New heavyweight Tuffhead is here

[David Petersen]

#6779

When I returned from AZ yesterday I found in the mail box my pre-order of a half-dozen spankin’-new Tuffhead 300-grain glue-ons, complete with matching field points. Other than a slight color difference (I’d like to see a bolder color difference but that’s small fish) the 300s look identical to the 225s on first glance. Rather than making the head bigger to gain more weight, as other makers have done, Joe has simply made the steel thicker, so the 3:1 MA remains intact and the thicker steel creates a wider single-bevel shelf for even more bone-splitting torque and overall strength. Now, if I can find a good strong light wood shaft around 350-400, maybe at last I can get good FOC with a wood arrow. Something new to play with! You can check out both Tuffheads at http://www.tuffhead.com. Dave

[Troy Breeding]

#54871

Dave,

Been using the TH 300 fieldpoints for a few weeks now. It took them for me to get enough weight forward to make the 40% arrow. Can’t wait to see the broadheads.

Troy

[David Petersen]

#55931

Troy — You using those 300 field points with screw-in adapters, or glued onto wood? I have some surewood shafts I can’t wait to try them on. The search is now on for a very light strong wood in 11/32 in hopes the 300 grain points will put me over 20% FOC with wood. Notwithstanding all the conveniences of carbon shafts and screw-in heads, the only reason I temporarily left wood was to get EFOC. I’m not sure 300 will do it, but if the shaft is light enough, and maybe a couple inches over length, it could happen. I welcome suggestions for light strong woods, so long as it’s not POC. I’ll start testing and playing with them as soon as my failed flying lesson wounds heal up. 🙄

[Troy Breeding]

#55947

Dave,

I’m using them with one of my 275gr homemade adpts. It took the heavy points to get the weight up front I needed to make the “Airhammer” 40.4% UEFOC arrow.

As for wood shafting you might want to give Hildebrand Arrow Shafts a call. Those sitka Spruce shafts he makes are supposed to be pretty light.

I’ve heard of several people getting in the mid to high 20’s by using heavy Bh’s and those Woodie Wights. With the woodie weight in 200grs and Joe’s 300gr head you will be pushing 500grs up front.

Troy

[Vintage Archer]

#56627

Dave, I know Dr. Ashby has talked about using Forgewood shafts in the past. I believe he was able to attain FOC in the 20% range. I know nothing about Forgewod shafts other than that. May be you already have used them or someone here has had experience with them.

THE FUN BEGINES:D

[David Petersen]

#56678

Joe – Yes, I have a dozen, aka Douglas fir. But they’re pretty heavy since I asked the supplier to select the heaviest dozen he could match up. Maybe I can find some lighter. Love that wood — hard and straight and tough, superior to POC in every way except aroma, IMHO

[Ed Ashby]

#56732

Here’s just a bit of Forgewood background, for those too young to remember the Forgewood shafts.

The Forgewood, originally made with compressed cedar by Bill Sweetland, was the first ‘modern’, parallel arrow shaft to be produced with a built-in weight forward of center design. The Forgewoods were “progressively compressed”. They started with a square cross-section, tapering blank, which was then compressed into a parallel-sided blank, which was then turned to a 5/16″ diameter shaft. The result was a wood shaft that was compressed at a 3 to 1 ratio on one end and a 1.6 ratio on the other. Thus the heavier, more compressed forward end of the shaft was significantly heavier than the rear section. Simply adding a heavy point, such as the 190 Grizzly, brought this wood arrow into the EFOC range.

For many years the Forgewood was my favorite arrow shaft and, though I’ve not added them up, I first started using Forgewoods in the early 60’s and it is highly probable that I’ve killed more big game with that arrow shaft than any other. I still have a few of those original Sweetland Forgewoods, as well as a few dozen of the newer version which, as Dave notes, were made from different woods. Those newer Forgewoods I have are from Mountain Hemlock. As an aside, those newer Forgewood shaft have slightly less ‘built in FOC’ than do the original, compressed cedar Forgewoods.

Ed

[Dan Sweeney]

#57028

Sitka Spruce. Both lighter and stronger than POS…I mean POC. Hildebrand.

Or, rivercane. Heavy, but built-in FOC and very strong.

[David Petersen]

#57695

Yes, it’s time I give Sitka Spruce a try, thanks.

[Fletcher]

#58189

Dave, what spine deflection do you think you will need for those 300 gr Tuffheads?

Forgewoods are great shafts, but being compressed, they are pretty heavy, too.

I like the sitka spruce, but they carry less spine than does fir and shafts over about 70 lb spine are going to be 23/64.

