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It’s winter and it’s gonna be a while till I hunt anything again (which of course is all I can think about right now…) and so I started going through my hunting pack. Part of the off-season ritual to whittle what I carry down to the essentials.
I thought I’d share one little item (or several) – my fire kit. Pretty much any time I’m in the backcountry, hunting or otherwise, I have a small fire kit with me. It’s lightweight, it hardly takes up any room in my pack and it’s good insurance.
Contents of my fire kit:
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‘, ”, ‘Bic lighter in a plastic bag
Gobspark “Armageddon” firesteel/scraper
2 “Wet Fire” tinder packets
Film canister packed with petroleum jelly soaked cotton
balls
Dry shavings in a plastic bag
3″ x 5″ pouch
Total weight – just over 4 oz.
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Considerations that go into my fire kit:
– If I am in a situation where I truly need a fire (as opposed to just wanting one) then I need a fire now. Hypothermia is a slippery slope and this is no time to screw around. Know that what you are carrying is truly going to work when you need it.
– Fire building is a skill, and fire building in cold, wet conditions, with hypothermia setting in and compromised dexterity, is even more of a skill. Don’t just assume that because you can make a fire at a campground, you can make one in the backcountry under difficult conditions. As with all essential skills – practice under real conditions.
– I carry a lighter, but I don’t put completely trust it as my only source of ignition. I’ve camped in a lot of wet environments, and wet lighters fail – often when you need them most.
– I like to carry a large fire steel. Think about trying to use it with cold wet hands that aren’t working properly and/or with gloves on. Some of the fire steels I see are way too dinky to be practical, imo.
– As with ignition options, I like having at least a couple different tinder options. I never put all my eggs in one basket.
Another essential part of my kit, though it’s not pictured, is a good knife, preferably a fixed blade. And just like my fire kit, I pretty much always have a good knife on me in the backcountry – I can make shavings with it, split kindling with it, use the spine as a scraper for my firesteel, etc.
Anyone else? What’s in your fire kit?
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Very well thought out kit. No pics and not as sophisticated as yours but my components are a flint & steel with charcloth in the tin (which I have used successfully), wooden matches in a waterproof container, a Zippo in a plastic bag (butane is better, I know..) and I’m always picking up shrivels and shreds of birch bark and bagging. Thankfully have never had to break them out for an emergency. Good off season topic.
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Mine, fire steel, canister of cotton balls and Vaseline, canister of dry tinder, strike anywhere matches in waterproof plastic holder, wind proof lighter, three of those white fire starting little cubes, a small piece of of commercial fire log (about golf ball size), small sandwich bag of old man’s beard, flask of rum. Not too concerned about size, I am a “better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it” guy.
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Hammer — I always carry a small propane blowtorch … no such thing as overkill when it comes to survival fire. 😛
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David Petersen wrote: Hammer — I always carry a small propane blowtorch … no such thing as overkill when it comes to survival fire. 😛
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In the east we have plenty of birch. Since a scout, I’ve had rolled up birch bark in a zip lock. It burns wet or dry. d
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Anonymous
February 16, 2014 at 6:53 pmPost count: 124Ridiculously long post, but bear with me.
I finished up a “Trek (wife calls it “bat”) Belt” recently.
Most of the “heavy lifting” with all the little stuff was done by way of a surplus GDR grenade pouch. They are nicely compact, reasonably water-resistant, three compartments on the inside, and the latch system works very well with gloves or with hypothermic hands. Elsewhere on the belt will be cutting tools (knife/axe), shelter, and water, along with cooking implements and emergency food rations. For this kit, the idea was to put enough stuff in there, and the right stuff, to get me through 24-48 hours including: FAK, means of providing sustenance, fire, navigation, and illumination.
The grenade pouch fits Altoids tins beautifully, and since I had several, they were utilized. All four tins were taped over, on the lid surfaces, with masking tape and recognition symbols drawn with Sharpie. Those surfaces were then reinforced and made water resistant with cellophane packing tape. All edges along the openings were taped with two wraps of electrical tape.
FAK – one small roll waterproof medical tape, square of moleskin, small pack of Exacto scalpel blades, two antiseptic wipes, two 2”x2” gauze pads, 8 butterfly sutures, 2 standard Band-Aids, one tube SuperGlue, 2 each: Benadryl, Motrin, Tylenol, 2 first aid ointment packets, 4 chewable Pepto tabs, and 4 Imodium.
Fire – Fresnel lens (cover taped with blue painters tape for visibility), 6 storm matches with striker surfaces sealed in plastic, magnesium firestarter with firesteel insert, section of carbon steel hacksaw blade, pack of MRE moisture resistant matches, 3 feet of braided jute twine, one tampon (better than cotton balls), dryer lint
Fishing – (I’ve done enough cane poling and bank/branch lining to know that what is here will work well) Two sewing machine bobbins with 60’ each of 20# SpiderWire braid, in the electrical tape are 10 each of #2, #6, and #8 baitholder hooks, 2 oz assorted splitshot, 4 “popping bugs”, one San Juan Worm, two bead head Hare’s Ear, three March Brown wet flies, two bead head Woolly Buggers, 3 18# braided wire leaders, one pack of assorted jigs and bodies including the “Beetle Spin” spinner rigs.
