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For the ones who do not know how, or for the ones that do, and just would like fodder to read, I will introduce a Flemish string thread. I would encourage any and all who know how to make a flemish twist Bow string to particapate by posting your methods which may shed light, or even go beyond my limited knowlege on this subject. We are always learning, and if not, we should be! Not many things are necessary to make your own strings. I would invite anyone who makes flemish strings to start this thread out by listing some of the basic materials and jig they may use. I will list my jig later and the specifications to make your own. A lot of knowlege exists here, so I invite someone to start.:)
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I use the following to make bow strings. I am not going to attempt to explain how I do it.
* Knife to cut the string materials
* String materials – Raw B-50 or Dynaflite 97
* Serving thread
* Lil’ Spinner
* Wax
* Duco Cement tiny amounts for the ends of the serving materials. -
Hey Ray I use about the same things. I like to use bowstring wax to keep my strands together after cutting the end splices. The best I have found is the string makers type wax available from string making sources. This stuff is pretty tacky compared to regular string wax, and will insure the strands stick together. That being said, regular string wax will suffice. I have also found that a very useful tool to hold the two strings together in the initial stage of starting the two bundles together to form the loop is a large pair of hemostats. These are about 10 inchs long and have the locking clasps on the bottom.I slide some peep sight tubing over the ends to grasp the strings, and the tubing also protects the strands. Another handy tool is the small alligator clips. I also slide tubing on the jaws of a couple of these to clamp off the finished end of the first braid before I start the other end.
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When I finish one loop, I clamp the end of the twist with a close pin to keep it tight. I started with a close pin instead of an alligator clip because,…I had one… and there are no worries of damaging the fibers with the wood clip.
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I have a homemade jig about 36″ long, measured in one inch increments which allow a string to be made for any bow. Ingredients are wax, B50 dacron string, usually three colours but have made two, most in dark brown, tan and black, scissors, glue, leather for burnishing and melting wax into strands. Always have trouble with serving ends and now use the eyelet on a needle to bring back the tag end under the serving.
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I will try to post a video by friday. Alot of folks from youtube want to see it, so I will kill two birds with one arrow on this one!
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To get the end of the serving wound tight and reliably strong I usually loop about 9-15 times under a short strand of string and through a loop of that same string. Then I yank the loop (from the opposite end of the loop itself in a quick motion) and serving end back under with my fingers. Once in a while pliers makes it easier but it is usually not necessary. Once it’s under and back through I cut the ends so that they are flush with the rest of the serving which is wrapped around the string and that’s where I use a drop of Duco Cement.
The photo might make for more questions than I want to answer.
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Hey Ray I will give away a method that will end you ever having to pull the end through again!
When you start your serving just loop it over and wind over it about ten times and pull the tag tight with pliers. Then just serve until you are within a half inch of the end. This method requires that you serve clockwise from left to right. It may be reversed though if you want to go counter. When you get within the half inch of the end, just pull off about eight inches of serving toward you keeping the your winding tight and hold onto the loop with your left hand keeping it tight.Now throw the server over the string at the far end of the loop and serve about ten winds in the middle of the loop onto the string. Now pull the serving tool through the loop and throw it over the left side of the loop you have been holding with your left hand. Let the server dangle on the left side and wind the loop onto the serving thread end that is crossed over to left. Wind it on clockwise on top of the serving end you crossed over the left side of the loop until you run out of the serving you wound on from the middle of the loop. Now all you have is the serving tool directly connected to the end because you have wound it on from the inside of the loop and made it endless. Pull it tight and cut it off from the front of the server. Leave a tag to burn off with a lighter. Walla you have it served without having to pull a tag end loop through. 🙂 -
I use a jig because it usually affords a tighter more precisely made string. I also like the ability to cut tapers into the string ends. The Jig I use has the string length in inches marked for the center peg adjustment. these string length adjustments are for Long Bows, which is three inches shorter than the length of the Bow. If I have to start from scratch on the strings length, I measure from the back of the Bow (front) while unstrung, from the string nock slots. I make my Recurve strings four inches shorter. I also like to use the clamps I mentioned earlier, along with a Hook on the wall at about eye level, to really twist my strings up tight! I employ the Hook to blend in the tapers and twist them in tight. I found that a tightly wound string will settle in quicker, and stay put after it is shot in. Another reason I use the Hook method, is that after the top loop is completed, and the tapers are twisted, that I can pull the entire string tightly before the bottom is twisted in. This produces a string that has even tension on all the strands. I will work my hand up and down the string and pull it tightly along the entire length to assure this. The bottom ends are then held to that “tensioned length” until I clasp my large Hemos on the beginning of the bottom loop location to begin the loop twists. I like a neatly twisted up string, that is tapered down on the bottom of the loops. This not only looks good, but makes for a long lasting and precise string!
