Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Left Helical VS. Right Helical
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I just visited a forum where this question was asked. Apparently the rest of the world is shooting Right Helical fletching and had pretty good reasoning behind their choice. I really do not know why I use left helical but i can say that my arrows are tuned pretty good with a left beveled single blade. Does anybody else out there use Left Helical Fletching or am I behind the times?
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Crystalshrimp No you are not alone. I did a survey on another forum concerning the same thing that is right wing versus left wing shooters. Over 100 people participated. The results were spit 50/50. I am sure there are good arguments for both.
The best argument for right wing feathers and right bevel broadheads is that the arrow set up is turning so the broadhead is being tightened on the arrow. (righty/ tightly—lefty/ loosely) -
I use right right now but have used left in the past. I had a bow one time that for some reason would not get good arrow flight with right wing arrows. Some guys that are right handed will shoot left because their left hand is so close to the shelf that right wing feathers cut their hand, I have experienced this with a few bows I had. I don’t have any problems with the bows I shoot now but I will be experimenting with lefts again after this hunting season. Left bevel heads are easier for me to sharpen being right handed and that reason alone would make it worth it to switch.
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I’m fletching right, but only because when I started I found a right hand jig for cheap. I was shooting 3Rivers hunters arrows fletched left by them and they worked great.
After reading some more of Dr. Ashby’s articles I decided to give a straight fletch a ride, using my right wing feathers. They’re flying great, too, as long I do my part.
I’m going to work up some carbons soon and see what happens with them. -
There are several reason for left vs right. As stated above, righty tighty, lefty loosey. Another started when right wing feathers were hard to get. This was due to the fact that when clippers dock the wings of young turkeys to prevent flying
they will clip the right wing due to most clippers being right handed and the way they hold the bird. Another reason for this has to do with fixed nocks. Before the invent of the uni-nock all nocks were either self or glue on. This would cause the lower inside hen feather to bump the shelf causing the arrow to have jump as it crossed over. Another as stated above had to do with the way the outer hen feather would often snag the hand. Today, alot of thos problems have been solved by the invent of the uni-nock. So I say go with what you have and let the arrows rip…Troy
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I never paid too much attention to my feathers, as far as alignment. We I was a kid, the cock feather faced straight out, so that’s the way I still do it. I do show some wear of the rest on the outside of the window, which was always a bit of a mystery. If the bottom hen is facing in and the cock straight out, then why the wear there?
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[quote=dwcphoto] We I was a kid, the cock feather faced straight out, so that’s the way I still do it. [/quote
I nock my arrow in the same fashion. Is it supposed to face in? Has anybody had any real obvious set backs with Left Helical such as less penetration, (shooting Single bevel BH’s) or actually having a Bh’s come completely loose.
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My findings of shelf wear on the outside is a result of improper tuning. Others may tell you something different. Once I tuned my arrows to where they bareshaft correctly my shelf wear has gone.
If you shoot LW they say your more likely to have points and bH unscrew. I solve this by rubbing the threads of my FP and BH in bees wax. I shoot all my arrows cock feather out.
Troy
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I’ll have a new calf hair rest about the time my components come in for tuning the carbons, so I’ll see how that goes. I use a tiny bit of glue stick on the threads, warmed, then screwed into the insert. This works pretty well and it’s also easy to get them off.
Thanks, d
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