Bareshafting pics

[Troy Breeding]

#4554

As I stated in one of my other threads Ed had ask me to document some of my bareshafting with pics. After several shots and pics I think I have enough to show everyone.

Hopefully I’ll get this right. It may take several posting to show it all.

To start with, a quick rundown on the shafts.
Victory VMaxx HV 300 with 100gr brass inserts, 190gr glueon point on a 125gr steel adpt. Three inches of 2117 aluminium shafts for the footing. Standard Easton nock.

I’ll start with the impact pics of my shafts before cutting any off. You will see in the pics that I did hit it pretty lucky in the fact that the shafts weren’t that bad to start with.

As you can see the futher I back off the better the shafts fly. On top of that the impact spot stayed right on.
After this I’ll show the results of tuned shafts. Trust me when I say everytime I thought I had enough pics for Ed he would ask for more.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#31611

Now I’ll show afew of the impact shots afew making a 1/8″ cut and two 1/16″ cuts. I started by shooting at 4yds.

Next I moved to 8yds.

As you can see these shots are sticking just about straight in the target. Next I moved to 12yds.

I kept moving back 4yds at a time. Next is 16yds

The final single arrow shot I took was at 20yds

After sending these to Ed I thought I had given him all he needed……NOT!!!!

In my next post I’ll show some really wild stuff.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#31634

Like I said, after sending the last pics I thought I’d given him what he needed.

Thats when he said “show me what you get when you compare a fletched arrow to the bareshaft”

I thought this would do the trick. Twenty five yards with both a fletched arrow and the bareshaft.

Then I added this pic. It’s the same two only at thirty yds.

I took a slightly different angle since they looked so much alike from the rear.

After sending these is when he really threw me the curve ball. He ask if I had tried bareshafting on really close shots. I ask how close since I had already shown him a 4yd shot and he replied “really close, like 1yd, 2yds, and even 3yds.” I told him I’d atleast like to be far enough away to allow the shaft to clear the bow.

He just laughed and said “give me those close shots. You know being that close means it’s harder to miss the critter”.

OK, here we go:

I even did a comparison to help.

Next it was closer:

Even with a comparison:

Now came the part I worried about. I don’t have a micky moused draw and my shafts would barely clear the bow.

Even did a comparison at this distance

After sending him the last two pics he replied “now thats what I’m looking for”. After that he told me that alot folks he talked to about all this didn’t believe you can get a straight impact at such close distance.

Well, I think this covers just about all of my pics. If you still have doubts that it can be done, then stay at it. I think these pics are better than a thosand words.

Troy

[Crystalshrimp]

#31637

Step by step, this is what we’ve been waiting for Troy. And this is Exactly what Bully is has been trying to figure out. It cant get any clearer. I noticed that you pick the less used portion on your Foam Target for your shots. Ill be posting my progress with my Paper tuning and then it looks like ill have to try this method out as well. Now i just have to convince my wife that this is real hard work.

Thanks again Troy!

[Crystalshrimp]

#31642

One more thing, this could be as effective on a new bale of hay right?

[Troy Breeding]

#31669

I’d say yes it would show about the same as long as you shot the side of the bale instead of the face. As you know the face of the bale has the stems of the straw laying horizonal. the side of the bale is the ends of the stems and shouldn’t cause an much resistance to entering straight.

I moved to a fairly unshot part of my target so that I wouldn’t get as much wadding infront of the point causing the shaft to end up cockeyed.

Layered or solid block foam works best to testing.

Still, I’m not looking as much at impact angle as I am shaft in flight. I just used the better part of the target as not to confuse anyone.

My next trick is to figure out how to get the flight of one of my shafts on video. I feel if I can show the straight flight of the bare shaft the question of being correctly tuned will be answered.

Troy

[Crystalshrimp]

#31972

Troy, its obvious to me that the flight of this arrow is sweet. But if you could, would you please shoot through a sheet of paper @ about 3 yards. I know its not your cup of tea but if you can find a little time to do it, I’d love to see the paper tear. I’m having a hard time thinking that the arrow is completely out of paradox at 3 yards or less. That arrow looks perfect in the target.