[Troy Breeding]

#58659

Fletcher,

You are very correct. I had forgot that in heavier spines the sitka spruce will be 23/64″.

Although this in my book will benifit Dave. I’m sure he will be using a tapered shaft in his quest. Reducing from 23/64″ to 5/16″ will increase the natural FOC on the shaft.

Troy

[David Petersen]

#58773

Rick and Troy (and welcome back, Rick!) — I have vowed to avoid 23/64 shafts forevermore. My reasons may suck — for one thing they expand the rubber grips in my bow quivert to the point that smaller shafts rattle around, and too, many glue-on heads are sized for 11/32. Anyhow and no matter, 23/64 are out for me. My bows are a 50# osage selfbow that pulls 55# on my scale, a 52# Bear K-Mag, and primarily, first and foremost, a #53 Shrew Classic Hunter (short r/d longbow). I draw 28″ and like arrows measuring 29.5″ nock to back of head, and the Tuffheads will glue on deep since they’re sized to take 23/64 and smaller with a very long ferule. I’m guessing a starting point of around 65# spine in shafts that weigh 350-400, if that’s possible. Rick — are you actively back in the arrowsmithing trade? Sure hope so. Dave

[Troy Breeding]

#58833

Dave,

Before giving up on SS I’d suggest atleast giving Hildebrand a call. He might have the spine you need in 11/32″.

Troy

[Fletcher]

#58862

Fir varies a lot in weight and there are always some lighter ones. I’ve never tuned for a 300 gr broadhead, so I’m in new territory here. I was thinking the Shrew was cut to center. Figuring that, a 29.5″ BOP and a 200 gr head I get 75+. I don’t know how much to add for 300 gr, but I have to figure you will be around 85 at least. I may have to make up a 300 gr field point and see what it takes. 400 gr in an 85 spine is gonna be pretty rare, but it would definitely put you over 20%.

Still working the new 40 hr+ gig, so arrow building is pretty slow. I like doing it but it doesn’t do well at paying the bills.

[Troy Breeding]

#58962

Fletcher,

Totally understand about making bills go in the clear when fletching arrows. When I was in business I had to work an average of 70 to 80 hours a week just building arrows to see that my bills were paid.

Another shaft that might make the grade in 11/32″ would be lodge pole pine. I’ve had afew that went up into the high 70’s. Another shaft material that can produce high spines is,,,,, shoot can’t think of the name of it, but it stinks like heck when you sand them. Yellow something..

Troy

[David Petersen]

#59113

Will do re Hildebrand, Troy; thanks.

Rick — I’m happy to send you a 300 grain field point if you have time to mess with it. You know how it is when you get hot for a new toy … the rush is on. 😆

[kingwouldbe]

#59137

300 success, I like these even better than Joe’s 225, I took the picks with my phone as my battery’s where dead and I had no extras.

15 yard shot, 740 grain arrow with 35.07% efoc out of 60lb longbow, jumped through it like it wasn’t there

[Troy Breeding]

#59150

Really nice stack of porkchops there David.

Troy

[kingwouldbe]

#59153

This is a Boar I shot before the battery’s died.

I hit him a little far back as he was moving, he only went a ways and was feeling real bad, standing still, I was able to sneak into about 20 yards and shoot him again.

[Fletcher]

#59156

Thanks, Dave, but no need. I have some Woody Weights and should be able to get close enuf. I’m thinking a 190 fp and 100 ww plus some lead. What wood shaft spine and point weight shoots best from your Shrew now?

Nice hogs, King!

[David Petersen]

#59215

Rick — I’ll drop you a pm or give a phone call so we don’t bore everyone with my personal stats. Much thanks.

King David — One thing about your hog kills (and the deer pics I’ve seen as well) is that you never have to hang ’em and cut their throats to know they are completely bled out! 😛

[Vintage Archer]

#59273

Kingwouldbe

David,

Congratulations. I think you have the first kill with a TuffHead 300. I am sure that will gain a spot in Ripleys.:D

Well at least in my book:)

GIVE THAT MAN A CIGAR:D:D

Again congratulations

[Vintage Archer]

#59279

David Petersen wrote: Rick — I’ll drop you a pm or give a phone call so we don’t bore everyone with my personal stats. Much thanks.

King David — One thing about your hog kills (and the deer pics I’ve seen as well) is that you never have to hang ’em and cut their throats to know they are completely bled out! 😛

David and Rick,I cannot speak for everyone but I was not getting bored by your post.Actually I was learning some things.:)

[kingwouldbe]

#60035

Can a 2 blade really leave this kind of blood trail from a hog? 😯

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