Homemade Cresting Tool

[SteveMcD]

#6102

New Homemade Cresting Tool, an idea I picked up from one of the websites. A new sewing machine motor from the auction website, a piece of 1 X 8 wood, a couple of left over furring strips, some wood screws and a piece of surgical tubing from an online fishing lure supply co. to hold the shaft to the motor drive. Total cost about 25 dollars. 8)

[MontanaFord]

#48120

Steve.

Have you given it a whirl yet? How does it work? Let us know how things proceed.

Michael.

[SteveMcD]

#48192

Hi Michael.. Well… I was surprised. Only one minor adjustment, Need cut a new end piece of wood with a smaller hole for the end of the shaft for support and stablility. The first one was a 9/16’s hole and the shaft was vibrating eradically a lot. So I cut a new piece just using a 3/8’s drill bit, and now it spins true. I will take pic’s after the first dozen shafts are done. I’m not an expert so just practicing a bit for starters. I have updated my crest though. Being a McDonald I used the colors of the McDonald Clan Hunting Tartan.

Want you don’t see in the pic is the front of the motor and the drvie axle, I bought some 3/16’s surgical tubing and attached to the end of the drive shaft axle, the tapered nock tip at the bottom of the shaft goes into the front end of the tube, and the end of the shaft goes into the shaft support hole at the other end. There is a foot pedal on the bench in the pic, just place it on the floor pedal to the medal and hands free.. so you can concentrate on painting.

[Mark Turton]

#49851

Hi Steve

An elegant solution, I like it.

Mark.

[SteveMcD]

#61043

Well…. a couple of updates. Crester worked fine. Learned a few things though.

First attempt at cresting – Not bad for a Blind man! 😀
I have to think SMALL! Lines mean very fine brushes with 5 hairs on them and NOT 1/8 inch brushes.
Drive shaft – collet or tubing adapter for holding shafting must be absolutely parallel. any vibration in shaft spinning is uneven and not good.

[Mark Turton]

#61081

Hi Steve

An idea that may be useful, take a piece of dowel and in one end make a hole about 1″ deep and a tight fit for the output shaft on the motor, on the other end another hole a snug fit for the knock end of the arrow. Drill through the dowel a hole suitable to take a pin that will engage the knock to turn it. If you have a pedestal drill it should be quite easy to keep everything aligned.
If the fit is tight enough you may only need something like a hose clip to pinch the collet onto the shaft.
Be interested to hear what you think.
When we finish knocking the house about I’m definitely going to try this.

Mark.

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