Newest problem while tuning

[Troy Breeding]

#5401

Today I found myself dealing with something that I never have before.:shock:

I’ve got the recurve tuned, arrows made and all is ready to go come Saturday morning or when I’m ready to head to the woods.:D

Anyway, I’ve got an Adcock ACS CX three piece longbow I’ve never hunted with. I’ve used it at tournaments and really like the way it shoots. Only problem is when I use it at tournaments I normally shoot MXF Classic arrows. Today I decided I was going to use it as my backup bow for hunting. I also wanted to get some shafts with high FOC shooting out of it.

Knowing that the sight window was cut well beyond center meant it would have to be built out to handle the high FOC arrows. After pulling the velcro off the sight window I made my build up with afew pieces of leather, glued it in place and reinstalled the velcro.

I started out trying the same shafts I use in my recurve. Both bows are about the same weight and figured they might work and it would save me a bunch of time working up a new set of shafts.:roll:

After making afew shots it was apparent that the shafts were too stiff.:( Guess I built a thicker pad than I thought. Anyway, I had bought a six pack of Beman Speed shafts in 340 and decided to give them a try.:wink:

It only took afew minutes to glue in the brass inserts. I elected to hold on putting on footings for the time being. I wanted to see if these shafts were weak or stiff before going any futher.:?

When I took my first shot with these shafts I couldn’t believe what I saw. The shaft hit right in the square of paper but it looked like the thing tried to turn a head over heels flip. The tail high kick was unreal.

Knowing that I had checked everything after adding the pad had me scratching my head.:? The nocking point on the string was set at my normal 3/8″ above level. This meant lowering the nocking point to bring the tail down on the shaft would only cause more problems.

I made several more shots just to make sure it was something in the setup and not in my release. Every shot had the same results.

This really had me stumped:?…… Oh well, when all else fail best thing to do is contact the man….:wink:

It only took afew seconds to send Ed a note asking if he had ever had a prblem like this….

Haaa!:lol: After reading his reply I had finally found something he couldn’t answer…..:wink:

Now, let me backup afew minutes. Before getting his reply I remembered I hadn’t bought my hunting lic. and knowing that if I didn’t Saturday would be the day that ol’ mossy hornes walked into my backyard. While driving to town something finally rebooted my ol’ hair covered computer.:roll: It didn’t make since, but if Ed hadn’t made a reply to my question before I got home I was going to give it a try.

That thought was simple, but really didn’t make since. Could it be that I was getting kick off the shelf caused the nocking being too low? Naaaaaaa, but it wasn’t going to hurt to try.

Anyway, after reading Ed’s reply I decide to just set the shaft on top of the nocking point before moving it.

BINGO!!!! First shot with the shaft on top of the nocking point sent the shaft level into the target with only a tail left kick and impact about two inches to the right.

I made several more shots with the same results. This is nothing to worry with now. The rest of the tuning will be easy.

After sending Ed another note telling of the results his reply said it all.

“Guess you can say bows are like guns, just because one load will shoot well in one gun doesn’t mean the same load will work in every gun”

Normally I set my nocking point on the string to 3/8″ above level for carbon shafts. I shoot split finger and until now it’s worked fine with all my bows. Today I found that doesn’t work everytime.

Troy

[Raymond Coffman]

#40471

Troy – Thanks for all your tuning posts!
Tradbow – but especially tuning is always an adventure — at least for me as I shoot a lot of diff – weight bows. Nice to know; even the senior guys have to sort one out, now and again – I of course have to do this all the time!!haha — probably payment for past “indiscretions” —
Please keep it up! Always Educational for me ————
Scout

[Troy Breeding]

#40523

Scout,

This was one of those problems I havn’t run into in years. The last time I had a bow with anything close to this had to be back in the mid 90’s. It was a longbow that I had picked up on trade. No name or no bow length was wrote on the bow, just 66#.

At first I thought it was a Hill bow. After doing alittle checking I found that the lower limb was out of tiller. I did what I could to bring it back into tiller, but was only able to take out about half. To get this bow to bareshaft I had to raise the nocking point to 3/4″ above.

I checked my ACS and it was in perfect tiller. I even pulled it on the rack to see if it would change tiller while being drawn. Nothing……

I can’t tell you why this bow requires such a high nocking point with the high FOC arrows. It was shooting fine with 3/8″ above when using the MFX Classic and 175gr points.

Troy

[Raymond Coffman]

#40549

Troy
To quote an old friend of mine — ” they are all the same , but a little different”
It has been a long time since I shot a hill bow —
I had a couple of schultz bows [ which i preferred]I left the trad longbow and have gone to the RD variant, which as I get older I find more pleasant and easier to shoot [Centaur&shrews]
some bows are easy {to tune}- most are a little more involved — and the rest are real tricky — at least for me –
I am afraid – I am like DR Ashby — my release is my nemesis
when on, it is great – A continous endeavor
thanks for your help
PS — tillering is beyond my ken — at least for now – interesting to see how you solved the problem.
Scout

[Troy Breeding]

#42828

Well, finished tuning the shafts today. Only took approx and hour to get them shooting clean. After fletching they fly exactly as I expected.

Finished arrow was 30-1/4″ string grove to end of insert. I did add 3″ of 2117 footing the other night.

Final FOC 31.4% with brass insert, footing, 315gr broadhead and three A&A fletchings.

Troy

[Steve Sr.]

#43176

Troy Breeding wrote: Well, finished tuning the shafts today. Only took approx and hour to get them shooting clean. After fletching they fly exactly as I expected.

Finished arrow was 30-1/4″ string grove to end of insert. I did add 3″ of 2117 footing the other night.

Final FOC 31.4% with brass insert, footing, 315gr broadhead and three A&A fletchings.
Troy

In the venacular of my 22 year old……….”DUDE!!!”

and in my own generation’s “That should be a whiz bang setup!”

😯

You’re gonna mess around and “make me” get carbons again. LOL

(eh…..maybe not. Old. in my own rut? lol)

Neat stuff, Troy and thanks for sharing.

God Bless
Steve Sr.

(forcast for Oct first, first day of season….”mostly sunny 43 degrees previous night, NNE wind of 9mph, high of 60″……..oh yeah……I took a vacation day. 😀 )

[Raymond Coffman]

#43444

Troy —
What is your draw ? and does it matter to you, how long the arrow ends up past it [ other than usual 1″ or so for clearence?
Scout.

[Troy Breeding]

#43511

Scout,

With my recurve I draw 29+”. With this bow I’m dead on 29″. Difference in the depth of the grip.

To me arrow length doesn’t matter as long as I have atleast 1″ past my draw to prevent pulling a broadhead into my fingers. Already have several scares on my fingers from too short of an arrow and don’t want any more.

As a matter of fact. In most cases I’ve found that the longer arrow seem to be a tad bit easier to stabilize and a bit more forgiving.

Troy

[Raymond Coffman]

#43522

Troy –
Got it — in the past I have tried to get my arrows too close to 28 [ I draw 27] when in reality it doesn’t matter as you say, if a bit long. Usually end up that way anyhow–after tuning.
Thanks
Scout

[Troy Breeding]

#26268

This one should cover all the threads I need to push up.

Troy

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