[Crystalshrimp]

#31975

One more question, at what height is this target you are shooting at. Is it at eye level or are you shooting down at it? Are you shooting your bow vertically or canted?

[Troy Breeding]

#32499

Crystalshrimp wrote: Troy, its obvious to me that the flight of this arrow is sweet. But if you could, would you please shoot through a sheet of paper @ about 3 yards. I know its not your cup of tea but if you can find a little time to do it, I’d love to see the paper tear. I’m having a hard time thinking that the arrow is completely out of paradox at 3 yards or less. That arrow looks perfect in the target.

Leo,
Thats one of the things I had planned to do today. I expected you to ask for it:D. Just got to find some way to make a rack. I know at afew of the longer distance I could see something, just wasn’t sure what it was:?. It was like the shaft was flexing back and forth on the tail. After seeing it several times I considered it to be the paradox of the shaft because it was so slight it was really hard to see.

With shots under 5 yards the action is so fast it was nothing but a blur.

When Ed ask me to do the close shots I almost busted out laughing. I figured the shaft would atleast end up at a slight cocked angle. Talk about being suprised.

As to the heigth of the target? While doing most shots I was aimng mid target. I stand 6′ tall and the top of my target is approx. 5′, so that had me shooting slightly down hill. However, when I did the comparison shots at close range I would squat so that I would be shooting as straight into the target as possible. When I took the pics I would stand up straight so I could get the best angle on the shafts. You will notice that on the 25yds comparison shot I tried to get the shot from straight behind. It made things really hard to see. Just about all you could see of the bareshaft was the nock and a slight glimps of the side of the shaft as it didn’t stick in quite as straight as the fletched arrow.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#32647

Alright amigo here you go. I bareshaft shot thru paper at 3yds, 2yds, and even 1yd.

They aren’t perfect bullet holes and I can’t say if it’s from being ever so slightly out of tune or if it’s something I was doing on release. My finger is still sore from loosing the calious after having them in clorox the other day. It’s hard to really get what I feel is a good release.

I shot twice at all three distance for comparison. The two yard shots were closer than I had planed.

On the 1yd shots it looks like the right shot tore slightly tail high while the left shot tore slightly tail right.

On the 3yd shots the right hole looks good while the left hole shows slightly tail left.

Still for finger shooting I think the shots are pretty clean.

Troy

[Ed Ashby]

#32696

Troy, your next amazing discovery might be just how much penetration gain AT VERY CLOSE RANGE you’ll see with these well-tuned UEFOC arrows. When I was using normal and high FOC arrows, even though those arrows were heavy, well-tuned, carried high MA broadheads and were from heavy draw weight bows, I tried to get my shots out to at least 12 to 15 yards. I’ve often passed up shots at very close distances (especially on animals of large hog size, and upwards), waiting for a shot a bit farther out, so the penetration would be better. On shots closer than about 10 yards there was a very significant decrease in penetration; due to arrow paradox.

A well-tuned UEFOC arrow recovers from paradox so quickly that I have found no significant penetration decrease, even at very close ranges. Pass-through hits are now the norm, even on sizable hogs with 1″+ shields, at ranges as close as 2 yards. Two yards is the closest shot that’s been offered, and it was on a good size boar with a 1” plus thick shield. That arrow passed through the thorax and buried the broadhead almost 3” into a tree 5 yards past the boar. As straight as the well-tuned UEFOC arrows fly at 1 yard I believe there would be a (thorax hit) pass-through, even at that range, on all but a truly super-size boar.

Ed

[Jason Wesbrock]

#32767

Troy,

Those tears look great. When I play with paper tuning, which isn’t terribly often anymore, that’s what I want to see from a few feet out to however far I shoot. It looks good.

