Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › New arrows!!
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I’ve been shooting carbon arrows (GT Devistator 55-75) on my 45# PSE Recurve since I got it two months ago. Monday I picked up some Easton XX75 2016’s and am blown away by what I’ve been missing in arrow weight! A good friend told me the heavier arrows would make the bow a bit quieter, but I had no idea how much. The switch to heavier arrows requires a little adjustment in sight picture elevation, but I love the way they come off the bow! shooting a 125 grain tip.
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RW — you’re halfway there! Indeed, raw weight is the single most important (non broadhead related) factor in good penetration. But beyond what Dr. Ed Ashby in his studies identifies as the “minimum heavy bone thresshold” of 650 grains, forward weight balance (FOC) takes over. Thus, at some point you might want to return to your light carbon shafts and start stacking weight on the front end. So, let’s say you have a total weight of 550 grains with your 2017s including 125 point. For fun, weigh your carbon shafts, let’s say 300 grains. Thus, in order to get back up to the 550 you need 250 grains up front. Good overall weight and high FOC not only provide great penetration, but a quiet bow, no hand shock, and enhanced accuracy. You simply have to try it to appreciate it. A problem with aluminums is that it’s hard to impossible to find heavy brass inserts, which is necessary for good FOC. For example, for deer I shoot 300-grain carbon shafts with 125-grain brass inserts, 147-grain two-blade broadheads with 100-grain screw-in adapters. For elk I add another 150 grains up front. In both cases they fly straight with minimal increased trajectory, and sail through deer and elk like butter. Just some stuff to kick around for future experimentation. For now, you’re absolutely on the right track. 😀
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This topic is just what I’m looking for! I’m shooting 66″ 54# long bow. How much weight can I addd up front to a 5575 gt before I need to change shafts? Not sure if I am phrasing that right ,I hunt only wt deer at the moment but Ak is looming in the backround. thanks,Campcomfort.
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Comfy — While others here may be, I’m not familiar with those arrows (I’m really a woody guy who has been co-opted ad hoc to carbon for all their advantages, while continuing to work toward a wood that gets the jobs EFOC done without excess weight). In any event, with any shaft, it’s the same drill: get your hands on some target points in various weights — they’re now available up to 300 grains if you shop around– and incrementally add heavier points until arrow flight shows weak spine. At that point you can back off to the heaviest that shoot perfectly from your bow and current arrows, or cut a bit of shaft length if you have extra, which will allow for even more weight up front, or move up to heavier spined shafts. Several mail-order trad supply houses sell field point “test kits” just for this purpose. Enjoy …
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Thanks DP, will do with the test set up.With the price of carbons just trying to close the gap a little.I’ve got five months till the season opens here.Looking foward to getting out of state a little this year with the bow.Myself and 8 others go down to WV for firearm season hence “camp comfort”.Time to branch out a little!! thanks again!!
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I am a carbon fan myself for the same above mentioned reasons…. But there is another option for the Aluminum arrows too. I just atarted messing with them in my carbon, and that is the PDP inserts that you can add weight to the back of.
I haven’t messed with them long enough to say if they are great or not, maybe others can chime in. With the carbon you simply pull your nock slide the a tool down in with your desired weight on it and screw it into the back of the insert. With the aluminum you wouldn’t need the tool just heat the insert pull it out add your weight till you are happy with it.
You can get weights in 5, 10, 20, 30, and 50gn. and stack how many you want.
Right now I am tuning, but when I am happy with the weight I am going to pull them out locktite them and put them back in, but I have been shooting them a bit lately and have no signs of them loosening without the locktite.
They didn’t make them for my Beaman MFX’s so I took their HIT inserts broke the 25gn. piece off and drilled the back, tapped it and have been using the wieghts with the HIT inserts. Built my own tool to instal them with too: a allen wrench and a 3/16 brass rod 36″ long.
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