"Elevated" rest..

[cavscout9753]

#7433

Looking for some good tips. I read on one of these topics about a good, durable rest material. The author (I forget who it was) uses adhesive velco, the “pile” part, to bed his arrow rests. I have a PSE coyote that “requires” an elevated rest, so I tried using this velco with a “bump” under it (some people recremend toothpicks, or popsice sticks, I used a corn dog stick sanded down smooth). Anyway, it seems my arrows keep rubbing down whatever material I use, and quick! I thought the velcro would be more durable, but it’s not. Are there any other suggestions for material I can use that will last a bit longer? As an afternote, I’m usuing gold tip herritage carbon arrows. Thanks in advance!

[Raymond Coffman]

#62318

Cavscout –

everything I have used { mostly leathers w/wo hair & velcro recently] eventually wears [shoot daily]. I have not tried these but they should be tuffer —

google up Eagle’s Flight Archery for Beaver Tail, and Alaska Bowhunting supply for Seal Skin [ although I have not seen them advertise it for awhile}

Scout.

[Stephen Graf]

#63230

I have found that if my arrow is not spined correctly, it can cause excessive wear on the rest.

You may want to shoot a few bare shafts to see if you are getting good arrow flight.

[Wexbow]

#63538

Just to check, but are your arrows vaned? If so they’ll wreck a trad rest. I’ve used plastic adhesive rests in the past for vaned arrows which work ok but aren’t a precise solution. If they’re feathered I’d go along with Steve and check the spine in case you’re getting excessive friction. I currently use a Bear hair and leather rest bumped underneath with tie clip ends. Good luck!

[cavscout9753]

#31422

As for fletching, I’m using 5″ feathers. As for the spine, after everyone I trust whom I talked to, 400. carbon seemed the best spine. It’s a 50 lbs @ 28″ Arrow flight isn’t really an issue at this point. My groups are pretty solid (with the exception of some “rebels” here and there) and that’s usually owards the end of a session when my forearm and fingers are weakening. I am still dabbling with rest options. Seems everything I try wears down faster than it should (or faster than I think it should). Eh, the great experiment continues. Once I tackle this, I will be a very happy shooter indeed.

[George D. Stout]

#31464

Unless you are shooting well over 200 grains of tip weight, the .400 will be too stiff. That is basically a 2117 aluminum and very stiff for a 50# bow and a 28″ arrow. Even a .500 would be borderline stiff without 145 to 160 grains. To add to that, carbon is more finicky at paradox….resisting more, and recovering quicker. If you are shooting 145 to 175 grain heads, then a .500 is better. If 125 grains and a 28″ arrow, a .600 is much more sensible. .400, at the length you give, is no where near the right spine and will certainly erode your rests.

[cavscout9753]

#31526

I am with you so far. My arrows are 30″ with 125 grain. (The added leangth aides in my aiming and gives me a little more stand off that I enjoy) so same holds true?

[cavscout9753]

#31548

Also, and this is honestly not to be argumentive, only I am just not very educated in it; the charts I have read (such as 3 Rivers, etc.) and the guys at the archery shop who pointed me toward these GT’s all aim at 400., where can I find a more accurate spine chart?

[skifrk]

#31560

I went and looked at the photos for a PSE coyote to get a frame of reference as to what might be happening for you and from what I see the riser is a flat piece of metal for a shelf it looks to me like they were almost wanting you to put an elevated test on it. SO if you want to shoot off the shelf you might need to build it up instead of toothpicks which might work I have found hard leather works well such as the one in the link below

http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=3550

Hope this helps.

[cavscout9753]

#31590

I agree. One of the ads actually said it required one, and I mentioned it to one of the gentleman at my local shop (who I trust) and he said that I didn’t need one. I agree with the building it up. Do you or anyone else have a link that shows exactly how to do this? I will say. the toothpick, popsickle stick, or anything similar just didn’t work in my case. Do I place the “bump” towards the front or back of the rest, or center? I am out of my depth here for sure. But you’ve been very helpful, thank you.

[skifrk]

#31625

For the bump I would place in the center with more at the middle then feathering away to both front and back at least this is the way my Bob Lee is designed and shoots nicely. I don’t have link to show its done, will try and look for you later today.

[bruc]

#31681

The feather rest from Three Rivers Archery has a nice little arch to it. Might work ?

Bruce

[cavscout9753]

#31813

Thanks guys! I always turn to TradBow forums when I’m stumped. It seems everytime I draw 24 hour duty at Squadron HQ, with a computer in front of my face for that long I read and re-read almost every thread on here and try my best to soak up as much knowledge as possible. So for now I used a firm foam (basiclly 3M 2 faced adhesive) in 2 layers to creat a hump that comes up to an apex (like a little dirtbike jump I guess describes it best) and form covered it with camo moleskin.I left a slight gap between the hump and the built out arrow plate on the side. Looks nice…which may comfort me when I go to try it out and it fails horribly. I’ll give it a go tonight if I can find something around here to put some arrows into. If that doesn’t work..well heck, I’ll just keep trying stuff until it works. Even with the frustration there’ll never be more than one string on my bow.

[gobbler716]

#32576

When I was looking at the Coyote the adviser told me he would use a New Archery Quicktune, since the Coyote shelf is so far from center. I bought a used Kodiak instead.

[cavscout9753]

#35549

Well I got it figured out! Today everything came together and now I’m driving tacks! Even had to replace my first shot nock since switching to trad. I dug around and found an old baseball mitt in my closet. After removing a good chunk from the palm of it with a box cutter I had amgood sized hunk of quality leather. I trimmed that down and sliced off a small, slender piece of it to create a bump. Some glue and wham-o, a nice, durable shelf rest that is as long-lasting as it is whisper quiet! It looks great and tightened up my group like I wouldn’t imagine! And while I can’t currently prove it, I would put money that my fps has improved. If you have a cut past center flat rest and want to shoot off the shelf, message me and I’ll save you ohhh… About 2 months of trial and error.

[jaytbuzzard]

#35561

As far as the high spot or contact point for the arrow, my understanding is you should have it make contact directly above the deepest part of the handle. If not it can cause problems.

[George D. Stout]

#46148

Directly above the pivot means if the bow is torqued, it won’t move the arrow as much as if it were ahead or behind the pivot. If everything works well in your form, it doesn’t matter as the arrow will leave the bow clean anyway. Some of the old 50’s bows had the high point of the shelf a the back of the bow, and they shot fine. Nearly all problems are operator error.

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