Ed,

I’ve always been a bit surprised when people talk about having penetration problems on close shots, having never experienced it myself. As a matter of fact, my heaviest whitetail to date (250-plus on the hoof) died from a shot at five yards, downward, quartering away. With a 475-grain carbon and a three-blade head I took a rib off a vertebra, went through both lungs and the heart, took another rib near the sternum, and buried a few inches in the dirt.

I’ve taken quite a few deer with passthroughs in the five-to-ten yard range, including a twelve-pointer slightly smaller in body size than the deer I mentioned above. It was a hard quartering away shot with a 500-grain carbon with a Zwickey Delta four-blade head. The arrow entered in front of the left hip, passed through all the goodies, exited through the right front shoulder, and stuck in an oak tree.

Both my bull moose and my largest hog were right around ten yards away, and both were passthroughs. I’m certainly not discounting anyone’s experiences, but I’ve never seen any problem with penetration on close range shots.

[Troy Breeding]

#32793

J.

For years I’ve tried to make sure my shafts flew as clean as a fletched arrow out to 25yds. Even after I started using carbons I worked on my shafts until they flew right.

However, several years ago I didn’t. I never bareshafted, I just made sure the fletched arrows flew clean. While on a hog hunt in south AL. I had a chance at a large sow that the dogs had bayed in a creek. My first shot was at approx. 3 yds. It went thru the shoulder of the sow and pushed the broadhead about 3″ out the other shoulder. The dog handlers said shoot her again. By now she had moved away to about 7 yds. After taking the second shot, which by the way hit less than 2″ from the first, I could see it was only hanging in by the fletching. At that time I never gave it any thought. I just knew I had a hog on the ground and we were going to have a BBQ that night.

Now that I’m working my arrows to correct dynamic spine I don’t think that will happen again.

Anyway, after getting the sow out of the water I quickly pulled the second shot out. When I tried to get the first arrow out it wouldn’t move. As it was, one of the handlers was a yound strapping heff of a fellow and ask if he could help. When I told him the arrow was stuck he grabbed it behind the head and ask if he could try. I said go for it and he did. Instead of moving in the sow his hand slid out over the broadhead. The look on his face made me feel like I had a butt wooping coming. Then he looked at me and said “dude, what weight bow you shooting”? when I told him it was only 60# he looked pretty weard. I ask why and he said they had carried out one of his friends that was shooting a 70# wheelie bow with carbon arrows and as he put it “those broadheads that opened like a jack knife”.

Thats when I busted out laughing. He ask what was so funny and that’s when I explained the difference in shooting a heavy arrow with a COC broadhead compared to using one so light it was unreal. After finally getting the arrow out he made the statement that he’d never carry another bowhunter out that wasn’t shooting the right BH and a heavier arrow because the fellow he had carried out with the light arrows was only getting about 3″ penetration on smaller hogs than the sow I had.

Troy

[David Coulter]

#34157

Hi Troy,
Nice photos of some straight arrows. For clarification, in the untrimmed shaft photos, you were shooting at the paper squares. In the timmed shaft photos you we shooting into the foam, but I don’t see a target or a vertical line, so you must be shooting only to show how straight they fly, correct?
I trimmed mine until it flew to the center line and would regularly shoot along side of the fletched arrow, but usually the bare shaft does not fly that straight at all. I notice a bit of corkscrew from my fletched arrow when I back up, but just a bit.
Back to the bare shaft tomorrow, I hope. thanks, dwc
ps. what is your backstop made out of?

[Troy Breeding]

#34292

dwcphoto wrote: Hi Troy,
Nice photos of some straight arrows. For clarification, in the untrimmed shaft photos, you were shooting at the paper squares. In the timmed shaft photos you we shooting into the foam, but I don’t see a target or a vertical line, so you must be shooting only to show how straight they fly, correct?
I trimmed mine until it flew to the center line and would regularly shoot along side of the fletched arrow, but usually the bare shaft does not fly that straight at all. I notice a bit of corkscrew from my fletched arrow when I back up, but just a bit.
Back to the bare shaft tomorrow, I hope. thanks, dwc
ps. what is your backstop made out of?

