Mechanical Broadheads

[fairburnhunter]

#6780

Can mechanical broadheads be used with traditional bows? If I use a 50 grain insert and 100 grain Grain Reaper mechanical broadhead that will take me to 150 grains.

[james gilmer]

#54817

You should read up on the Ashby broad head report. It will give several good reason not to use mechanicals. Cut on contact broad heads are deadly.

[T Downing]

#54831

No disrespect intended. In my opinion, mechanical broadheads are an absolute disaster waiting to happen particularly with big animals like elk. One of the worst broadhead designs ever invented. Like James said, check out Ashby’s broadhead reports and I bet you will reconsider…

[Dan Sweeney]

#55092

NOPE!! Shouldn’t even be used with compounds for that matter.

[lee]

#55144

Like the others, all due respect intended:

Mechanical broadheads are a disgusting marketing gimmick that unfortunately lures some people in. Any properly aligned two-blade will fly like a field point.

Mechanicals work with compounds (sometimes) because the arrow is flung so fast a golf ball on the tip could cause serious damage.

Stick with a two blade.

[William Warren]

#55312

Three words:
Don’t do it.
Nothing Traditional about them. OK, that was more than three words.

[WICanner]

#55374

Like they say, read the Ashby Reports. So much can go wrong with mechanicals no matter what bow is used. Too many weak parts, in a weak design.

[anointedarcher]

#55930

Hey fairburnhunter, yes that combination will give you a 150 grains, but like the other guys have graiously stated, it is not what you want to do. There are way to many good cut on contact broadheads out there to even entertain the idea of a mechcanical head.

[David Petersen]

#56005

It’s for good reason that mechanical broadheads are outlawed in several states and limited in others. I came within an inch of single-handedly getting them outlawed here in CO a few years ago and had I received the support of CBA it would have sailed through. But of course, that group is generally on the wrong side of every ethics issue and strongly opposed me, including one rep claiming that Dr. Ashby’s studies were all designed to help sell “his” ABS Ashby broadhead. Even so, if I could have made the finaly meeting where the vote was taken, in Denver (a full day’s drive from here) I believe we could have gotten rid of these animal-torture devices. In that regard — giving a damn about the animals we hunt — the modern hi-tech bowhunting marketplace, including the magazines that bristle with ads for all this junk — well it just makes me sick to even be peripherally linked to it by association in the inexperienced public mind. Sorry, but it’s a sore spot. We owe the animals we hunt the cleanest and fastest possible deaths, and anything that works against that is wrong wrong wrong. From a “practical” pov, these things exist thanks to the obsession with the hi-tech crowd for faster, flatter-shooting arrows for longer and longer shots. With slower moving trad set-ups they are absolutely pointless since only the biggest and poorest designed broadheads will wind-plane at trad speeds. To sum up Ashby’s test results for open-on-impact heads — no other broadhead design even came close to suffering as many mechanical failures, and even when they “worked” they provided the poorest penetration of any design. Get a nice proven two-blade design and simplify your life. And this is NOT a personal indictment aimed at anyone who is unaware of the problems with these things — but rather an indictment of the hi-tech marketplace. Cheers, dave

[T Downing]

#56027

“We owe the animals we hunt the cleanest and fastest possible deaths, and anything that works against that is wrong wrong wrong.”

Well said Dave!

[wildwills]

#56050

lee wrote: Like the others, all due respect intended:

Mechanical broadheads are a disgusting marketing gimmick that unfortunately lures some people in. Any properly aligned two-blade will fly like a field point.

Mechanicals work with compounds (sometimes) because the arrow is flung so fast a golf ball on the tip could cause serious damage.

Stick with a two blade.

Agreed. I believe it it’s eith TBB vol 3 or 4 that shows pics of mechanical broadheads from the 1940’s. So the idea isn’t new at all.

[fairburnhunter]

#56054

Thanks To All.