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I am not sure if this is the method you are talking about or not Hiram, but here is the method I use to end my serving. This is a clip from a 3rivers video, that I got directly from there youtube channel.
I dont use a serving tool, to cheap to buy one, I just hold the spool in my hand and wrap it myself, but I want you guys to pay attention to the way he ends it off!
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Hold on a minute folks what happened to step by step, can someone just tell me what I need to gather around me before commencing this voyage of discovery.
I really need an idiot guide I’ve successfully failed to learn this art on two previous occasions.Mark.
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Well, here are the things I use to make strings except I forgot the beeswax in the photo. I hope someone will show their jig. I’d like to make a better one than the one shown.
Hiram, I like the hook idea. I have been putting a short piece of dowel on my bench vise and hanging the first loop over that.
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wow is your jig so much more advanced than mine:shock:, wait untill you see it, lol. My video is uploading now!
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Not knocking the jig. It’s just not a requirement for a string. The assertions that they make a more uniform and sound string which breaks in faster are definitely subjective. Mostly due to the string maker and the materials used. In fact I think it makes it harder for people to learn how to craft their own strings because you have this complex looking peg board called the jig. Doing away with said device actually simplifies things to a degree.. I might even suggest learning the jig method later.
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I’m interested in hearing about everyones method including not using a jig. Please elaborate!
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I have read about it in a book, seemed more complicated to me? But that is just my opinion. My video will be done uploading tommorrow, HD take forever to upload:D
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Get it on Ray! I am having a hard time uploading pics. I may have to wait till my laptop gets repaired. I only have a notebook. My jig uses the 17 inch longer method. I have made strings without a jig myself. Flemish twist strings are not hard to make, it just requires attention to keeping things the same length.
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Duncan’s setup is similar to mine. I use a longer homemade jig and prior to placing the continuous length of string around the finishing nails and the pivot end,I place the start end of the string in a notch of the jig ( made of wood ) which holds it there until I use the scissors to sever the strands. This creates a natural taper. Pressure holds the start end of the string in the notch which was created by simply cutting a slot into the edge of the wooden jig with a knife. I would gladly show my method, however, since I am left handed, a lot of confusion could be generated by my method as people say I am quite backward.
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Okay, good morning, o um afternoon! Here it is, and I think it is half decent at best. It is my first ever “How to video”, so any feedback would be great, not only for the video but for the method! And guys if I forgot any steps somehow, dont be shy, let me know! Enjoy!
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Buckhorn,
Won’t get me confused, I’m a lefty too!
Good video Chris! -
My method would be considered much more “Anal” than Greatrees! Not knocking his way at all. I just do it different. Wish I had my computer problems fixed, so I could post up with pics. My jig is based on the string being 17 inchs longer. I start the top loop 9 inchs from the longsest end of both bundles. I pinch it off there with my Hemos and start the twists. I twist them in tight, with a clockwise direction till I get the desired length of the loop (longer with recurves) so it will slip over the wider limb. I tend to like my loops only as long as I absolutly need them. I also taper off six strands of B-50 from my center peg to pad the loops. I integrate this into the loop, which is 18 inchs long to match my string tapers. I lay this doubled into the string before I clamp my Hemos to start the loop. I also wax my string down before I remove the bundles from the Jig. This enables me to keep the strands together. I like to twist in my loop, then cross to the same side (color) when I start my main taper. I tie the main tapers in under pressure from the eye level hook I mentioned in another post. I try to keep all the Tags twisted into the main bundle so I have a strong and good looking string after I am done. I pull the entire length of string while hooked on the “Hook” and make sure they are even on the un-finished end. While I am doing this, I try to take out any twists in the Bundles. I clamp the top Bundle with the Alligator Clip before I start this so I do not un-twist my top Tapers. By taking out the twists and any length inconsistancies, I will have a very tightly made string, settling in, and creep will be deminished considerably. I then start the other end and do it 8 inchs from the longest strand. I have marks on Jig to show these measurements. I also end my serving similar to Greatrees with the exception that: I use a serving tool, and apply my serving very tight. I like to wind my serving on clockwise, or over the string, and I go more turns to keep the Tag ends of my serving secure. I pull them tight with pliers before I cut them off.