David,

I’ve used the paper and line in the past. However, I must be honest about all this. To me there is no difference in shooting at the squares than paper and line. If you will notice I didn’t hang the squares by one side. I hung them from a corner. To me I have that straight line when I look at then from top point to bottom point. By doing this I take away the shoot big, miss big problem and switch to the shoot small, miss small results.

Your right about just showing how well the trimmed shafts impact the target. I had already shot one that was fletched and knew it was right.

If your seeing that ever so slight cork screw then I’d have to say your close, but still a tad bit off. I had the same problem with my target arrows. I wouldn’t see anythng until I would back off to 25 or more yards. The futher back I went the better it would show. To correct this I only had to cut the width of the blade off the shaft. You may find that it could take a little more. It’s one of those “it worked for me, but you will have to find what works for you”.

Anyway, take your time. Cut only as little as you can at a time. Better to make several cuts and shoot a bunch than it is to make a big cut and screwup.

That target material came from American Whitetail Target Co.
It’s the same material used in the Block targets. I made a trip to IN and bought a whole pallet of it in the 4’x8′ sheets. Then I cut it into 16″x48″ strips and built the press racks to hold it together. I had these targets in the shooting lanes of my shop while I was in MO. When I got ready to move to OH I sold all buy two and brought them with me. If I watch what I’m doing I want wear them out in my lifetime.

Troy

[Crystalshrimp]

#34317

Troy I have to admit that you’ve set a standard for me as far as tuning is concerned. I know that this is not just a myth and that perfect arrow flight is attainable. Thanks for your time and information that you share. We all benefit from this, especially someone like me that is completely new to this passion.

[David Coulter]

#34703

Ditto! I think I’ll stick to buying the blocks at the end of the season on sale, but that sure is a nice back stop. Hope to tune in a bit more today.

[David Coulter]

#34848

Trimmed just a hair and it actually tightened them up a bit. My bare shaft is not flying perfectly, but it’s sticking into the block as straight as the fletched arrow. Most shot for comparison were within three inches and a couple were practically in the same hole.
I’ll shoot these for a while now before I make any more changes. Thanks! dwc

[Bully26]

#35431

Troy,
This is a great thread, thank you.
That’s what I had been trying to do and you showed it possible.

I don’t mean to make this complicated but… do you have some just paper tuned or just center shot(bareshafted) laying around? Im just wondering if you could defletch one and see how it sticks in your target?
The reason I ask is because my first arrows were fletched paper tuned at just 3ft and I wound up bareshafting the same length. Maybe there is a shortcut?
My tuning is not perfect but my point is that I seem to get the same flight. I get a little low right corkscrew flight at the same length.
Thanx in advance.

[Troy Breeding]

#35491

bully26 wrote: Troy,
This is a great thread, thank you.
That’s what I had been trying to do and you showed it possible.

I don’t mean to make this complicated but… do you have some just paper tuned or just center shot(bareshafted) laying around? Im just wondering if you could defletch one and see how it sticks in your target?
The reason I ask is because my first arrows were fletched paper tuned at just 3ft and I wound up bareshafting the same length. Maybe there is a shortcut?
My tuning is not perfect but my point is that I seem to get the same flight. I get a little low right corkscrew flight at the same length.
Thanx in advance.

Bully,
I’m a little lost at what your asking for. The pics in this thread show how a properly tuned bareshaft will stick in a target. The shafts that went thru the paper were the same shafts. When I would move the paper rack to pull the shafts they would be sticking straight in the target.

You may be asking for something different. If so please explain.

From the way it sounds you may verywell be getting a tail high and left kick with your bareshafts. This will make the arrow shoot as if it is corkscrewing to the lower right. If so, you will need to lower your nocking point on the string. Do this a tiny bit at a time until your shaft flies level with only a tail left kick. Don’t do anything to the shaft until you see if this will work, Then start shortenng the shaft a tiny bit at atime until they fly straight. All these suggestions are for a right handed shooter. If your left handed then your shafts are already too stiff and will require more weight up front.

