GrizzlyStik questions

[Kegan]

#2640

I’m toying with the idea of making a new set of hunting arrows next summer. Looking over all the different new arrow shafts out there, I noticed the GrizzlyStiks. I’ve still plenty of time but I was wondering if someone could fill me in.

Right now I have two questions. The first is about cutting them. If I cut 2.5″ off the front, it’ll be shorter but the stiffest part is removed. With a heavy broadhead (250-325 grs) is there any chance it will become too stiff or not stiff enough? There are a few people out there who’ve made comments about them being impossible to tune when cut.

Second question is whether they’re as tough as advertised? Part of the reason I’m interested in them is that even though they’re expensive they’re supposed to nearly indestructible. I’m not sure what’s just advertising or not?

I’m still in the “looking around stage” and want to try experimenting with tapered hickory arrows this year, but the GrizzlyStik’s keep catching my eye. Thanks in advance.

[Treetopflier]

#11601

In my experience everything ABS sells is first-rate, and expensive. In the early days there was a “weak side” to the GrizStik shafts that really complicated things if you did your own fletching, as I do. These are the shafts I have, but I’ve heard this is no longer an issue. They darn sure are tough and consistent and the taper allows for mazimizing FOC. But as you suggest, cutting them down in length is a problem — you have to do it from the back rather than the front, requiring removal and replacement of feathers. Of course if you bare-shaft tune, you can do any necessary cutting before applying feathers. Those are the pros and cons I have experienced. But what I most often hear others complain about the GS shafts are that they aren’t standard size and you have to buy replacement nocks, etc., from ABS. They’re widely available, but it’s just another hassle. In short, it seems that guys who love ABS and GS are 100% believers and don’t mind the hassles. If you’re not in that camp, you could be disappointed. I’m trying to be on the fence, as that’s how I feel. First-class gear, but it don’t come cheap or easy. ttf

[Kegan]

#12393

Thanks Treetopflier. As I mentioned, most of what I read is just “they’re great!” or “they’re awful!” No one seems to be giving any highlights of things to watch for.

Are their any big issues when bare shafting them to be aware of?

[David Petersen]

#12429

Kegan — I have bareshaft-tuned GrizzlyStiks and it’s no different than other shaft materials. Nothing special to watch for. The intense taper sets them up weight-forward to begin with, making the job easier if anything. Do try turning the nock a quarter-turn at a time as you shoot each shaft to see if it makes a difference in flight. If you have to cut them it has to come off the back and be done with a high-speed saw. I use a fine-tooth blade on my bandsaw, rotating the shaft as I cut, and it’s still a bit “thready.” But it works. I personally think this remains one of the toughest and best designed carbon sticks on the market today, but for the reasons TTF mentions above, they no longer dominate the market as they once did. dave

[Kegan]

#12436

Thanks for the input Dave. So far they still sound like something worth giving a try, and I feel a lot better about it too.

Thanks again guys, you’ve really helped me out:D

[Barry Lyons]

#13163

I currently use GrizzlyStik and have for 3 years.I have broke 2 arrows one to a concrete wall the other to a steel beam. The Alaskan which is what I use does have a very wide spine range.You will not need weight tubes. You will be able to put on about any weight broadhead you want and make it work.I cannot paper tune these shafts,but that could be just me. Tuning by shooting bareshaft to fletched groupings works well. ABS is great to work with.

[Kegan]

#14690

Thanks for the input. This is all putting my mind at ease, and I think I will give them a try next year. It’s nice knowing ahead what might prove to be tricky rather than being suprised:wink:

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