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Hmm, I never have even thought about using a serving tool. Every string I have ever gotten from the factory has had the thread type serving and it would always unwind from the end. I have only had one of my serving jobs come undone, only because I shot it too much, and my arrow wore a spot where I nock my arrow, lol. But your way does sound different Hiram, I cant wait till your computer gets fixed too, so I can see some of the differences!:D
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Nice vid Chris….stuff like that is invaluable to people like me who wanna get into this flemish business;-)
I have just ordered string material and intent to make a jig while waiting for it to arrive. Now I just got to figure out how to make a jig:?…oh yeah, do you need seperate jigs for different string lenghts?
Cheers
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yup like Hiram said, mine has a small dowel that has several different slots for different string lenghts. If you just google flemish string jig you will find several different designs for them. I am seriously thinking of making a better one than my simple one cause of all the professional looking ones you guys have shown!
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Well it’s taken about a month, getting up courage and rereading all the posts but I finally did the deed and made a bow string:D (two really but I’m only admitting to one) and it’s not to shabby.
Found where I was having problems previously and it was just poor coordination on my behalf when making the loops.
So thanks to Hiram, Chris, Rayborbon and all the others that inspired me to have another go, it’s great to be able to do something our ancestors were doing possibly thousands of years ago.
Mark.
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Ok…made the jig (according to a schem. from Tradgang) and learned the technique (I can twist;-). So far so good.
BUT, I cant get the string lenght right (It comes up short every time). Im definatly doing something wrong and I suspect that the devil is in how far down the string I start the loop twist. I start about 10 inches from were the longest single string terminates. One thing is for sure….the length increments on my jig is off by a huge margin.
One last thing. My strings dont untangle….but I fear they will, and im just itching to put serving were the twist meets the un-twisted string. Is that needed?
Sorry if this seems trivial…but its a cause of much fustration;-)
Cheers
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:)Your loops must be the same amount of twists every time! When you start the first braid from the cross on the loops, just count them for the length you need. They stretch out a little when strung, so figure that into the equation. Simply add length by going to the next peg, if you have to, to achieve the desired length. Like shooting the one string there are no set ways to achieve the goal as long as you it the same way each time for consistancy. Bet your loops are not braided long enough if your string is half inch or soo short. I do not like to have to twist my strings up too much to achieve brace heighth. Two or three per inch or so is managable with out too much stress on the strands.
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Thanks Hiram:-)
Indeed my loops were too short, and the length difference between the shortest and longest individual string too high (which forced me to make a long splice).I finally made a working string for my recurve, and although I have used alot of string material in the process, I have learned alot.
Cheers
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I’ve made a few strings now two and three bundle that look and work OK, I’ve used B50 on my selfbow but now want to make a three bundle string using Fast Flight Plus for my Dwyer longbow.
My question is how many strands:?: or is this material so strong that I just need sufficient to fill the arrow nock.
Mark.
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Made a jig and used it for years. But a cut string way back in woods got me to thinking. Now I use those cute little cresting lines as a ruler. My arrows are crested for each bow so the nocking point is a center line with 14 inch on each side to verify brace height. then lines are marked to give me 6,12, 24 inch with 12 34 and 1 inch lines. now arrow, bow wax, string and knife are all that’s needed to make flemish string any where. Nock to nock plus 10 inches for first strand. 12 inch shorter for each additional. 9 inch for upper loop recurve or primitative 8 for long bow or narrow tips. 8 12 or 7 12 for lower nock or tie bowers knot and don’t worry lower loop. tag ends left wild are natural silencers.
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http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/
This site, if it works, is where I got my beginnings. I vary somewhat, like not as much twisting perhaps, but it works for me. I’ve learned how to adapt using either Dacron or fast flight as to how long to make a string allowing for more or less stretch. -
Two items I really like Halo serving and a Beiter Winder with the speed twister.
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