Another suggestion start your bareshafting at 10yds. Once you clean up your flight then start backing futher from the target. After you have reached say 30yds, then try everything up close and thru paper at say 3yds.

Troy

[Crystalshrimp]

#35530

bully26 wrote: Troy,
The reason I ask is because my first arrows were fletched paper tuned at just 3ft and I wound up bareshafting the same length. Maybe there is a shortcut?

I hate to speak for Bully but since we’ve been tuning together for about 3 weeks now, I Will. I think what he’s trying to ask is, If he is supposed to theoretically have the same flight with a bareshaft as with a Fletched arrow, can he just skip the bareshafting and start tuning with a fletched arrow? Will he reap the same results? Bully, jump in if I’m messing this up. The only thing I might suggest is correct one thing at a time.

[Troy Breeding]

#36068

Crystalshrimp wrote: [quote=bully26]Troy,
The reason I ask is because my first arrows were fletched paper tuned at just 3ft and I wound up bareshafting the same length. Maybe there is a shortcut?

I hate to speak for Bully but since we’ve been tuning together for about 3 weeks now, I Will. I think what he’s trying to ask is, If he is supposed to theoretically have the same flight with a bareshaft as with a Fletched arrow, can he just skip the bareshafting and start tuning with a fletched arrow? Will he reap the same results? Bully, jump in if I’m messing this up. The only thing I might suggest is correct one thing at a time.

Ahhhhh!!! Now I understand.
To put it as simple as possible. Nope….

The reason I say this is really simple. The second the fletched arrow leaves the string the feathers will start to correct the fight. What you are looking for is to have the bareshaft flying correctly. Then, all that is required of the fletching is to correct any possible flutter that might try to redirect the shaft like say the broadhead, or maybe a gust of wind, or even a bad release.

Trying to short cut in any direction is only hurting yourself.

I know from my own trials and errors this may be turning afew of you upside down. Trust me when I say bareshaft tuning isn’t as hard as it seems. Once you get that first correct shaft the next one well come alot easier.

[Troy Breeding]

#36070

Crystalshrimp wrote: [quote=bully26]Troy,
The reason I ask is because my first arrows were fletched paper tuned at just 3ft and I wound up bareshafting the same length. Maybe there is a shortcut?

I hate to speak for Bully but since we’ve been tuning together for about 3 weeks now, I Will. I think what he’s trying to ask is, If he is supposed to theoretically have the same flight with a bareshaft as with a Fletched arrow, can he just skip the bareshafting and start tuning with a fletched arrow? Will he reap the same results? Bully, jump in if I’m messing this up. The only thing I might suggest is correct one thing at a time.

Ahhhhh!!! Now I understand.
To put it as simple as possible. Nope….

The reason I say this is really simple. The second the fletched arrow leaves the string the feathers will start to correct the fight. What you are looking for is to have the bareshaft flying correctly. Then, all that is required of the fletching is to correct any possible flutter that might try to redirect the shaft like say the broadhead, or maybe a gust of wind, or even a bad release.

Trying to short cut in any direction is only hurting yourself.

I know from my own trials and errors this may be turning afew of you upside down. Trust me when I say bareshaft tuning isn’t as hard as it seems. Once you get that first correct shaft the next one well come alot easier.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#36098

CS and Bully,

I’ll give you a fine example of this from my on screw-ups.

