Arrow Question(s)…

[lyagooshka]

#6817

I am still trying to put together some wood arrows. I am not that “handy” so I apologize in advance for the “dumbness” of this question, but what is the actual procedure once the arrow is cut and ready to assemble? 😕 In other words, does the stain go on, then the lacquer, or the other way around? What about the dip or crown or cresting? What’s a sealer? How do they affect spine? Also, does the finish go on the very tips where the point and nock attach? What about sanding down in order to get the diameter down? I am looking at 24/64” Douglas Fir with a 110-120 spine for the bow/broadhead I hope to use (as per the spine calculator). My broadhead goes up to 11/32”. How far up should I sand? What finish works with what fletching glue? I actually hope to use tape, so how does that affect what finish I need? Lastly, what is the average GPI for a bare wood arrow shaft (average, I know each will vary). I don’t even plan to get into footing (yet).

Any help is much appreciated, but please dumb it down severely for me. 😳 Step by step is great. Feel free to use brand names or just PM them to me. I just got a set of Al arrows. I love the Al, but I really want to start working with wood. Not even to shoot as much as to just work with. Be well.

Alex

❓

[Goraidh]

#55183

Alex, stain the wood before sealing it. Also, you shouldn’t have to seal the crown with polly, though some do. Do the whole shaft, then cut your tapers and glue on points/heads and nocks.

Have fun—Arrow building can be quite addictive.

[James Harvey]

#55315

Alex, I have no advice to offer as I have also only just recently dipped my toe in the wooden arrow pond. But I can tell you that I am hooked. So far I have only bought some completed arrows from a local fletcher, but I have an order of blank shafts coming and I’ll be going through the same learning curve you are now. So I’ll just sit back and poach all the lessons here 😀

Jim

[Robin Conrads]

#55396

Alex, it’s all covered in The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook. 😀 (Choose your shopping area then scroll down to the books section.) Building arrows is lots of fun!

[James Harvey]

#55621

It is pretty good that book, it should provide most of the guidance I need when I get to work on mine. Two4hooking did a pretty good walk through on his blog as well:

http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/crafting-wood-arrows.html

[Wolfshead]

#55944

I have made a few dozen arrows.

Lots of trial and error….:oops:

I start out and decide which end is my nock end and then I taper it for the nock. (I have only used sure wood shafts, Douglas fir)

Once that is done I measure the crown area I want. It can be as long as you want, I usually go around 8-9″.

The cresting is next, and you can decide on that pattern as well to your own liking and design.

I tape it all off with that blue painters masking tape from GM (I get most of my stuff from Lowes)

My crown I like orange, and the rest of the shaft I stain dark walnut. My cresting is simple black and white.

Once the arrow is taped off, crown painted, and shaft stained, I then use a wipe-on poly to seal the arrow.

Stain and poly are both minwax brand. The paints I use are enamels from hobby lobby.

I personally put on 5-6 coats of poly on each arrow.

Here is how I do that, using 0000 steel wool, I smooth each arrow, add stain & paint crown, let dry, steel wool lightly,wipe off any dusting, apply wipe-on poly, let dry, once dry steel wool again, wipe off dusting, poly again, let dry…. Rinse repeat…:?

Once the required coats are all applied I move to my fletching jig(I use a Bearpaw model, solid well made and inexpensive) I use Bohning fletching tape and Bearpaw feathers. Once the fletch is on I put a dab of gorilla super glue on each end of the fletch. Once the glue is dry you can cut the taper for the point.

I am no expert but this has worked well for me. I have had no issues what so ever with this process and fletching tape and feathers coming off, and I have been purposely rough on my arrows to see the abuse that they can withstand.

I am going to be starting a new half dozen so I will try a “build along”. I have to say that it takes about a week for me to do my arrows start to finish. I also have some new natural turkey fletching I am dieing to work with!

Hope this helps!

Doug

[Wolfshead]

#55978

The first couple are some pics of my arrows I was talking about, the next few are of my quiver and arm guard I also made.

[Raymond Coffman]

#56009

All nicely executed!

