Home › Forums › Campfire Forum › Custom Bow Makers
-
AuthorPosts
-
-
Archery was part of my life growing up. A some point in my life I have shot every thing from a little green fibre glass stick we all had growing up to high end Crossbows. Got away from achery after a bad shoulder injury. But me and my wife have the bug again. The biggest issue we are having is finding the right bow maker. Before we invest $1000 each in a pair of bows I would love to here about good and bad expierences people have had with different makers.
-
For me
the prettiest here
http://www.blacktailbows.com/snakebit-series.html
But from very far those with the best performance are here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m1ad2O7s04
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTM19GvFkQU
Mine is 45 Lbs @ my 28 draw lenght 11 grains / pounds fly 212 p/s
That is about you get with 55 Lbs BW.:shock:
-
thanks Guys to more options i feel like that guy standing in front of the chocolate bar rack “to many choices
-
John –
I have had excellent experiences with the following custom bowmakers:
Dick Robertson (Robertson Styk Bow)
Dan Toelke (Montana Bows)
Jim Babcock (Big Jim’s Bow Co.)
Jason Kendall (Kanati Bows)
I wouldn’t hesitate to order from any of them again.
-
R2 wrote: Just a thought, there are a bunch of very good bows out there that don’t cost $1000. 🙂
Definitely. There are some really good bows out there these days for significantly less.
-
John if you can attend any of the major Trad shoots you can find many different bows and bowyers. I would give as many a test drive as possible. There many different styles of bows and and bow shooters. Not all are a perfect fit for each other. Find what feels good to you and go for it. And do not worry about finding the perfect bow right off the bat. As everyone here can attest to 1 is just not enough.:D
-
Take a few minutes to look at Leon Stewart’s bows. He’s an excellent craftsman and no BS kind of guy. He’s also very active in his local club and the PA Longbow Association. He does beautiful, functional work. http://Www.stewartsarchery.com. Best of luck in your search. Dwc
-
I second Javaman!!! http://www.javamanarchery.com
Gregg is a pleasure to work with and a true artist. His bows are a pleasure to shoot and just as great to look at.
-
Here’s the issue with this I am currently working as a retail manager in Nunavut Canada Some one the best hunting and fishing in the world but it is a fly in only Hamlet so try before you buy really isn’t an option.
Fallguy wrote: John if you can attend any of the major Trad shoots you can find many different bows and bowyers. I would give as many a test drive as possible. There many different styles of bows and and bow shooters. Not all are a perfect fit for each other. Find what feels good to you and go for it. And do not worry about finding the perfect bow right off the bat. As everyone here can attest to 1 is just not enough.:D
-
I would very much suggest starting out with something used, inexpensive, and preferably light in draw weight. I would never, ever suggest someone just getting into traditional archery run out and buy a high end custom bow. I’ve seen a lot of people take up traditional archery, and none of them end up shooting their first bow long term.
Traditional bows are a lot like other items, the person who buys it new and resells is takes the biggest loss. After that, used is used, and you can usually shoot it for a few years and resell it for what you paid. With respect to draw weight, start off light and develop solid form and good aiming. Once you have those skills down, then work up to the draw weight you’d like.
-
Not my first bow. Right now i’m shooting a 55# Martin Jag and a 55# mass produce takedown. The two i am looking at now is ether a 45# bear grizzly or a 45# trad long bow from Great Northern Bowhunting.
J.Wesbrock wrote: I would very much suggest starting out with something used, inexpensive, and preferably light in draw weight. I would never, ever suggest someone just getting into traditional archery run out and buy a high end custom bow. I’ve seen a lot of people take up traditional archery, and none of them end up shooting their first bow long term.
Traditional bows are a lot like other items, the person who buys it new and resells is takes the biggest loss. After that, used is used, and you can usually shoot it for a few years and resell it for what you paid. With respect to draw weight, start off light and develop solid form and good aiming. Once you have those skills down, then work up to the draw weight you’d like.
-
john dilts wrote: Not my first bow. Right now i’m shooting a 55# Martin Jag and a 55# mass produce takedown. The two i am looking at now is ether a 45# bear grizzly or a 45# trad long bow from Great Northern Bowhunting.
Both are exellent choices.
-
I started off with a Fred Bear Montana longbow – well under $400. I moved up to a high dollar Three Rivers Archery Tomahawk SS and love it…Now I build my own bows.
There are so many great custom bow options out there have fun with the search…
-
$1,000 sounds a god awful lot to spend on a bow, but… Those of us who build our own never really know just how much the dang thing cost. Especially if you include the labor (all of the time thinking about it when someone else wants our attention), and redesigning living space to accommodate the “hobby”.
-
The bows you are currently considering, plus all the others mentioned above that I have any experience with, are good choices. But after years of “shooting around” I settled on Java Man (Gregg Coffey, in MI). Last time I checked, a standard bow, most models, is under $700. He builds each one totally by himself, and specializes in short bows that perform like longer bows. The long wait is understandably a put-off for anyone with the need, or the hots, for a new bow.
-
A question for you bowyer types. What purpose is served by the forward handle style on some of the javaman bows? Thanks. Dwc
-
thanks for all your help. I have injoyed loking at all the different bow but in thew end i keep going back to the great northern bow hunting companys sit his long bows seem to have a very TRAD look that calls to me.