Several years ago I built myself a new bow. I built it what I thought was exactly the same as the bow I had been shooting, with only different woods in the riser and limbs. Thinking everything would work the same I only test shot my fletched arrows. From what I saw they seemed to fly the same as they did from the other bow. Afew days later while hunting I had a big doe come in at something like 25yds. Knowing I could easily hit a quarter at that yardage I waited for her to walk into the opening afew yards in front of her. When I turned the arrow loose I thought it was meat on the ground. Needless to say I was badly fooled. My first mistake was thinking with out using me brain. The second was only test shooting the fletched arrows with fieldpoints. From what I saw it looked like the arrow did a big barrel role up and to the right going right over the deers rump. Since that shot didn’t excite the doe I tried for another shot. That arrow did the same exact thing. When I returned to camp I took out my test set of shafts and arrows and did alittle testing. My first bareshaft told the story. Luckly I had brought my other bow. It was already getting time to head bad to the woods and I didn’t have time to fully work out the kinks with the new bow. Since then I want trust even my one eyes with anything other than a fully tested bow and arrow setup.

Troy

[Bully26]

#36180

What I meant was if you had some “tuned” arrows but not the way you tuned them in this thread. This is the first time you tune for a straight shaft at impact, right? Usually its just so that the bareshaft hits center with no attention to nock, right?
Before the above question is answered… there are two types of bareshafting. One pays no attention to flight only that it hits center and the other is into a target adjusting for a perfectly stacked impact?
Thanx in advance

[Troy Breeding]

#36244

bully26 wrote: What I meant was if you had some “tuned” arrows but not the way you tuned them in this thread. This is the first time you tune for a straight shaft at impact, right? Usually its just so that the bareshaft hits center with no attention to nock, right?
Before the above question is answered… there are two types of bareshafting. One pays no attention to flight only that it hits center and the other is into a target adjusting for a perfectly stacked impact?
Thanx in advance

Bully,

No, I think there has been a little miss understanding or maybe not going as far into the answer as it should have been.

I’ll try to answer all the questions in one responce so read it carefully and I think you will see.

There have been afew statements made about hitting center, but not being concerned with how the tail of the shaft ends up in the target. These were made because so many use targets that want allow for straight impact due to being shot up so bad or the makeup of the target.

When I say not to be concerned with how the tail of the shaft ends up in the target, it’s due to these types of targets. I’m lucky enough to have a target that will allow for straight impacts as long as I stay out of the shot up areas.

I also think there will be afew folks that see my first pics and think that they are tuned since they are hitting center. For me this is just about half way tuned. I’ve always tried to tune to the point that my shafts will stick in straight, but that only comes after I have made sure they are flying straight.

The first thing I do is shoot until my shafts hit center at all distance from 10yds to 30yds. I feel this is far enough. Ed says he goes all the way back to 40yds.

After that I start watching the flight of the shaft. I’m looking for straight flight. If I see a kick to the left, then I know it’s still off. I’ll keep working on my shafts until they fly straight out to 30yds.

At this point I will then fletch and watch the flight of these arrows. I’ve had shafts that I thought were tuned only to find after fletching that I could still see a slight kick with. Bareshafts are really hard to see at long distance. Thats why I have made the statement at times about having to trim after fletching.

This was my first time to bareshaft at really close ranges. Ed pushed me to do this. I had never been concerned about such close distance since I knew they were right from 10 to 30yds. It really was a surprise to see then stick in straight. I thought for sure the paradox would still be in effect and they would show it.

Even the paper tune was a shock. Too many verables like fringer release, paradox, and others came to mind when I did it. Now that I’ve seen it, those concerns are gone after seeing the results.

Troy

[Brennan Herr]

#36898

Troy,
I got clean bullet holes in paper with a bare shaft after following the steps…used a fletch arrow and got a 4 inch high nock tear. I am using 3 5 inch banana fletching. I assume they are causing this and if so any ideas on a remedy.

Thanks,
Brennan

[Troy Breeding]

#37283

brennanherr wrote: Troy,
I got clean bullet holes in paper with a bare shaft after following the steps…used a fletch arrow and got a 4 inch high nock tear. I am using 3 5 inch banana fletching. I assume they are causing this and if so any ideas on a remedy.

