those to see how it flies.
I’d leave it all alone, but 100 grain steel inserts are all on back order and my broadheads will only be 205s.David,
Don’t feel like the lome stranger for making a minor mistake.:shock:
Remember, I fletched rw feathers with a left wing jig….:roll:Troy
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Yep. At least they seem to fly pretty much the same. When I first got my longbow I shot the arrows I already used with my recurve and they flew really well. For fun, I put on a 75 gr steel insert to see what would happen and the flew even better, although the first one had been hitting the mark quite well. Leon Stewart, the bowyer, said it’s due to correct tillering of the bow that I could get away with a wide range of point weights. Someone else remarked, maybe you, Troy, that the length of the shaft is more critical than the point weight once you get it tuned. Odd, but perhaps true.
For fun, I mounted a judo onto one of the 75 gr steel adapters today and they flew quite well into my pile of wood chips. I went back in and weighed the judos and found that they weighed 147 gr instead of 135.
Both field points, 200 and 225 are going straight into the foam block, with no noticeable tilt on way or other. Penetration is about a foot from about 12 yards.
I’m staying fairly close, especially with the bare shaft, as my accuracy get inconsistent when I go longer. -
Not sure if it was me that made the statement, but it is true that adjusting the length of the shaft can make a change in how a shaft flys quicker than point weight. If the shafts is in line with what you need, I’ve managed to see big changes in how a shaft flys by as little as 1/16″. However, if the shaft is not in the correct range (as with the 340’s that were in my pack of Victory shafts) then you might have to cut quite a bit to get it right.
Troy
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ozzyshane wrote: Troy how do you find the victory shalfs ive been looking into getting some over here in Australia which one did you get Thnaks Shane
After calling Victory with my concerns, I’d say you can buy them direct from Victory. The teck ask if I had a question and wanted to purchase shafts. When I told him I already had the shafts and just needed some info, he was more than happy to help.
The shafts are the Victory VMaxx HV. I ordered them in the 300 size.
I was shocked when I found the two off spine shafts in the pack, but I’m currently happy with their customer service. That is if they follow through with their end.
As for the shafts???? The 9 that I got in the correst spine have been a joy to setup. They tuned very quickly and bareshafted almost like they had fletching with only afew minor cuts. The finished arrow has 32.46% UEFOC.
Troy
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Opps,,, forgot to say I ordered mine from Bowhunterssuperstore.com
Troy
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Troy thanks for the info that is where i got a price on them they are a geat price for a lite arrow what did your finished shaft come out at …
I saw a pic of one of your bows mate they look great you should post a pic of your rig love to see a few more pics of your work…
I shoot a very sim weight and DL to you how much over centre shot did you have to go im about 1/8 over and seems to get a 300 spine working Thanks Shane
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Shane,
When I built the bow I cut the sight window 3/16″ past center. To get the shafts to shoot and allow me to get the UEFOC I had to build out my sight window to 1/8″ before center then put on my velcro strike plate. I havn’t really checked it, but I think with everything I’m pretty close to 3/16″ before center.
Ed talked me into doing this. I tried several times to get 300 spine/deflection shafts to work, but they kept coming up weak long before I would get to UEFOC.
I’ll be taking more pics of it as well as the sight window tomarrow. I’ll post them on this thread as well as the show your setup for fall thread.
Troy
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Here you go Shane, afew pics of my bow. I got my start as did many othere by using a Bingham Kit. After building several bows I changed the overall riser design to one of my own, but did keep the angle of the limb beds used by Bingham. You will also see in one pick of how much I had to build out the sight window. I didn’t do anything fancy with the limbs since I will be putting on a set of snake skins one day.
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Pushing this one up also.
Troy
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