[jmsmithy]

#62932

I can tell you in my wheel bow days I did succumb and try them…shot 7 deer. Three had biggest holes I’ve ever seen. One was ok, not a great shot but worked. I’ve lost throughout my bowhunting career (35 yrs) exactly 5 deer – three of them where with mechanical heads. So 7 deer shot, 3 lost. Of those 3 they were ethical shots but deer moved on each one. Never found them. Also, of the 7 shot, not one broadhead was able to be used a second time. My opinion – junk and unethical. My son (12 yrs old) asked me about them. I related my experience. He was smart enough at that point to look at me and ask why would anyone use them? That’s my boy!!:D

Stick with 2 blade, heavy single bevels and have at ’em….

[Troy Breeding]

#63931

Mechanical Broadheads???? Yuck!!!

Troy

[Bounty Hunter]

#13843

My personal experence with Mec Heads occurred a few years back when I hurt my back and could not stand the pressure of drawing my longbow at the time (moved down in weight since) so I got some training wheels. Actually it was an Onieda AeroForce that I shot like a trad bow, but it gave me a very smooth draw that my back could handle. At the big hunting show here in Houston that year I was given a trial pack of some Mec Heads (won’t mention the brand). I looked them over and because I was still young so to speak I said what the heck. I would later find that that was one of the biggest mistakes I ever made. Opening morning I had two nice fat does walk under my treestand and one present me a perfect shot that I took. The hit was good and the arrow completely passed through and stuck in the ground. The doe ran off as expected. After sitting in the stand for 30 minutes or so, I climbed down and inspected my arrow. The arrow was covered in blood, but I was totally shocked to find that the blades never deployed. I did find blood, very little, and after about 2 hours found the deer about 60 yards away. To this day I know the only reason I found her at all was the Lord was with me and the arrow passed through the middle of the heart. Never used Mec Heads again, and tell everyone I know this story and not to use them as well. Anything mechanical will fail at some point in time and Murphy’s Law dictates that it will occur at the worst possible time, in this case a shot on live game. As others have stated good sharp 2 blade heads are all you need.

[bruc]

#15259

I agree fully with everyone aboyut mechanical broadheads being, maybe, not all that good.
The only exception would apply to someone that has difficulty sharpening.
For me sharpening is almost a pasttime or hobby,almost as important as regular shooting practise. It took years of trial and error, different stones and techniques before I finally got semi-proficient at it.Somedays I still struggle!
My advice if this is the problem, is to use a good reputable broadhead that have replaceable pre-sharpened blades. there are lots out there!
In the mean-time acquire some regular two-blade resharpenable broadheads and start practising.
Either way “you cut it” The broadhead has to be razor sharp to perform !
I know this is not the” traditional way” but for some it may be the best way .
Bruce

[David Petersen]

#15407

Bruc — Can you recommend a good replaceable-blade broadhead that is truly cut-on-contact? I’m yet to see one, but only variations on a central cone or pyramid. And so far as I know, nobody makes a 2-blade replaceable design?? Way back when, I did everything wrong (the Ashby Natal Study was yet to be published, or at least to come to my attention) by using aluminum shafts and 125-grain Thunderhead 3-blades, total arrow weight around 550, for elk. I cringe to think how many shots that had “perfect arrow placement” and “should have” penetrated for a double-lung kill did not. Over and over I had to follow blood trails and frequently finish the animal off with another shot. And I was shooting 64 pounds. Then I discovered heavy arrows and 2-blade heads and all that guilt and misery is history. I am not disagreeing with you at all, but merely adding some personal background. Indeed, replaceable-blade heads beat mechanical heads all to pieces, yet they themselves are far inferior to fixed blades for penetration and ruggedness. I used them “back when” precisely for the reason you bring up — my inability to sharpen fixed blades to my satisfaction. Turns out that was mostly because I hadn’t really applied myself. Happily, more and more two-blade makers, esp. of single-bevels, are finally offering truly shaving-sharp professionally sharpened heads “out of the box” that need only a stropping to be hunt-ready. True cut-on-contact heads are all the more important when shooting lower poundage trad bows. IMHO and personal experience.

