Final tweaks for good tune

[Gorbin]

#6931

OK guys, from my previous post about tuning my new 1916 Heritage arrows to my 45 lb. Montana, I’m still showing a little stiff- the nock is still to the right of the point on impact. By the way, my el cheapo Big Block ($20 at Dick’s) all styrofoam target is brilliant for this- the arrows stick and stay just how they hit unlike other targets that droop. Anyway, they are cut to 29″, have 5″ Shields and 150g points. I’ve been adjusting the brace height till the shot is smooth and with as little hand shock as possible. If my release is perfect they fly true and straight nicely. So I guess in terms of learning good form its quite useful. However, I’d like to get a little more forgiveness in there.

So of course I’m back on the net looking at all kinds of stuff and getting that info overload twitch again; what I really need is your collective wisdom (and an aspirin!).

1. How critical is the arrow contact on the shelf? I’m reading that this should ideally be at the grip low point. On the Montana the contact is actually forward of this as the grip is not overly shaped and the shelf radius has its high point in the middle of the rest. Is this a big concern? Should I raise the shelf at the back of the rest with some layered bits of leather just over the grip low point, or am I being anal?

2. How much difference does the thickness of the side plate really make? The Montana is supposedly cut to center. The leather side plate on there is maybe an 1/8 of an inch thick. Will a thinner plate, if I can find one, make any real difference?

3. Just cut the damn arrow longer! This seams to me to be the easiest thing to do as I still have 9 left from the dozen I started out with. And at $30 a half dozen the wallet pinch isn’t to great. But then my question is, has anyone figured out any easily understood correlation between an inch of arrow length and say the point weight? Something like: 1 inch of added length is equivalent to adding 50g of point weight in the way it affects spine, for example.

The real question is- has my analocity gone into overdrive and really all I need is a cold one? Thinking to much again? Obsessing???!!!

Gorbin.

[Bender]

#56485

Assuming for the sake of arguement that they really are a little too stiff, reduce fletch length and get a thinner side plate. Do one thing at a time. Having shaft contact directly above the deepest part of the throat of the grip, if you can achieve that should add to “forgiveness” but shouldn’t affect tune in relation to the shaft behaving stiff/weak.

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