Making sure they are sharp

[John Cholin]

#2754

I’m new here so I might need a little slack.

I’ve been using Magnus-2’s and I know they are sharp when I can shave the hair off my knuckles with them.

I was thinking about switching to the Woodsman heads but no matter how much I sharpen them I am not sure they are “shaving sharp”. They don’t seem to shave like the Magus heads. How do you guys make sure your 3-edge heads are sharp enough?

Thanks,

JMC

[Jason Wesbrock]

#14746

When I shot three-blade heads I’d finish them on a fine whetstone, two bevels at a time lying flat pushing away from me. When I was done they would leave a bald strip on my arm with light pressure.

[Greg Ragan]

#56832

If they can cut catch your nail and can cut through rubber bands passed over them with little stretch/pressure they are good to go.

The shaving sharp vs file sharpened debate has been going around for a while. Everyone has their own definition of what is sharp enough.

For me file sharpened (rough file serrations) are good enough and I like to be able to resharpen at will in the field with just a file and not a “system” or a grinder with polishing wheel. Put them where they need to go and they will kill effectively if they are “sharp” enough.

Brings to mind a funny John Schulz quote he had when asked about shaving sharp……He said, “I want to kill’em not shave ’em” 😆

[Stephen Graf]

#10520

two4hooking wrote: …The shaving sharp vs file sharpened debate has been going around for a while. Everyone has their own definition of what is sharp enough…

I am not sure what you refer to when you say “debate”. I think it is pretty well known that a sharper instrument causes more bleeding. It has something to do with the cells being cut open vs. torn apart. The torn cells cause faster clotting and provide better sites for the clotting to occur.

Maybe what you mean by “debate” is that some folks may think that super sharp is overkill and isn’t necessary, while other folks think it is necessary.

I’ve never needed to resharpen a broadhead in the field. But my adventures are pretty close to home for the most part. That said, I have killed moose in Quebec, Elk in Idaho and Colorado, and caribou in Newfoundland. None of these adventures went off without a hitch, but I always had an extra arrow ready to go 😀

I like the grinding and polishing wheel setup. Fast, easy, and effective.

two4hooking wrote: …Put them where they need to go and they will kill effectively if they are “sharp” enough…

A field point would fit that definition… just saying, not arguing. 🙄

I will call your old timer quote, and raise you another. Fred Bear said: “We deluded ourselves by thinking that our file sharpened broadheads were sharp.”

[David Coulter]

#24690

I suppose sharp enough is in the eye of the archer, but I doubt you’ll find anyone to say an edge is too sharp. I can get mine to slice paper and shave hair, but I have not gotten them to shave hair right to the skin like a razor blade will. I’ll keep on the path toward that. Whether or not it matters much slicing through the animal, it’s a journey I wish to continue for myself.

I will say that after reading a some of the Ashby studies, file sharp won’t suit my personal taste. I shot a small deer a few weeks ago and dug the arrow out of the dirt. When I washed the broadhead, a Tuffhead, it would still cut hair off my arm. That one got stropped and put in the number one position in my quiver.

best, dwc

[Greg Ragan]

#36043

Allow me to retort…

The traditional journey I have been embarking on has evolved. I used to be ultra techno., uber scrutinizing of every single aspect of my “trad” gear and equipment in order to reach the outer possible threshold of “deadliest, most efficient, set up”. That path pulled me right around back into the “techno hunt” that I gave up the wheels for in the first place.

As that realization came to fruition I decided to take a divergent path and continue to simplify not only my gear, but the amount of stress and worry of things which really turn out to be insignificant in the scheme of things.

There is a basic bowhunting tenant, perhaps even considered one of the 10 commandments…..”Thou shalt sharpen thine broadheads to a keen edge”. Obviously I am not arguing against this principle for the killing of the arrow is done with the hemorrhage that results from these flying knives.

…and thank you for the extreme analogy, but no my definition does not include a field point.

I have come to believe all things in the world of archery are a trade-off. I have also learned to steer clear of the extremes.

I began to simplify my gear and tactics. I now hunt with a back quiver, POC wood arrows, and a simple ASL Longbow…..knowing full well other equipment may be more “efficient”…..but does that mean this gear will not kill just as efficiently???

Let us get back on topic now and look at broadheads a moment:

A thinner edge will be sharper, but also perhaps less durable.