I especially like the simple/efficient design of the Quiver pocket closure.

Scout.

ps -judging from some of the artwork shown, it looks like your lineage hails from Wexbow territory -haha

[Wolfshead]

#56037

cyberscout wrote: All nicely executed!

I especially like the simple/efficient design of the Quiver pocket closure.

Scout.

ps -judging from some of the artwork shown, it looks like your lineage hails from Wexbow territory -haha

Thank you!

I do have to say I am not that original as most of my things come from ideas I have gotten from others designs…

I do have a little Irish-Scottish/European, as we’ll as, a family legend that, there is some American Indian in there too. It would be safe to say that I am mostly of mixed breed!:P

[Raymond Coffman]

#56045

wolfshead

your welcome, and your Quiver/haversack etc represents that heritage. A totem, one might say ——

Scout

[lyagooshka]

#56068

Webmother wrote: Alex, it’s all covered in The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook. 😀 (Choose your shopping area then scroll down to the books section.) Building arrows is lots of fun!

Darn it. I haven’t gotten to it yet. I am still on Dunn. Thanks though, I am moving it to the top of the list. Be well.

Alex

😀

[lyagooshka]

#56072

Doug,

Thank you for the advice and pictures. Beautiful. I hope to do a “test” set from some dowels I have, then order some DF in the spine I want and take it from there. Looking forward to it. Thanks again. Be well.

Alex

😀

[Greg Ragan]

#56306

ausjim wrote: It is pretty good that book, it should provide most of the guidance I need when I get to work on mine. Two4hooking did a pretty good walk through on his blog as well:

http://traditionalknowhow.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/crafting-wood-arrows.html

Thanks for the props! Just a short walk through though…

This stuff isn’t hard…..just time consuming. But FUN!

My latest hunters:

[Ben M.]

#58063

Some downright pretty arrows, right there. I love the look of wild turkey feathers, the variety and randomness they bring to the arrows. I’m putting up signs all over town this year asking hunters to save the wings for me. Hoping for a large response!

[wahoo]

#58081

thats it getting rid of carbons going back to woodies . I also use TJ’s book. Important to know or align the rift of the wood with the bow in case of breakage.

[Ben M.]

#58181

Searching blogs like Two4’s is the way to go here. After you’ve mastered assembling manufactured arrow components, you’ll probably find yourself meandering in this direction: Jackcrafty’s stone age arrow build along.

[lyagooshka]

#58468

Ben,

Great link. That is my ultimate goal with respect to wood arrows. I think I have bought my last set of Al arrows. I still may be taking them to Canada with me for moose, but I think I will just use the Al for target / stump / “plinking”. I’m going to hold off on my order for DF wood shafts until I can play with the spines a bit and see what my new bow (coming soon 😛 ) will “want”. Thanks again for the post. Looking forward to the experience. Be well.

Alex

😀

[Greg Ragan]

#60896

Putting a good 10 or 12 inch nock taper will also really improve flight & how forgiving (spine tolerant) the arrows are. 11/32 diameter on the point and 5/16th on the nock end. I tapered those turkey fletched arrows and will be doing that from now on!

[lyagooshka]

#60954

I just want to make sure I understand (sorry if I am being real dumb here). The point end is 11/32″ and the nock end is 12/32″? I am assuming you meant 5/16″, but I have learned not to assume. I believe Benny Hill taught me that one. 😆 Again, just making sure, but I never want to assume any more. Be well.

Alex

❓

[Greg Ragan]

#61711

lyagooshka wrote: I just want to make sure I understand (sorry if I am being real dumb here). The point end is 11/32″ and the nock end is 12/32″? I am assuming you meant 5/16″, but I have learned not to assume. I believe Benny Hill taught me that one. 😆 Again, just making sure, but I never want to assume any more. Be well.

Alex

❓

Sorry yes, my fingers got away from me. Taking an 11/32nd shaft and tapering the last 10 or 12 inches down to 5/16th.

i made this jig for it and chuck up the shaft in my drill…..makes short work of a dozen.

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