KME sharpener

[doug krueger]

#3317

Hey there,

My awesome wife got me a KME broadhead sharpener for x-mas. I was wondering what people use to do the bulk of the sharpening. I know it can be a lot of work to get started on a grizzly or a tusker concord. Is there a stone that is really really course that will take a lot off quickly. I was thinking course automotive sand paper? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Doug K

[Doc Nock]

#18611

Been down this road with Ron at KME… with Tusker Concord. Ended up buying one KME beveled.

Setting the angle with harder heads like Girz and Tuskie is the trick.

KME just got some new diamond stones…kick butt ones in comparison to what they had…

Ron had me using the automotive wet-dry sandpaper (coarse) wet on a piece of glass to set edges on some early ones that were wrong bevel. I like mine to match the Broahdead sharpener so touch up is quick and easy.

I’ve heard of guys using a belt sander in a vise upside down…then just letting the roller touch the sander and keep it cool (and going in the correct direction!) 😯

Watch the heat… keep it cool… but I’ve heard that can work miracles.

If you burn up a roller, KME can supply a replacement.

Getting that bevel where you want it…AND…AND… getting it sharp on the roughest stone, paper, whatever FIRST…before you move onto a finer grit is CRITICAL. Only took me 2 yrs to heed that tutorial from Ron and start to see results. Can you say “stubborn German?”

[David Petersen]

#19551

Doug — I use the KME knife sharpener for broadheads, but can second DocNock that the new coarse KME stones are the ticket for taking off lots of metal fast–almost as aggressive as a mill-cut file. I have both steel/diamond and stone. But I must add that a growing number of top broadheads today come precisely beveled and professionally and truly sharpened, absolutely hunt-ready, making that readiness a major purchase consideration for me, especially since coarse cutting to try and get the bevel angles where you want them and everything shaving sharp, can leave you with head weights all over the map; not great for tuning and accuracy. Start with a wise broadhead choice and, until you bang ’em up in use, your sharpening worries are reduced to merely light touch-up.

Did you order your new bow yet? If so, what length, draw weight, and wood choice did you get, and how long is Gregg saying the wait is now?

[doug krueger]

#19711

Dave,

You are right but as you know I am not very smart. It bothers me that I cant sharpen a single bevel BH. I can sharpen saw blades, saw chain, drill bits and every other kind of BH with a file but not the single bevel. It bothers me that I even need the jig. I will get a diamond stone and do the rest with automotive sand paper. I do appreciate your advise and someday I will buy tuffheads but I have to throw my money away first.

As far as the bow I got the 58″ elkheart 55# @ 32″ with the waterfall bubinga veneers. Gregg said it should be here in a couple of weeks. That was before the ice storms that knocked out his power for at least a few days. I hope it will be sometime in Jan. I dont know how long the wait list is now?

Thanks for the input your the man,

Doug K

[David Petersen]

#20288

Doug, Gregg’s wait list is 8 months, from time of initial order. From the time he actually starts building your bow, I think two weeks is about right, if not interrupted by further acts of God. Well worth the wait!

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