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I just got my new recurve from Caribow Custom Archery. The bowyer suggests that the arrow is placed with feathers at 12 o:clock and 4 and 8 o:clock. I’ve tried it with the new bow, and it seems to work well. He claims that the clearance is better this way. Wondering if this is common:?:
Bruce -
Hmmmm….. Everyone seems so in tune with themselves, I hate to throw another choice out there…
But 4 fletch works well too. I use a 60 deg 120 deg orientation. I set my nocks so the string splits the 60 deg angle.
I feel I get better arrow flight with 4 fletch. Not sure how much better. But what I like is not having to orient my arrow when I put it on the string. I just stick it on and it’s the same either way. No orientation required. 8)
The other advantage, is that the feathers share wear. Since the arrow is going on the string with the feathers oriented against the bow or away from the bow 50% of the time.
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:shock:NO,NO,NO,NO :shock:…..Let’s be very clear. 💡 “Noone is without sin, no, not one”. I am a sinner, and forgiven, but “that” happens to be one I haven’t committed.
I heard that Tatoo, the littly guy on Fantasy Island, made that orientation choice.
Yea he finally came out of the cabinet.
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that works except for wood. the grain would run the wrong way on one side causing a broken arrow to hit your hand rather than breaking upward away from your hand on the other side
Steve Graf wrote: Hmmmm….. Everyone seems so in tune with themselves, I hate to throw another choice out there…
But 4 fletch works well too. I use a 60 deg 120 deg orientation. I set my nocks so the string splits the 60 deg angle.
I feel I get better arrow flight with 4 fletch. Not sure how much better. But what I like is not having to orient my arrow when I put it on the string. I just stick it on and it’s the same either way. No orientation required. 8)
The other advantage, is that the feathers share wear. Since the arrow is going on the string with the feathers oriented against the bow or away from the bow 50% of the time.
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Maybe, Maybe not. I am no wood arrow expert. But when I make wood arrows, I like to have the grain running side to side. This gives the greatest strength in the plane of the archers paradox.
I do not use arrows that have grain runout within a foot of the back of the arrow. With that said, it doesn’t matter if the arrows are oriented “up” or “down”. They work the same.
I found for wood, that using 4 fletch actually makes the arrows last longer and fly better. When you shoot a wood arrow the same way over and over, they tend to bend and take a set. When you randomly stress the arrow in opposing orientations, they seem to stay straight longer for me.
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Steve, I probably said it wrong so will try to clarify. yes the straight grain will be oriented to the bow’s side plate. the then top side of the arrow will show <<<< lines. It's called rift and reed but I get confused which is which. What i was trying to say is that the <<>>> lines toward the shooter. .this will cause a break to go down toward the shooters hand. I carry scars from not knowing this in my early days. Shoot enough wood and you will have a broken arrow at release sometime. Once is more than enough especially if it breaks down into hand. Hope a pro arrow builder reads and can explain better. Another reason for nock indicator on arrow nocks.
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BRUC wrote: I just got my new recurve from Caribow Custom Archery. The bowyer suggests that the arrow is placed with feathers at 12 o:clock and 4 and 8 o:clock. I’ve tried it with the new bow, and it seems to work well. He claims that the clearance is better this way. Wondering if this is common:?:
BruceI’m shooting a Martin Savannah Longbow now,and shoot with cock feather out. But I also have a Black Widow recurve and they recommend 12,4,and 8 cock feather up. They trim the shelf slightly at an angle to releive the number 8 feather and they cut a slit in the arrow rest material at the shelf and riser area for thr number 4 feather. I’m not sure if that helps but may give you something to think on.. Wade
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I have messed around with this subject for many years–
I do what works best with the particular bow I am shooting-
I have had bows that I had to shoot cock feather in in order to get the sort of arrow flight I demand–
I have also done the traditional cock feather out and the 12-4-8 o clock method- This seems to work with every bow I own and I will probably start making all of my personall arrows this way–
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Cock feather up puts that one hen feather closer to straight in (30º closer to being horizontal), much like shooting cock feather in. But the other hen feather is 30º closer to the shelf too.
It’s a balancing act between nock set height and fletching orientation, over time wear patterns on the fletches tell their tale. Cock feather up seems ideal if the shelf is narrow enough, then that outboard hen feather may have 100% clearance.
Personally, I shoot cock feather in, but it’s really a hen feather that’s at 3 o’clock, and the cock feather is at 11 o’clock, makes it easy to see at a glance. Hope this all makes sense, some smoke just came out of my left ear 😉
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BRUC wrote: Thanks for all the good info everyone:wink:
Wondering with two blade broadheads if there is a rule to follow for orientation:?:
BruceBruce not sure if you mean feather or broadhead alignment. One relates to the other. Some put broadhead vertical, some horizonal and some use a combination so they are vetrical or horizonal with their normal cant used in shooting. Each way requires some fletch tuning to get a good flight. I find most arrows can have nock sort of screwed on for a few shots without glue. That way you can rotate nock until you find best flight then glue on.
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I’m wondering if there is much difference between 4″ and 5″ feathers in that the 5″ would be noticeably slower?
I think on a post a while back, Chris Shelton had mentioned drag on the arrow because of a bigger fletch? My arrow length is 28″.:?:
Bruce -
BRUC wrote: Wondering with two blade broadheads if there is a rule to follow for orientation:?:
BruceI was told that horizontal broadhead alignment is best because it allows the arrow to bend around the riser (1st stage of paradox) without the broadhead steering the arrow or catching crosswind. That’s what I did & my broadheads fly like eagles.
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Hubertus wrote: [quote=BRUC] Wondering with two blade broadheads if there is a rule to follow for orientation:?:
BruceI was told that horizontal broadhead alignment is best because it allows the arrow to bend around the riser (1st stage of paradox) without the broadhead steering the arrow or catching crosswind. That’s what I did & my broadheads fly like eagles.
I’m no expert but: I have Dbl. Bevel heads,and I installed mine in a vertical posture. Besides the paradox,I believe the arrow is still turning like a rifled bullet. Unless you shoot with straight feathers. I personally like the head vert. because of the sight picture(if that makes sense). may be a mental thing but never the less thats my perspective….Wade -
BRUC wrote: I’m wondering if there is much difference between 4″ and 5″ feathers in that the 5″ would be noticeably slower?
Bruce
Actually, 4 x 4 in Fletch wouldr cover the same surface area as 3 x 5 in Fletch. If using Sheild Cut feathers for both, the 4 x 4 would likely be slower, but would still come out of paradox and stablize quicker. However, 4 x 4 Shield cut may also be noticeably nosier. I use 4 x 4 Parabolic and get good speed, quietness and excellent arrow flight.
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