Snares – (again, I’ve trapped enough critters to know that what is here will work and work well) Six sewing machine bobbins with 15’ each of 24 gauge snare wire (green), 16’ of nylon mason line (for spring snare sets), one Visine bottle cleaned and refilled with 50/50 vanilla extract and anise extract (scent attractant for most critters)
All four of those tins plus a lensatic compass, headlamp, half-roll of electrical tape, Leatherman Rebar, Zippo, lip balm (PJ based), and emergency signal mirror fit in the grenade pouch, snugly. I removed the SAK Huntsman, putting that back in my pocket, and replaced it with a mylar space blanket (reducing weight by 2.3 oz.
All up, it weighs in at just a touch under 2.5 pounds (with the SAK replaced by the mylar blanket. On a heavy leather belt or a surplus web belt, that weight will ride nicely and provide a rather decent degree of comfort knowing that the “basics” are well covered inside.
After that, the rest got fairly simple. As you can see, the belt is a USGI web/pistol belt. I used that because 1) I had one, 2) everything I wanted to add to it fit, and 3) they are basically indestructible. I could have gone with a heavy leather gun belt that I got on trade a few years back, and I may when I feel like it, but this is the basic rig here.
To the left front is the GDR grenade pouch will all the “goodies” from the “Lemonade” thread. Behind that is a Cold Steel Bushman in a “dangler” set up of sorts using an S-biner. The Bushman ain’t fancy, but it is a basic, solid, no-frills, carbon steel blade that will handle most duties well. I have plenty of other knives that can easily ride in the same set-up as the Bushman if I so choose.
To the right front is a USGI canteen carrier housing a steel USGI canteen, canteen cup, and stove. Water is a necessity and has to be carried. The steel gives me the ability to heat a frozen canteen. The cup and stove nest perfectly and are quite handy for cooking. In the carrier pocket are two vials of iodine pills; fairly self-explanatory. Behind that is a Gerber SportAxe again in a “dangler” set up with an S-biner. Nothing fancy, but a solid chopping tool and again nearly indestructible.
To the rear is a USGI poncho rolled around a hank of 50’ of 550 cord. I doubt either need introductions.
I designed this to be worn whenever I’m in the bush and not sleeping. For basic necessities, I’ve covered shelter (poncho/550 cord), fire (in the GDR and with the knife/axe), water (canteen and iodine), first aid (in the GDR), navigation (in the GDR), rescue (in the GDR), and the ability to acquire food (in the GDR). Outside of actually having food on the belt, I think I have the ability there – and with any sense in my head – to get through at least 3 seasons in my area (no extreme colds here, but with fire and shelter I could manage at least to stay alive in most places). A small backpack will accompany and carry now only food, a better cook set, sleeping gear and basic shelter.
For what it’s worth, I also have a really sweet little traditional axe, a heavy 2.75” wide traditional “mountain man” belt, and huge “mountain man” sheath that will form the basis for a “traditional trek belt” build later on. For now, though, the modern interpretation is done.
In all, this rides well. With field gear on, it actually rides a bit higher than shown in the pics (which is good) and everything is out of the way of legs, hips, and arms in motion. A small backpack can round out what I need for a few days afield now and without putting too much weight on the shoulders. Obviously, parts of it are fairly interchangeable and should I decide (for example) that the fishing and/or snare kit isn’t needed or desired, I can just drop in a nutrition bar or two and keep the same space/system intact.
There were a lot of years and a lot of miles that went into figuring out what worked for me and how to carry it, and this isn’t the only way I “do it” nor is it the only way to do it. I just thought that perhaps it might add a little something to the superb conversation that Smithhammer started.
Oh, and I can’t wait to get the “trad” belt system done. That one is just fun to work with/on.
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Wow – that is a seriously well thought-out kit!! Looking forward to seeing your grad-belt setup.
Like you, I find that modularity is key – I can take certain elements of my kit, and drop them right into my hunting pack as needed, rather than having to weed through a bunch of individual items and repack them.
And since we’re on the subject of fire (and it’s the off-season and I have nothing better to do…:wink: ), here is a pretty cool little stove setup I purchased last year – the Emberlit. It uses any natural fuel and creates a focused, chimney effect fire that will boil water just as fast as a MSR Whisperlite, if you prep it right. It folds flat for packing and is really solidly made. I have the stainless steel version and it’s just over 11 oz. They also make a titanium version that weight half that. I love not having to carry fuel in the backcountry…
Folded:
And in “On” mode:
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Anonymous
February 20, 2014 at 4:25 pmPost count: 124Smithhammer wrote: Wow – that is a seriously well thought-out kit!! Looking forward to seeing your grad-belt setup.
