Carbon arrow saw

[Reddog55]

#5579

I’m looking to get an arrow saw for home so I can start really tuning some EFOC carbon hunting arrows. Would like some knowledge, experience, and recomendations on saws please and thank you.

[Doc Nock]

#42426

Bet you get a lot of advice. I bought a cheap one at the regular old archery store.

Recommend cutting OUTSIDE to avoid the carbon dust in your lungs…nasty!

Don’t try to cut aluminum on the same blade with carbon…seems the blade goes down FAST on aluminum. Maybe that is why the archery shop had 2 saws set up? Might just be the blade I used.

Measure twice, cut once! 😀

[Bruce Smithhammer]

#42481

There was an article in the last issue (?) of TBM about making an arrow jig for use with a Dremel. Seemed like a nice and simple setup.

Also, here’s a link to a thread about cutting carbons with just a file. About as simple as it gets:

https://www.tradbow.com/members/cfmbb/messages.cfm?threadid=87557673-1422-1DE9-ED812C3F79412AEB

[wahoo]

#42663

just recently someone posted about using a file – seemed real slick and easy

[Etter1]

#42811

I cut the half dozen that I’m hunting with this year with just a file. It works just as well as any arrow saw and takes no time at all. I just marked the arrows and then wrapped that spot in two wraps of electrical tape to guide the file and it was 30 seconds per arrow and done. I highly recommend this technique!

[David Coulter]

#42877

That file method sounds like the one to try. I use a simple cut off wheel on a dremel. I measure and mark the shaft with a sharpie and then cut it just a bit long. Spinning the shaft slowly in my fingers I butt the shaft into the dremel to make a nice square end at the proper length. It’s been working fine for me for a few years now. dwc

[James Harvey]

#42902

I reckon the file is great for tuning. I take my file, jig and notepad and put them on top of my target, shoot an arrow a few times, take notes and cut it right there and then, repeat till tuned.

Etter I really like you use of electrical tape as a cutting guide. I’m going to give that a go next time.

[Reddog55]

#43003

Great advise on the file guys. Tried it and it works. What about a tubing cutter like you would use on aluminums? Tried that also and of you take your time it appears to do a pretty good job also. Appears you just touch it up with a file after. Any one tried that?

[handirifle]

#47180

I would be careful filing the cut edges of carbon shafts. Hitting the edge the wrong way willl cause them to splinter.

Cross cutting with the file is less likely to cause that.

[tailfeather]

#62118

Just cut a few with a file and Etter’s electrical tape suggestion. Came out great!

[handirifle]

#11365

Here’s mine. Using a Harbor Freight cutoff saw and a 2″ fiber cutoff wheel from OSH hardware. This thing works slicks, and fast. Clean cuts. It comes with a toothed metal blade that cuts aluminum arrows real clean also, incase you do want separate wheels.

They can be had for about $25 on sale. Put the rest together from scrap pieces I had.

[James Harvey]

#15419

tailfeather wrote: Just cut a few with a file and Etter’s electrical tape suggestion. Came out great!

Yep Etter’s black tape innovation is excellent. I’ve used it to good effect as well.

[plainsman]

#25601

OK gotta try the file thing now. I did not know you could do that with a file.

[plainsman]

#25692

Ok I just whacked out 6 with the file and got em inserted in about 10 minutes. Sweet.

[BuckyT]

#26766

The file trick is very easy. Cut a few myself this way. Nothing to it.

[James Harvey]

#29133

In a typical spat of toddler like ‘I know best’ I decided to go against all conventional wisdom the other day and cut a carbon shaft in a mitre box with a hacksaw. I only used the back stroke to cut and it worked perfectly.

The shafts were Beman MFX Classics, which have some kind of internal tube of something (maybe just a different carbon pattern or something?) which may have helped produce the nice result, I’m not sure.

I ended up doing half a dozen like that and they were all fine. Ran a file crosscut across the ends to clean them up and voila, ready to shoot. It was even easier than the file.

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