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I’m getting back into bow hunting and purchased a used Martin Sereneti. Right off I want to do away with the shelf rest. I’m a little rusty on what is available now. Any suggestions?
I’ve always shot split fingered with a glove and instinctive, even with a compound. -
Vitale — first and foremost, we’re glad you’re here! Thanks for posting. But alas, I’m left to wonder what’s wrong with the shelf? Is it particular bow, or rather than you’re not accustomed to shooting off the shelf? I’m sure there are folks here who will offer alternatives, but a vast majority of trad archers love shooting off the shelf. A bit part of the lovely simplicity of trad archery is that everything is solid and not to break, fall off or etc. That’s also why we mostly shoot feathers rather than plastic vanes — because they fold up going over the shelf and provide better accuracy. So my advice is to work with the shelf for a while and see if you can come to appreciate it. But then, maybe I totally misunderstand your question. In any event, welcome aboard. Dave
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David Petersen wrote: Vitale — first and foremost, we’re glad you’re here! Thanks for posting. But alas, I’m left to wonder what’s wrong with the shelf? Is it particular bow, or rather than you’re not accustomed to shooting off the shelf? I’m sure there are folks here who will offer alternatives, but a vast majority of trad archers love shooting off the shelf. A bit part of the lovely simplicity of trad archery is that everything is solid and not to break, fall off or etc. That’s also why we mostly shoot feathers rather than plastic vanes — because they fold up going over the shelf and provide better accuracy. So my advice is to work with the shelf for a while and see if you can come to appreciate it. But then, maybe I totally misunderstand your question. In any event, welcome aboard. Dave
First I need to learn how to spell the name of my bow correctly:lol: Thanks for your response, I’m just fishing so I don’t have to re-invent the wheel and I need to get the rust out from my lack of serious participation the last 25 years. 30 years ago when I shot a little competition I remembered everyone “jumping off the shelf” and geting spring rests etc. but now I also remember that was when compounds, aluminum arrows and plastic fletching were the in thing. I will take your advice and my next step will be to aquire new arrows with feather fletching.
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ButchMo wrote: got to agree with Dave. The shelf if the way to go. It wou’t fall off or make a noise when you draw. It also puts the arrow much closer to the hand. That will definitely help your shooting.
Thanks for your time and reinforcement Butch. I want to keep things simple and less reliance on technology. Spend more time on practice and the hunt instead of fiddling with gear!!!
So I’m going to need a little help oiling the rust I’ve collected.:lol: -
Let me go see if I can find a 55 gallon drum of good clear oil. That should help clear up 25 years of rust. LOL!!! We’re more than willing to help you, Vitale. Good luck with your shooting. Tell us about your bow. Your draw length, the bow’s draw weight at your length, what kind of bow it is, anything you feel might be relevant.
Michael.
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The bow I’M about to buy is a martin Serengeti, 60″ 50lb draw at 28″ My draw length is 29″ I do not know at this time what LB I am pulling at 29″. I will be going “arrow hunting” in the near future to match the bow and my pull length and feather fletching so I am open to suggestions. Are you guys shooting wood, fiberglass, aluminum. or carbon arrows? In the past I preferred big shafted arrows a little on the heavy side. I am 6’2″ and 230LB
I am currently shooting some aluminum shaft, plastic fletching 2613 superflites by Easton that went to my compound bow. The serengeti is shooting then with a little up and down wabble. But I am just testing out the feel of this bow. Thanks for your imput!! -
Vitale,
You are probably pulling right around 53# at your length. Generally you can figure to add about 3# per inch of length beyond the 28″ mark. Now, that said, as far as aluminum arrows go, from my experience, because that’s where my experience lies, you should be able to shoot 2016 or 2018 shafts out of your bow with a 125 grain tip fairly well. You will have to fine-tune the length, but you should be able to dial either of those aluminum shafts in really well. I would go for the 2018 just because it’s a little heavier, and would give you a little longer arrow. The up/down wobble you’re getting out of your 2613’s is most likely coming from your nock point being a touch out of tune. Do you notice initially your nock being high or low when it leaves the bow? How do they fly from side to side? Just some stuff to look at.
Michael.
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Thanks for the info. Once I get some new arrows i will play with the nock point. Arrows were doing fine left to right.
I’m giving my compound and the other arrows to my son. He started with a cross bow and wants to go compound this year. HE just dropped off two old recurves given to him by an elderly lady he does chores for. She said they belonged to her deceased husband. This is unreal! The great price for the Serengeti and now these two bows. One is a Bear Polar 51# 64″ recurve mt748, the other is a Bear Kodiac 64″ 46# df102 it has a left and right handed shelf. I was destined to go back to traditional shooting. well I have my work cut out before hunting season. I have read some of the other post and gathered some good info. Great web site, Thanks again -
I use Martin Springy rests on some of my Bows with good success! They are almost as Bomb proof an elevated rest as can be found but, nothing is as reliable as off the shelf! My motivation for the springy was the use of vanes only! Some will say that better flight is achieved with an elevated rest. I would only ask them in exchange why they could not achieve excellent flight off the shelf? I can with both systems. Feathers just go along with one strings and finger releases like the birds they came off>>>>>>—————->of!:)
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Nothing wrong with an elevated rest on a recurve; I’ve been using them since 1967 and they work great. They are simple to set up and easy to replace should you break one….which rarely happens. I like the old Hoyt Super Pro Rest…a stick on model that works wonderfully. They also allow for a wider spine variation. Shoot what works best for you…elevated rests have been around for over fifty years.
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George
That is a great looking recurve. What kind is it?
Tom
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Welcome to Tradbow.com I am an old newbie. I bought a recurve brand new in 1965 an am now finally learning how to really shoot it. Back then there was no one around to teach me. Thank goodness for the internet.
Tom
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Hi Tom. That is a Browning Safari I, from the late 1960’s.
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[quote=David Petersen]Vitale — first and foremost, we’re glad you’re here! Thanks for posting. But alas, I’m left to wonder what’s wrong with the shelf?
OK I’m up and running. Just got back from the local archery shop with a dozen gold tip carbon traditional .006 arrows 5575 feathers. I overhauled my shelf rest and placed a small piece of wire at the apex=(underneath) and left room for feather clearence at the right side.
Brought back old memories! wow! Those arrows are comming off the string as pretty as you could ask for. Awesone!! I will stick with the shelf. Thanks to everyone for their input and for a great website which is part of my Favorites list now. -
Glad to help. Glad you got some arrows you like. Good shooting.
Michael.
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MontanaFord wrote: Glad to help. Glad you got some arrows you like. Good shooting.
Michael.I’m totally bummed out!!:cry: I shot my bow early yesterday morning, it did good. I got it out again in the middle of the afternoon. I strung the bow, with a stringer as allways, checked each end to see that the string was secure. Laid the bow down and started putting on my arm guard when I heard a loud whappp. one of the bow limbs had seperated. The bow is destroyed! I may be partially at fault because I left it in the bed of the truck-in its case, in 90 degree heat. We were picnicking all day at the river and I thought inside the truck would be worse. I’m going to lick my wounds for a week or so and then start all over.
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Wow…that is a bummer. At least you weren’t holding the bow when it came apart. Could have been catastrophic for you. At least all you lost was the bow, and not an eye. Best of luck getting set back up. Let us know what your next bow is, and we’ll help you get rollin!!
Michael.
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