Bare shaft tuning question

[handirifle]

#4354

Well I finally got outstanding flight from my EFOC carbons, but I still have a lingering nock high issue. I noticed something on my bow today, and have another question.

The question first. When you tune the nock set location to a bare shaft, do the feathers (when installed) throw it off again? Seems they would kick the tail up a bit, no?

Also, I noticed, that the shelf pad on my bow seems to have a slight edge to it on the belly side. This edge is about 1/16 to 1/8″ thick.

Could this cause my bare shaft nock high issue? Maybe?

When shooting fletched arrows they fly great, but I know the slight nock high has to have SOME negative effect.

I have to mention, that previously I THOUGHT I had tuned my arrows to my bow. The last bow I bare shaft tuned was an old Root recurve, and it tuned perfectly with Easton 2114 shafts. I actually won several local traditional matches with the setup.

Fast forward, I finally bare shaft tuned this bow and it made a HUGE difference in my ability to group arrows tightly and consistently. I cannot emphasize enough to others having issues, to make sure your arrows are truly TUNED to the bow.

I was about to give up on Trad archery altogether, cause I thought I had lost what talent I had.

[Stix]

#30605

Good news on the tuning. I bare shaft tuned my arrows some 15 years ago and the fun factor goes way up when your arrows fly true and on target.

[handirifle]

#30612

Yea I really knew better too. When I tuned the Root bow, I mentioned, that was almost 20 years ago, just stubborn I guess.

I’m gonna work on the arrow shelf today and see if I can make improvements.

[Jason Wesbrock]

#30614

handirifle,

I used to have occasional nock high issues when I shot off the shelf. No amount of tuning could eliminate it until I started shooting with a second nock locator under my arrow. Once I stopped the occasional arrow slide down the serving upon release, and subsequent bouncing off the shelf, my nock high issues disappeared.

If you don’t already have a second nock locator on your string, give it a try. You may be surprised.

[handirifle]

#30616

Now that’s a thought. I will have to give it a try. Thanks for the idea.

[handirifle]

#30739

Well I have FINALLY solved the riddle of this bow. It was the shelf material. I peeled the old rest off and tried a bare shaft, and whoopee! That did it! The stuff was reminiscent of the Bear Hair rests of old, so that was why I bought it in the first place, kinda old school but it was pretty thick.

On the vertical portion, it was peeling off some, so I took off the outer layer of the vertical portion. I left the under layer because it was holding fast, and it has the toothpick in place.

The toothpick is mounted vertically from the shelf up. It’s only about 1/2″ long. The idea for that came from the same place I first learned to bare shaft tune, and that was Ken Becks “Tour and Tuning” video. In that he shows some excellent slow mo video of arrow paradox, and you can see the tuning take place as he keeps shortening the arrow.

His theory is the toothpick keeps the shaft from making excessive contact with the riser of the bow, thus minimizing interference.

I cleaned it all with acetone and I fitted and placed new mole skin on it. I know mole skin is kinda thin, but it’s what I had and it works. I will just have to keep an eye on it for wear.

I tried a few arrows, bare and fletched, and I CAN see a difference. I am jazzed!

My 15yd groups are starting to rival my groups from my Mathews, with all it’s bells and whistles. I know once the target goes back to 20yds and beyond, there is not gonna be similar groupings, but I do expect improvements from my old shooting.

I may never, with my hunting skills, get a shot at a deer with my recurve, but I will surely be ready!

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions, here, and hopefully my stumblings will help someone else along the road.

[Author]

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