Newbie advice???

[Harold Burke]

#133571

So, like many entering traditional archery, I purchased a Samick Sage. i feel like the 50# limbs are a little too much at my 30″ draw length, not too bad as I can shoot it decent but I feel like I need to drop down to build my form. I have a couple questions:

Should I purchase another entire Sage (right at $120) and have the two complete set ups or just buy the spare limbs for $60? Eventually I will get either a Bob Lee or a Stalker Stick Bow, maybe something else but definitely a high(er) end take down recurve or reflex/deflex.

I have seen plenty of people say that the Sage is a fine bow and that hunting with it is just fine. What say you? After all you guys are what I would consider the experts on traditional.  I realize that putting effective arrows on target is the most important thing and slightly behind that is power to get penetration. If I can place arrows on target with the Sage at 50# it seems to me that it should do the trick for the time being.

Thanks for the help and information, Ed

[smiley1]

#133574

<p style=”text-align: center;”>I am far from an expert but I think you are correct in wanting to shoot a lighter weight to achieve proper form. You will gain about 2 1/2 – 3 # of weight per inch over 28″with your Sage. I would recommend getting 40# limbs (no need to purchase the whole bow) as you will still be pulling 45-46# at 30″. I would also wait to purchase a custom bow. Try to go to a traditional shoot with vendors so you can try multiple bows. You just may find out you prefer a certain grip style or even a hybrid or a longbow. Good luck and enjoy.</p>

[rgrist]

#133586

I would recommend going with the Journey limbs with a 30″ draw length. I ordered the 64″ limbs several months ago and they are really smooth to draw ( Lancaster $50 ). Maybe some are still available, as the Journey was discontinued quite awhile ago. If not you can go with the Spider XL limbs which are about the same.

FYI: The Sage/Journey shoots every bit as good as the $600 + bows and I don’t need to be concerned as much with the baggage handlers  when flying.

Also, I reshaped the Sage riser with a rasp and sandpaper to eliminate the framing lumber look which everyone complains about. Really improved the overall appearance  of the bow. Now to add the Bacote limbsations and I be stylin’.

[Raymond Coffman]

#133594

Harold Burke

I would recommend another set of limbs (slightly lighter at your draw) and just keep working on form and the joy of flinging arrows . Any weight around 50lbs will take any game in the lower 48.

Try to make one of the shoots or an expo ( or friends) and try different bows  to get an idea of what you might like for a future purchase.  But for now, I would just work on technique—- and have fun

Happy Arrows

Scout

[don walkup]

#133619

get the extra limbs…

at 40# (as an example) you are very rarely ‘underbowed’. you may have to get another set of arrows but the lower poundage is much easier to shoot and makes it easier to perfect your form.

[Harold Burke]

#133977

So I ended up getting 35# limbs since they were in stock and the 40# weren’t. So I spoke to them at 3 Rivers and they recommended a 500 spine, 31.5″ (my draw turns out to be 29.9″ and not 30″) with around 150 grain point. He said to play around with the point weight to tune it to my bow and shooting style. So, what do you guys think, sounds right? I thought maybe go a little stiffer and stay at 32″ and go a tad heavier tip, a little more FOC won’t hurt right?

I was thinking also, that if I kept the arrow like suggested from 3 Rivers I can build the arrows for the 50# limbs at the same GPP as the 35# limbs and be pretty close to the same point on yardage? I’mm new to the traditional and love the intricacies of the tuning and the simplicity of it all.

[Raymond Coffman]

#133990

Harold Burke

Yes. Mostly. You will need to shoot them to see. Good starting point. Tune them to the weight limb you are going to shoot.

I would order a test kit ( arrows ) from 3 rivers. This allows you to try different spines / lengths / point weights to see what your bow likes best. When your starting ( actually always good) out this can be very beneficial. I now of course have a lot of different shaft types to experiment with but – still maintain my test kits . Just because the bow says its a certain weight – that isn’t always exact! It is a ball park figure. your shooting style can also effect the outcome.

But a tuned bow/ arrow is a joy forever —–some bows this is easy, others can take awhile. All part of the traditional journey

If you don’t already have it, I would recommend the traditional bowhunters handbook by TJ Conrads — I carry one in my archery war bag.

Scout

 

 

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