Home Forums Friends of FOC Need help with setup

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    • Andy Lateer
      Member
        Post count: 5

        I’ve been shooting traditional equipment for 40 years. I’ve always read everything, but apparently never really understood anything as I’ve always tried to set up my equipment, but never really had a lot of success. I can remember attempting to bare shaft woody’s and have them snap as they hit the target butt, so those big helical feathers seemed to do the job. And yet somehow I managed to be a decent shot.

        I’ve determined to set up a EFOC arrow. I’ve got 350 gr up front with a total weight of 636 gr. (I’m only shooting a 40# bow.) Both fletched and bare shaft are impacting straight into a block target, so I’ve determined that my nock is set properly. Both fletched and bare shaft are impacting the target as a group, however, the fletched shafts are slapping, I assume its off the shelf, as the velcro on the shelf is wearing on the outside edge. Although, it was wearing with the bare shafts, just don’t hear it slap. I’ve been playing with the brace height, it gets better and worse but I can’t eliminate the slap.

        If anyone can point me in a direction, I’d greatly appreciate it.

      • Stephen Graf
        Moderator
          Post count: 2429

          I’m guessing you are shooting carbon arrows. I’m also guessing that the arrow spine is off a bit. You could try reducing or increasing point weight and see if that affects it.

          Usually when I get a slap like you describe, the arrow is stiff. What is the spine of your arrow? What is the length?

        • Andy Lateer
          Member
          Member
            Post count: 5

            Yea, Steve your right. The shafts are a little stiff, I got careless. Actually I knew they were a little stiff when I made the post yesterday, just didn’t want to own up to it. I have some 300 gr field tips that I switched out for the 250 gr tips, it may have decreased the slap a little, maybe. But the bare shafts still impacted the block target nock right. New shafts arrived today. I will be moving a little slower this time. And your right that they’re carbon.

            The shafts are Gold Tip 3555s and 31” from the valley of the nock to back of point. They are definitely weak at full length, but I am learning a hard and expensive lesson. This is the 3rd dozen arrows hopefully I’ll get it right this time.

            Now, even when the shafts were weak the shelf was wearing on the outside edge. Any thoughts? And I truly appreciate your response. Thanks!

          • Stephen Graf
            Moderator
              Post count: 2429

              My experience with velcro is that it doesn’t make a good rest. It wears out too fast.

              I use a piece of of bear hear for the shelf, and a piece of an old damascus glove for the side plate.

              A bear hear rest costs 5 or 6 bucks, but I can usually cut about 10 pieces out of it for the rest.

              A thicker piece of leather will work for the shelf too.

            • Mike O’Neill
              Member
                Post count: 8

                Those stiffer arrows would likely fly nice out of say a 55lb. Bow . You could probably sell them and recoup some of your loss .??

              • Andy Lateer
                Member
                Member
                  Post count: 5

                  Thanks again Steve, I’ve thought about that many times but resisted making the switch. I liked that soft fluffy surface, which didn’t last long. Again just need to have someone else slap me in the face with it. Didn’t have the bear hair laying around, but do have some leather, I made the switch.

                  Kitsequecia, yeah I’ve got 100 gr brass inserts in both dozen arrows. One dozen 3555 traditional and one dozen GT ultralight entrada shafts, only someone looking for EFOC & UEFOC would interested. I ordered the ultralights without checking thinking that because the 3555s were 32” the ultralights were too. So when I got them I immediately glued in the brass inserts, with the nock they come in at 30 1/2” didn’t have a chance with them.

                • David Coulter
                  Member
                    Post count: 2293

                    I am also curious about the wearing on the outside of the shelf. It wouldn’t seem the feather would wear that spot, although I’m using four fletch now, it wore the same with three feathers. Dwc

                  • Cleland
                      Post count: 40

                      What’s the reason your shooting such a light bow? I started my bow hunting as a teenager with a 55 lb. bow, in my 20’s went to 60lb. Bow, at 65 now for a month went back to a 55lb. Bear bow. Have always shot Easton 2219 arrows and they have always shot nice and straight from both bow weights. Just to let everyone now I started drinking that boost protein 6 months ago and felt a lot stronger every since I started that program. I think I could probably still shoot the 60lb. But it’s tuff in cold weather. Both new bows are the 1959 bear classics, with the feather arrow rests which are nice because water doesn’t seem to affect them much. Just thought I would add the boost effect for some food for thought on you older hunters, LOL!!!

                    • Dan Jackowiak
                        Post count: 106

                        alateer wrote:

                        Kitsequecia, yeah I’ve got 100 gr brass inserts in both dozen arrows. One dozen 3555 traditional and one dozen GT ultralight entrada shafts, only someone looking for EFOC & UEFOC would interested. I ordered the ultralights without checking thinking that because the 3555s were 32” the ultralights were too. So when I got them I immediately glued in the brass inserts, with the nock they come in at 30 1/2” didn’t have a chance with them.

                        You might be able to remove the nock and take a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the inside of the shaft. Drop it in the open end and whip the arrow a few times and nock the inserts out. Just depends on how much glue you used when you put them in, they might come out easy or might not. A touch of heat might help as well but be careful, to much heat damages the carbon.

                      • Stephen Graf
                        Moderator
                          Post count: 2429

                          What 2Blade said has always worked for me.

                          But be CAREFUL as the insert and drill bit come zipping out fast enough to break a window, jar, glass, or dent the floor, or cause someone to slap you when it hits their leg. At least that’s what I’ve heard. I’m waaay too smart to have actually experienced any of these things myself 🙄

                          And while the insert always comes out, sometimes the carbon fibers of the arrow come out in a spiral too. When this happens, the arrow must be cut shorter, or discarded.

                          And that’s why I switched to using bohnings blue insert hot glue for carbons. I’ve never had an insert fail with this hot glue, and they are super easy to get out.

                          Course, that’s before I switched to woodies this past winter. We’ll see if I keep the woodies after this hunting season.

                        • Mike O’Neill
                          Member
                            Post count: 8

                            I think there’s a good chance they might work ok with the heavy inserts in my 56# bow .i’ve had luck getting glued inserts out by applying heat to the field tip and twisting with a pair of vice grips. didnt work on the little 9/32 easton axis arrows though. the carbon just separated ! I too have had luck with the hot melt stuff . Good luck with those woodies .Ive been playing with some Doug fir shafts in may shrew bow they fly pretty nice and quiet.

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