Thanks,
Brennan

Give us a little more info of your setup. Bow style, bow weight, shaft used, point weight, and if possile afew pics.

Right the top of my head I’d say those hugh feathers are the problem, but if your getting a nock high tear that says nocking point on string is too high. Getting bullet holes with the bareshaft and tears with the fletched arrow could be an indication of drastic change in form from one shot to the next as well.

So many things to consider and pics will be a big help.

Troy

[Brennan Herr]

#37347

Troy,
I use a Kodiak Hunter 46 lbs at 28inch…my draw is 27 inches and I am using CX heritage 150’s with 250 field points, 10 grain rings and 100 grain insert. Arrow is 28 inches long with the 5 inch banana feathers. I have moleskin on the riser and soft part of valcro on the arrow rest.

Thanks

[Troy Breeding]

#37530

What about pics of your paper tuning? Both bareshaft and fletched. Also can you get a pic of your sight window looking straight threw it?

Troy

[Brennan Herr]

#37584

Troy,
I will get those pics posted tonight after work (damn shift work). I was doing some more testing and removed the velcro and put a peice of moleskin on the arrow rest. I took a few shots and noticed the fletching was digging into the moleskin and leaving nice little lines. So I started to twist the arrow on the string and shoot until the arrow was shooting with only a small nock tear high about a half inch or so. Now I am shooting with the cock feather in toward the riser. I then shot at 30 yards and the arrows look outstanding in flight. I am not sure if this is the proper remedy but it seems to help. It appears that the fletching is the issue for now…I am sure tomorrow all that will change LOL.

Thanks

[Troy Breeding]

#37750

brennanherr wrote: Troy,
I will get those pics posted tonight after work (damn shift work). I was doing some more testing and removed the velcro and put a peice of moleskin on the arrow rest. I took a few shots and noticed the fletching was digging into the moleskin and leaving nice little lines. So I started to twist the arrow on the string and shoot until the arrow was shooting with only a small nock tear high about a half inch or so. Now I am shooting with the cock feather in toward the riser. I then shot at 30 yards and the arrows look outstanding in flight. I am not sure if this is the proper remedy but it seems to help. It appears that the fletching is the issue for now…I am sure tomorrow all that will change LOL.

Thanks

Brennan,

I’ve worked on several bows like your. I’d like to make a suggestion that I think will have a great effect on your problem. Since your sight window and shelf are both fairly flat. Try pulling the shelf pad and sight windows pad and glueing down a small piece of leather ( about the size of a boot lace) on both of these. Leave a small gap between them at the joint. Then reinstall your pads. This may cause you to retune, due to it raising the shelf and pushing out the sight window, but it will give your arrow one point of contact on both instead of the whole shelf and sight window. Be sure to glue down the leather at the deepest point in the grip.

I’ve used the technique to solve the same porblem you have on several different bows.

Troy

[Brennan Herr]

#37983

Troy,
Thanks for the advice. I give it a try.

[Brennan Herr]

#38089

Troy,
Here are the pics…the paper is a follows. Right is the bare shaft, center is the fletched with the cock feather out, and left is with the cock feather toward the riser. I think the leather will be a good remedy. What is the best glue to use for this? Thanks again for your help

Brennan

[Brennan Herr]

#38096

Troy,
Here are the pics…the paper is as follows. Right is the bare shaft, center is fletched shaft with cockfeather out and left is with cockfeather in toward the risor. I will try the leather and i think it will work. What type of glue is best for this application?

Thanks again for the help,
Brennan

[Troy Breeding]

#38555

After seeing your pics I’d say the shelf is fine. It has a good radious and should be fine. However, if you notice the sight window is fairly flat and I think the leather will help. Since the leather will be covered with the felt or whatever the pad is, I usually just use superglue. Be sure to clean the surface of any leftover glue from the pad and I usually rough up the surface ever so slightly with fine sand paper. Just rough the finish, don’t sand thru the finish.

Troy

[Troy Breeding]

#26266

Again another pushed up.

Troy

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