Happpy new year
-
dwcphoto wrote: A question for you bowyer types. What purpose is served by the forward handle style on some of the javaman bows? Thanks. Dwc
I’ll be curious to hear what folks with more bow building experience say, but to me, the big thing it accomplishes is is creating a higher brace height. This, combined with other design elements like reflexed tips, can maximize performance (speed) out of a shorter bow.
Some also claim that a forward handle creates more “stability” in a shorter bow, but I’m not sure I’m convinced of that.
-
Smithy,
Interesting. In very general terms, I thought a lower brace height gave more string time and more power out of the bow, but I’m sure this is not an “all else being equal” scenario. Thanks for chiming. best, dwc
-
Yeah, and I’m definitely bordering on talking out my @$$ here, but my understanding is that as with so many things, there are trade-offs with any bow design, and short bows are no exception. Obviously, by its very nature, a short bow will have short working limbs. Short limbs may have other advantages, like maneuverability in the woods, but high performance isn’t one of them, without also adding significant pre-load (D/R). The limbs are the spring – the shorter the range of the spring, the less ‘bounce’ you’re going to get. And so a short bow, with straight, short limbs, is by nature not going to have much of a ‘power stroke,’ making it pretty anemic.
This is also one of the reasons you will tend to see quite short risers on short bows – to maximize the length of the working limbs.
With all that said, a higher vs. lower brace height, and any resulting changes in performance, are really only relative to that particular bow. A 68″ D-shaped longbow may have a “low” brace height of 6-1/2″ while a “low” brace height on a 54″ Thunderchild might be 7-5/8.” Both are still at the “low” end of their particular brace height range, which will typically result in more power, but all things have their limits – if you put the low brace height of the Hill bow on the Thunderchild, you’re not increasing performance at that point.
So yes, a deflexed riser increases brace height on a short bow, in tandem with other design elements, but there can still be an “ideal” lower brace higher height which gives more power for that design.
I might be talking in circles at this point, but I hope that makes some sense?
-
Advantages that I have read (and limited to what I have read, because I have not yet built one)include…forgiving and stable for shorter bows, higher brace height which again with a shorter bow in mind,I believe affects arm clearance and lessens finger pinch due to string angle.
Maybe Javaman – Gregg will share his thoughts
-
Your reply was excellent. I tend to listen in circles so I think I got it! Short story, there’s a lot that goes into these things. Pretty neat stuff. It goes to show you that bows, like archers, are built different, so one for one and another for another. Thank, dwc
-
I think the biggest advantages of a forwared handle are pointability and getting a longer draw from a shorter bow. You don’t necessarily give up very much performance either. Limb profile has a lot to do with that.
Brace height can still be fairly low. I like 7 1/4″ to 7 1/2″ on most of my bows. Higher and lower certainly won’t hurt anything.
Happy New Year,
Gregg
-
Gregg, thanks for your answer. Looks like you do beautiful work. Beautiful meaning functioning and looks! Congratulations on creating a great business for yourself doing something you love. All the best to you in the New Year.
-
John
Well as you have already figured out it’s all personal in this arena and if you can’t get out to shoot some at a trad show–you just have to go by your gut.
I will echo Gary,Brennan, and Dave P, that you sure won’t go wrong with Java man–I have owned 2 used and just got my first new one about 2 month’s ago.
Whatever the decision enjoy the ride:D
Mike
-
Mike, if you need a place to store one of your old ones, let me know. I’d love to try one out some day. dwc
-
john dilts wrote: thanks for all your help. I have injoyed loking at all the different bow but in thew end i keep going back to the great northern bow hunting companys sit his long bows seem to have a very TRAD look that calls to me.
Happpy new year
Northern Mist Longbows would also fit the bill, if I understand what it is your looking for. I have a Whisper, and love it. I also love my Java Man Elkheart! Both bowyers are great guys and do top notch work.
I had never heard of the Blacktail Bow Company…WOW! Incredibly beautiful, and if you have a bunch money laying around that you just don’t know what to do with…
The bow:
http://www.blacktailbows.com/legacy-series.html
The accompanying arrows are at the bottom of that page. :shock::shock::shock:
-
Mike, When I step outside to pee I can almost hit New Jersey. Where are you, Maryland, right? d
-
You’ve already gotten plenty of good suggestions – but one more to toss in the pot is Jared Marinelli at Journeyman Traditional Archery. I bought one of his personal bows from him, and he treated me like I was buying a brand new custom bow from him.
The bow is gorgeous and shoots twice as good as it looks – mix that with incredible customer service and you’re getting more than your moneys worth. I think his run right around $650 and can go up from there based on upgrades.
Stalker Stickbows and Zbowsticks are two more great options. Stalkers in my opinion are the best of the best.
Alex
-
No one has mentioned JD Berry, who makes as good a bow for the money as can be had. Then, there is Howard Hill Archery, who makes as classic a Hill style as there is, Big Jim who makes gorgeous bows, and as has been mentioned, Robertson, Great Northern, Northern Mist, etc, etc. Lots and lots of great bows out there; it all depends on your taste and the depth of your pockets, but an awful lot of tremendous bows are out there for well under $1000.
-
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.