Like you, I find that modularity is key – I can take certain elements of my kit, and drop them right into my hunting pack as needed, rather than having to weed through a bunch of individual items and repack them.
And since we’re on the subject of fire (and it’s the off-season and I have nothing better to do…:wink: ), here is a pretty cool little stove setup I purchased last year – the Esbit. It uses any natural fuel and creates a focused, chimney effect fire that will boil water just as fast as a MSR Whisperlite, if you prep it right. It folds flat for packing and is really solidly made. I have the stainless steel version and it’s just over 11 oz. They also make a titanium version that weight half that. I love not having to carry fuel in the backcountry…
Folded:
And in “On” mode:
Oh, yeah… an Emberlit is on my “need” list for the food pouch (details on that later).
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Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
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Anonymous
February 20, 2014 at 5:14 pmPost count: 124jasonsamko wrote: Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
It’s called “chaga”, and yes it works great for tinder. However, it works FAR better as a tea and for your health (google some of the reports and attributes). Use it that way, and you’ll be better off.
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Forager wrote: [quote=jasonsamko]Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
It’s called “chaga”, and yes it works great for tinder. However, it works FAR better as a tea and for your health (google some of the reports and attributes). Use it that way, and you’ll be better off.
I think you are reffering to “true fungus” the black build ups at damage spots on the tree.
This false fungus or tinder fungus is a type of hoof fungus.
The True fungus grows on live birch trees. the False fungus im talking about is usually only on dead brich trees.
Both are great fire tinders! Just one more way the birch tree is a good resource.
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Anonymous
February 20, 2014 at 6:13 pmPost count: 124jasonsamko wrote: [quote=Forager][quote=jasonsamko]Geat kits and great info.
Here is a cool little tip to go along…
On dead birch trees (must be dead) there is a fungus that grows. We have all seen it but many dont know its value. Its called false fungus i think but we just call it tinder fungus.
it looks like a dark grey dome or igloo shape stuck to the side of the tree. In side it has fiberous material that is super fine grain straight lines like it was combed by a ultra small hair comb.
This stuff doenst light very easy with a flame but takes a spark from a ferrisum rod very well. It also is easy to light by dropping an ember on it from a bow drill, or existing fire.
This tinder fungus is what i think of as a “fail safe”. Once you drop a spark or ember on it, it will burn and smolder for many hours and to bring it back all you have to d is blow on it and you have red hot embers to use. I never make a bow drill fire with out it and use it alot with my ferosium rod becasue you get a bunch of chances to make the fire after you made the ember or spark. drop the spark or ember on it and now you have almost unlimited chances to start your tinder bundle.
Also great about the tinder fungus is that you can use it to carry fire. so if you have to travel this will smolder and carry the hot embers with you for hours.
Its one of natures best kept fire secrets IMO.
It’s called “chaga”, and yes it works great for tinder. However, it works FAR better as a tea and for your health (google some of the reports and attributes). Use it that way, and you’ll be better off.
I think you are reffering to “true fungus” the black build ups at damage spots on the tree.
This false fungus or tinder fungus is a type of hoof fungus.
The True fungus grows on live birch trees. the False fungus im talking about is usually only on dead brich trees.
Both are great fire tinders! Just one more way the birch tree is a good resource.
You are, of course, correct. I had forgotten about the false fungus. Burn that one; drink the chaga. All is well.
😉
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Hey Bruce, have you ever tried one of the kidney stoves that just lives wrapped around your cup? I’ve used a couple of stoves that look similar to that one (albeit not the same) but I really love the kidney stove. Really just because of its administrative convenience, living there on your cup.
Jim
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Jim –
Like one of these?
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Just like that Bruce 😉 The one I have is open on the top as well which allows you to sit the cup in the top which I think can be a little more efficient in windy or wet conditions.
I just love how neat it is to have a stove, cup and bottle of water in one neat little package.
Do you reckon that folding stove above is considerably faster/more efficient than the kidney stove?
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ausjim wrote:
Do you reckon that folding stove above is considerably faster/more efficient than the kidney stove?
The Emberlit is a little bigger/taller so I think you can keep a more substantial, focused fire going in it. I think it would be nicer as well if you were actually cooking and not just boiling water with it. But yeah, the canteen/cup/stove combo is pretty sweet.
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Ralph, every military surplus store I’ve ever been to has a version of them.
This one here for 10 bucks is exactly the same as mine:
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R2 –
Here’s where I found mine (and they have lots of other useful stuff):
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Bruce that canteenshop is a gem 😀 They’ve got a bunch of cool stuff.
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Here is mine:
My Altoids Survival Kit
http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com/2013/06/my-altoids-survival-kit.html
My stove:
http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com/2012/07/home-made-backpacking-stove.html
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