arrows

[hunter1]

#2434

I shoot a 55# and a 60# recurve bow, both at 29″ draw. I use 2216 shafts cut to 30″ with 125grn heads. do you think they are to stiff for this poundage.Should i go lighter. I do get good arrow flight from them. If they are to stiff what poundage would they be good for.And what would be a good starting shaft size to start at. I do not have a lot of money to experiment with toomany sizes of shafting.

[David Petersen]

#9813

If you have good flight, what more could you want? Before going to lighter spine, try heavier heads. SO many advantages to more weight up front. d

[Voodoo]

#10412

+1..I agree with Mr. Peterson.

[hunter1]

#10501

i presently use a magnus 125 grn heasd on the 2216 shafts. What grn would you go to . What would this do to the spine of the 2216 if it is stiff now.

[David Petersen]

#10797

Hunter1 — Either buy or borrow some 145 and 160 heads, either field points or broadheads, no matter. Try those and go up even another step in weight if you can. In short, experiment a bit and shoot the heaviest heads that fly well with those shafts, assuming you prefer to stick with the same shafts. A wide assortment of head weights is an inexpensive and essential part of every serious trad archer/bowhunter’s kit. Locally, the only sporting goods shop that handles bows sells only compound arrow-launchers and doesn’t even offer heads over 125. So you may have to get from a friend or mail-order. If you do go up in weight it’s a good time to switch to 2-blades with harder steel (50 rockwell at least). Experimentation with various arrow set-ups is great fun for me and I have little patience for those who say “if what you have works, why bother with looking for something better.” But then, this old fart has little patience with anything! As your signature quote says: “He who dares, wins.” 😛 dave

[6arrows]

#10887

if you get good flight and they bare shaft tested well then dont change a thing cause after all accuracy is what we all want. me i shoot a hoyt dorado with carbon express terminator lites and a 100 grain point at full length and get great flight with those pulling 60lbs @ 27.5 inches my total arrow weight is only 437 grains

[MontanaFord]

#10923

hunter1,

I shoot 60# at 29 1/2″, and both of my recurves seem to like 2117’s with 145-150 grains up front. My cut arrow is about 31 1/2″ long. My uncle shoots 64# at his length (I think he’s about 27 1/2″), and he shoots 2216’s with 145 gr. field tips and 160-170 gr. broadheads. I think the 2216’s could be a bit stiff for your bow, especially with 125 gr. tips. If you could get close to 200+ gr. up front, the 2216’s might just be the ticket for you, though. Good luck. And I know what you mean about experimenting with arrows being expensive…lol.

Michael.

[Fletcher]

#11011

A 2216 is a pretty stiff shaft, about 83 lb AMO. If your bows are cut well past center, you may be alright, but I suspect you are stiff. Good arrow flight can be tough to verify visually. A quick way to check it is to shoot thru paper from 6-8 feet. Looking at the tear in the paper, you will be able to see just what the arrow was doing as it passed thru.

[bruc]

#11976

Can you paper tune with a fletched arrow at 6-8 feet and still see what the arrow is doing:?:
Or just with bare shaft?
Bruce

[Fletcher]

#14411

Paper tuning is done with fletched arrows. That is one of the things I like about it. Rig up something that will hold a sheet of newspaper or butcher paper. I now have a PVC frame, but I’ve also cut a hole in a cardboard box and taped the paper over it. Set the paper up in front of a target butt of some sort far enuf so that the arrow will be clear of the paper before it hits the target. Step back about 6 to 10 feet and shoot an arrow thru the paper and into the target. If your arrows are flying straight, there will be a ragged quarter size hole in the paper. If they aren’t flying straight, there will be a “Y” shaped tear and you will be able to tell where the point and fletch went thru the paper. For a right hand shooter, if the point is to the right, the arrow is weak, point to the left the arrow is stiff. Point low is a nock point issue. If the arrow is very stiff, it is possible to get a false weak indication by the nock end hitting the riser hard enuf to bounce the fletching away from the bow.

I hope this makes sense; it’s pretty late for me to be thinking.

[Ed Zachary]

#14769

One can bareshaft test through paper too. I put a smear of lipstick on the arrow point to help read the paper tear information. Someone here a while back suggested testing through paper at successive distances (6, 10, 15 feet, etc.) to really ‘see’ what the arrow is doing….not a bad idea to rule out false indicators.

I’ve used paper testing in conjunction with bareshaft testing, and have found the paper to more accurately show a too weak spine condition. As they say, YMMV :!::D

[bruc]

#15870

Thanks Ed and Fletcher 🙂
Bruce

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