Cedar shaft availibility

[codger]

#5253

Does anyone know a decent place to purchase Cedar shafts? I use dto pick them up on ebay but now there isn tmuch listed but bamboo shafts. ive never used Bam,boo and dont want to buy 100 shafts i knw nothing about. ive never shot bamboo arrows.

not much cedar is available on ebay anymore. I have never tried the fir or other shafting material besides aluminum and thats not realy what i want for a longbow. I was checking three rovers and will have to go over Trad Bohunter ads i suppose.

[smiley1]

#38849

You may want to try Dink’s feather shop. He’s in the classifieds in TBM. Personally, I don’t shoot cedar anymore but when I did I always got quality shafts from Dink. http://www.dinksfeathershop.com. Hope this helps.

Steve

[TurkeyCommander]

#38938

Go with 3 rivers if you want quality shafts. I ordered a dozen over the holidays. 11/32″, 55-60 grains. I had them in under 2 weeks and the shafts were exactly what I ordered and not cracked or warped.

<img src="[IMG]http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy239/bradb171/091516A6-7A84-4A4A-9F0D-61E0DBA88757_zpsti0ohzzq.jpg” alt=”” />[/img]

<img src="[IMG]http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy239/bradb171/9483165A-ABC7-4657-A85F-CBD43265A93C_zpsbgcp5qpi.jpg” alt=”” />[/img]

That’s the before and after.

[Forresterwoods]

#40806

Cedar shafts are unfortunately going by way of the buggy wip. Many 65# bows are needing 75-80lb shafts in 23/64. I use mahagany in 11/32 at spines of 65-70#. Weights close to cedar but much stronger and dont ding.up or split as easily…..Kevin

[codger]

#41141

have been shooting cedar for almost 50 years i really like the smell of cedar when tapering the ends shafts. I never heard of mahogany shafting that sounds cool. so as long as we ar eon the topic how about cresting i havent been able to find decent cresting paint these days. all the paint ive been getting doesnt cover well and doesnt hold up it chips really easily. i find trying to get coverage takes several coats and then it doesnt look decent. i was going to try and find some paint thats not specificly made for archery and see if it held up better but her ein calif most of the opaint seems to be garbage. I repainted my home and three years later it needs a redo. I miss being able to personalize my arrows.

[Forresterwoods]

#41307

Ahh good old California…my old stomping grounds. Too many restrictions on products that cause cancer in rats. Nothing hold up as well as oil based paints. During the 1970’s I worked as a painter in a boatyard and all we used was oil based paints. You should be able to find oil based paints in art supply stores though. Hint: we added Penetrol to the paint so it flowed together better and didn’t have brush strokes. If thick paint from a small tube that artists use just add a small amount of paint thinner…a little goes a long way. Use a hair dryer and have plenty of ventilation for drying and your health.

Kevin

[David Petersen]

#41411

Codger– I second Kevin on POC shafts being gradually phased out by improved knowledge in arrow performance and lethality. If we’re doing it as well (that is, as lethally) as possible, we’re sticking increasingly heavy heads on lighter shafts, demanding more and more from them in that way. No softwood can handle it and I’ve spent a small fortune in money and time proving that to myself of late. If you plan to shoot an old-school setup with medium-weight bow and medium to light (125) heads, cedar works, though even then I’ve found other softwoods to be superior to cedar in general (Sitka spruce for one). But if gearing up for an Ashby-quality arrow, it’s pretty much hardwood or carbon. Then we hit the fix of hardwood being heavier, and heavier shafts diminish FOC. But of the two, I personally put overall weight first. Pleasant smell and what Gramps shot are nice sentiments, not a good basis for hunting-arrow engineering.

Turkey — Those are nice looking plain Jane arrows, the way I like ’em. I’m curious why the sinew wrap in front of the feathers? A style statement, or have you found a utilitarian value for it? I always just put a drop of glue on the front of each quill to smooth out the bumps and keep them from peeling up. Just curious???

[TurkeyCommander]

#41465

I shoot those arrows out of my 60# longbow. I’ve been using POC since I started tinkering with bows and arrows. It was a hell of a lot cheaper to buy up shafts and miscellaneous tools and components from a local archery supplier and build my own arrows, then it was to buy them already made.

For me bow hunting and craftsmanship go hand in hand. Anything I can make myself, I will.

To answer your question about the sinew. I have a bow that doesn’t have an arrow rest, so I wrap them so that when I’m shooting off my hand the fletching doesn’t tear into the skin. Natural turkey feathers when cut into fletchings can be as sharp as little daggers at the pointed end. Also the sinew adds a little extra weight to the end I believe is important.

I have had many successes with my “plain jane” arrows btw. It has been strictly wooden arrows for me. I have never bought or shot any kind of carbon or aluminum arrows.

[Forresterwoods]

#41709

Last summer my dad gave me a couple old bows and some POC arrows made in the early 60’s. The arrows are 5/16 and spine 43# and straight…(old growth cedar). I got a little old growth yellow cedar on a trade and there must be 80 rings per inch! Hard to find that stuff and I envy guys who bought up some older cedar to make their own. I just tested some new cedar shafts…at 11/32 they spine under 40#. Big difference between old growth softwoods and new growth Warehouser trees.Some hardwoods like ash are like shooting golf clubs so I look for ‘soft’ hardwoods.

Kevin.

[codger]

#43505

Im currently shooting my 60# bows again inpreperation to get back into my 70# and above bows. i slacke doff in my shooting and lifting weights due to illness. but now im back hitting the wiehgts and once i feel competant with the kiddy bows ill step back up. thers just something about shooting a high poundage longbow that makes it more enjoyable for me. the writing is on the wall ive got to move to another wood for my arrows.

i guess ill pickup some shafts and see how it goes.

Thaks for all the input and im going to try the art store for some cresting paint i hadnt thought of that as a source for paint. thanks for all the great input.

[Forresterwoods]

#43531

Always fun doing different things with traditional archery. Reminds me of this guy down in Texas who shoots 120 lb longbows…it’s part of his workout routine. As long as he stretches and warms up before shooting he seems to hold up ok.

Kevin

[strait-aero]

#43788

Codger….try Testor model paint for your cresting. It comes with thinner,and is all I use for cresting….Happy hunting!For the paint,that is.:roll: Wayne

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