Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Arrow weight specs ????
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I was scanning a catalog looking at wood shafts in case I get the bug to make up some cedars and noticed that the shafts were ‘matched’ to 20 grains. This raised an eyebrow as I try to match my finished arrows to 5 grains. (2213s, capped, crested & feather fletch, field point or broadhead).
So …………….. How close do you guys try to match your arrow weights ???? Does a 20 grain difference matter all that much in group sizes ???? I shoot everything from 3D, NFAA Field from the grown-up stakes and an occasional American Round. I’ve even been known to set out a man silhouette target holding a Welcome To Agincourt sign on the 100 yard line.
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When I sold shafts I grouped them in 10 grain groups and some of the guys said that was too much of a difference.
I asked every one of them if they mad sure the exact amount of sealant, cresting paint, fletching glue, nock weight, etc. All wood will absorb varying amounts of liquid.
One pound is equal to 7000 grains so 20 grains is very minuscule. My personal experience is I can tell no difference in 20 grain weight. I just try to keep them fairly close.
When you make and sell shafts you have to make hundreds to get them to match and you will wind up with lots of shafts that don’t match up.
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“All wood will absorb liquid in varying amounts”.
That’s some interesting food for thought. It would imply that finished shaft weight could be somewhat adjusted by applying a heavier coat to light shafts and a lighter coat to the heavier ones. …………. Evening out the average weight.
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In my experience, 20 grains or even 50 grains doesn’t really make that much difference. But adding extra lacquer to the lighter arrows will even things out.
Howard Hill used to do demonstrations where he would take arrows from volunteers in the audience and shoot them into the bulls eye. He had no idea the weight or spine or length when he took them. But he could still hit the bulls eye just fine.
All that said, I’ve bought arrow shafts that were graded to be within 10 grains and 5 lbs spine. When I check them they were really within 120 grains and 15lbs spine. If you get into wood arrows, the first things you need are a scale and a spine tester.
Merry Xmas, and a Happy New Year everybody!
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Scale & spine tester I have. Even have a decibel meter. (Yes, heavy arrows do shoot quitter than light ones)
The one gizmo that I regret not getting when I had the chance is a shooting machine that went up to 45*.
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The biggest thing that affects bare shafts is humidity. I can match a dozen shafts to within 5# and 10 grains and ship them to a location with a high average humidity or with a very low average humidity and they will not be the same as when they left my house. The amount of absorption the shaft has depends on the grain structure of the wood. Shafts of the same wood variety will have harder and softer grain and will be slightly different in the end result.
I agree with Stephen as I have shot a mixed weight of arrows up to 75 grain weight difference and not had bad results.
My current woodworking project is restoring my Gt-grandfather’s Slazard violin that is around 140-150 years old. The violin and its case are made of Tiger Maple and Spruce and is/was glued together with hide glue. The many years of high and low humidity changes in this area has pretty much destroyed the holding value of the hide glue. The Spruce case has dried out and split but after a month of work I am finally getting it to see things my way but the violin will be a much tougher and longer work to restore our family heirloom to the point where it will make music again someday.
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Wow, that’s quite a project! I have sold all of the violins we had, one of which was my father’s and the other my grandfather’s. None of the kids had any desire to have or to play them. I hope the buyers are getting good use out of them.
~Kees~
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