Soft metal is easier to sharpen, but perhaps also less durable

A single bevel may add a bit of rotation or penetration, but is all that needed on my hunting weight bow and deer/elk sized targets.

Tool grade high Rockwell steel will hold an edge longer, but does that justify paying 3 or 4 times as much for a head.

A multi blade head will have more cutting area, but then it might be at the penetrations expense.

As I stated it all comes down to what priority the hunter wants to choose at the expense of something else.

Do I think there is a head that is too sharp…..Hell yes I do! The one that can only be acquired by a 110 outlet and a workshop IMO. I would much rather be able to have the ability to sharpen in the woods with only a file. Yes, I do this often. I shoot at a heck of a lot of squirrel, rabbits, and other small game while I am deer hunting and occasionally I’ll miss and bury one in a tree. To me this self-reliance and ability in the field is more appealing and rewarding.

I file sharpen my heads and even intentionally put in serrations with the edge of my file (GASP!)….then re-work the edge back smooth so I have a combination micro-serration/sharp edge. I do this in part because this type of edge will stay effective and durable after passing through tough hide and bone despite the softer steel in my chosen head. Do I have horrible blood trails and lots of lost game????? Nope, stuff is still just as dead and just as quick as before.

I have no use personally for stuff I cannot maintain in the field. Heck if a ceramic broadhead was proven by a PhD physicist as the sharpest, most durable, “Best broadhead on earth” I still wouldn’t spend $30 a piece on it to kill a deer or elk I could make just as dead with a $5 Ace standard. But that’s me.

Everyone must figure out what is sharp enough, fast enough, short enough, heavy enough, expensive enough etc. for them. I am simply sharing there is more than one view on the subject when taken as a whole. My edges are sharp, I’ll be happy to let you examine them and have had great success with them. There is just a point when I refuse to pole vault over mouse turds any longer. It may be human nature but I’m personally done with the overkill analysis and put my excess energy into refining my skill set and enjoying the hunt.

BTW Fred Bear also advocated poison pod broadheads. No thank you!

[David Coulter]

#36295

Two4,

Thank you for your response. Given your experience, which seems extensive, I appreciate your views. You’ve been through much of the stuff we discuss here. I have resisted the urge to buy a mechanical sharpener and still sharpen by hand, even if it takes me some time. For myself, I’d just as soon so to the woods with a shaving sharp head. If I need to resharpen in the woods, I can do that with a file and actually feel pretty confident in my abilities to do that.

Thanks again for taking time to respond. You views a valuable to a guy like me, so fell off the turnip truck a long time ago, but is still relatively new to bowhunting. best, dwc

[Stephen Graf]

#38108

Well said Greg!

I like a fellow that doesn’t get too ruffled up when he’s put to task 8)

[Greg Ragan]

#45233

No worries, there is no reason why adults cannot have a civil discourse about opposing viewpoints. It is just a shame these conversations are the rarity these days as I think they are the most helpful to gaining a healthy perspective.

Greg8)

[grumpy]

#50964

two4hooking wrote: Allow me to retort…

The traditional journey I have been embarking on has evolved. I used to be ultra techno., uber scrutinizing of every single aspect of my “trad” gear and equipment in order to reach the outer possible threshold of “deadliest, most efficient, set up”. That path pulled me right around back into the “techno hunt” that I gave up the wheels for in the first place.

After burning out a couple times in computer rooms in the 70/80s I’ve learned to keep a tight reign on things technical. Seems it takes constant vigilance.

[Ralph]

#62520

Yup, a file is a whole lot easier to carry in my gear than some of the other contraptions people seem to be in need of to get their broadheads sharp.

I can sharpen mine with a file to the point that they slice thru loosely held notebook paper with ease and I’ve no problem with that at all.

So whatever suits your fancy as long as it’s SHARP.

In all my years working as a power electrician there’s no telling how many feet (miles 🙄 ) of cable I stripped the insulation off of. I learned really quick that a sharp knife was invaluable but I also learned that too sharp of an edge would dull quicker. The razor edge was too fine and would turn away when it rubbed against the metal.

I did have good quality tools.

Just sayin!

[Donald Hoffman]

#129874

I used to think I could not get my broadheads sharp enough but after I thought about the animals  that my arrows were blowing through and killing them the realization came to me. They certainly must be sharp! I’m only shooting 47# which is plenty.

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