Building recurves/longbows, where to start?

[jpcarlson]

#6685

Looking for some direction from the field of experience out there:)

Can anyone direct me towards a good way to build my first bow? I have looked at some of the kits offered by Rudderbows and Bingham Projects. I have been in fine woodworking for many years and have most of the tooling needed I believe. I would like to start with something which will shoot well and not cost me a ton in materials. I don’t mind rounding up pretty hardwoods for the riser as I want it to be asthetic as well as functional and well built. I have heard that once you start building your own bows, it is slippery slope from there:)

Is is easier to start by building one piece bows, or take downs? Recurves or longbows?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Jans

[David Petersen]

#53719

Jans– As one who learned to drive on a stick shift, I am always in favor of walking before trying to run. So I would recommend that you start with either a self bow (one stick of wood) or a wood composite (a wood bow back with wood or bamboo). In that case you definitely need The Bowyer’s Bible VI. If you want to start right off with glass — and we could offer better suggestions if you specify — that’s another volume I’m not familair with. Plus there are some great online how-to’s, some by members here, depending, again, on what you want. It is addicting and all that rasp work is really good for the arms — always kept me warm in my unheated workshop through the coldest CO winters. You’ll have fun. 😀

[Troy Breeding]

#53754

In most cases glass laminated bows are easier to build than selfbows. I’ve made them all and learning to properly tiller a selfbow can be a pain.

Start out with the Bingham kits. Their bows may not be the fastest, but are smooth and stable.

As for how they look? I’m not a big fan of the eye appeal on their three piece takedown recurves, but that too can be changed. All you have to remember is to maintain the limb bed angle on the riser as described in their plans. The rest of the look can be modified to suite you.

BTW, with glass laminated bows the tiller is basically built in with the proper taper and parallel stack.

Troy

[jpcarlson]

#53904

Thanks for the advice guys! My plan is to build one or two this winter, after archery, bird, and smoke pole seasons are over:) I’ll do some more research and get back to you.

Jans

[gigglemonk]

#54812

Ive never attempted glass though I work on selfbows constantly. You cant go wrong with the Bowyers Bibles. If you already have the tools, as you mentioned, you can pick up a straight grained piece of lumber for 5 – 10 bucks that will make a fine hunting bow.

It is indeed a slippery slope. I made my first one years ago for no particular reason, wasnt into hunting or archery. Now, well, hunting, archery, arrow building, string making…. It happens fast!

And no glass has piqued my interest!

[handirifle]

#63024

Plus 1 on what Troy said, in addition, I would recommend one other step.

I made 7-8bows from Bingham kits and they are ALMOST idiot proof, almost, I am proof of that.

If you are an accomplished woodworker, it may not be an issue, but some areas I had issues with were;

making sure the limb faces on the riser are PERFECTLY aligned when cut. Not doing so provides some interesting tillering later. Don’t ask how I know this!

Make sure your limb forms are cut exactly the same. Bingham mentions this but the little paper template doesn’t make it easy. One suggestion I read that will insure this is to make a 1/4″ hardboard cutout of the limb shape. Place it on the plywood form (for a takedown) and rough cut it with a band saw. They say to finish with a drum sander, the suggestion I read suggested using a router with a straight bit and making the hardboard for the guide for the router.

Another version of this makes the hardboard template to include 1/2 of the riser (one piece bow) and drawing a line parallel with the long sides of the form and drilling two holes through the hardboard, and into the plywood form and inserting a wood dowel in each hole. The purpose of the holes and dowels is when you route out one side/limb, you then flip the template over and route the other side.

This will insure they are identical. I hope I explained it well enough.

Good luck, they are fun when you do them right.

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