[bruc]

#17679

You were right Dave there’s nort a lot to choose from. I was at a local archery shop today that caters mainly to compound bow users. They had 4 or 5 types of mechanical heads and one three blade type that would have been similar to the Thuunderhead.
I still feel that “sharp” is the key and that there should be something for people that have trouble sharpening. I’m just not sure what that is ?
Bruce

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#18674

I’ve never heard a single persuasive argument for using mechanicals that wasn’t marketing hype (especially when weighed against the added complications/disadvantages).

As with most any outdoor equipment, if you want it to be reliable, keep it solid and simple.

[Stumpkiller]

#19522

If you choose to shoot a teeny shaft with piddly fletch you need a broadhead that isn’t a broadhead until it reaches the target.

To me that’s just an argument against teeny shafts and piddly vanes. I’m a Stos and Magnus II fan, myself.

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#19536

BRUC wrote:
I agree fully with everyone about mechanical broadheads being, maybe, not all that good.

The only exception would apply to someone that has difficulty sharpening.

Respectfully, I would argue that a lack of good sharpening skills still shouldn’t necessitate something like having to resort to a mechanical. If you purchase a good broadhead, such as a Stinger (and there are other examples) that already comes with a reasonably sharp edge, all that is required to get them super sharp is a few swipes with something like an Accu-Sharp. Anyone can do that in a few minutes and have a very sharp edge that they can feel confident hunting with.

And then, I suppose that if you want to take your sharpening skills to the next level, you can graduate to any number of “fine” broadheads that come out of the package with a crummy edge, haha…

[lee]

#19857

I have alot of difficulty sharpening broadheads, and knives too. I think maybe I over do it sometimes and dull the edge after it’s already sharp, it gets frustrating sometimes, but never would I use a mech broadhead.

[bruc]

#20033

I wasn’t suggesting that people should use mechanical broadheads. I was suggesting that for anyone that has trouble sharpening to go to a three bladed head that used disposable blades.
Muzzy ,Thunderhead, Savora, Satellite used to be some of the heads of this type.
I looked in an Archery store on Saturday and they seem to be non-existant. I still maintain that this type of head is more lethal than a semi-sharp cut on contact type of blade.
These disposable blades were what I consider the benchmark of being sharp. I wonder how many of us when sharpening a two blade head, are achieving this level of sharpness ?
I guess it doesn’t help a lot when they are not available
Didn’t realize I was so far behind the times !!
Bruce

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#20038

Ah, gotcha. Sorry if I misinterpreted your post. And I agree.

[snafu72]

#23792

I use magnus stinger buzzcuts 2 blade and i buy the replacement blades to swap in when its time to go hunting those spare blades are so sharp i can shave arm hair right out of the box

As for how tough they are i tested a 2 blade 125grain in 3 ways [70lb bow 670 grain arrow 25%foc] i shot them at 12 yards [thats where i get the most penetration] in to soild concrete bounced off and then 1/2 plywood had to unscrew it and pull the shaft out and then shot a shed mosse antler 1 inch of soild bone and it stoped on the ferrule and then i couldnt get the blade out of the antler so i unscrewed the ferrule from the blade and put a new blade on with the same screw and it shot fine at 25 yards

That test only costed me $4 but i had to know what it could survive some may call this test a waste but i have to know my gear isnt going to fail

[stalkin4elk]

#34325

Now that its rifle seaon in most places, go ask a meat cutter to save his broadheads from game shot with a rifle. Save mechanicals for small game.

[RI Swamp Yankee]

#35780

I’ve had top of the line (all things being relative) mechanical broadheads bounce off of turkeys out of a 60# compound on multiple occasions. Sold them with the compound a couple of years ago and will never use them again. They fly great but what’s the point if they fail as offen as they work?

I’ve had good luck with Muzzy three blades in the past; no penetration problems on whitetails with a reasonably heavy aluminum arrow out of a 50# bow behind it. Currently I’m using 160gr glue-on Woodsmen Elites for the extra weight and the cut on contact design. I can get them sharper than the Muzzy’s too.

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