Arrow left, too stiff

[Gorbin]

#5296

Hi guys, I’m tuning a new batch of arrows (Easton Heritage 1916) to my Bear Montana (45 lb, 27″ draw). Im using a styrofoam Big Block target, which works real good because the arrow stays in position after hit unlike my bag target which droops at times. I used Stu Millers program starting out and it gave me 28.75″ arrow length with 145g head. After a few shots consistently nock left (I’m right handed) I realize the shaft is too stiff. Tried a 175g head which reduced some of the left leaning but still not right. My question is: is there some known equivalency or ratio to length and point weight (grain)? If jumping to 175g from 145 produced maybe a 50% improvement (reduction in left lean) and I don’t want a heavier arrow, how many inches should I leave arrow length, at least to start with?

Gorbin.

[Hiram]

#39227

Nock left? That would indicate a weak shaft! Something is weird, your length of 28 3/4 should be close. How are you measuring your draw length?

[Gorbin]

#39235

Oops! Got that backwards. I measure from bottom of nock throat to rest edge at back- 27.5″ and adxed a bit for clearance. So I should drop point weight to say 125 or 100? Or maybe lop off a1/4 or half inch if I want heavier head for hunting.

[Gorbin]

#39307

OK- so I grabbed some points and ended up with the nock being slightly to the left of the point as it sticks out of the target with a 100g, and slightly to the right with 75g. So, wanting at least a 125g head (most popular/abundant choice for hunting heads) what should I trim off?

[Hiram]

#39537

First, lets establish a couple of things. When you say the “back” do you mean the front of the riser? Remember the front is the Back of the Bow, and the rear is the belly. Ok, assuming from your explanation, your at 27 1/2 to the front of the riser when you draw the arrow completely back. If so, then add at least an inch of arrow to protect your fingers from being cut by broadheads! So your total arrow length is now at 28 1/2? To eliminate any vertical(porpoise) problems, I can assume you have bareshafted an arrow and set your nock heuighth correctly for straight arrow entry in the vertical plane? If you have, OK ready for horizontal. Assuming you have done all this, and have now established that you are too weak with your heavier tip weight, you have correctly went to a lower point weight and found that your shafts are showing too stiff with the 100? and have assumed that 125’s will tune just right. If this is the case, you have arrived at your own conclusion correctly! Questions? Be glad to help you, ask and we will help! No question too dumb, believe me, we all started out asking them ourselves if we were smart enough to, LOL:D

[Gorbin]

#39837

Yes, I do mean the back and not the belly; edge of riser furthest from me. And yes, full arrow length would be, adding an inch for clearance, 28.5″. But I cut my test arrow to 28.75, however, in accordance to Stu Millers program.

The nock is set properly and the arrow is good vertically.

I put a 125, 100 and 75g field points on taking several shots each. I’m doing this all with a single unfletched arrow. With the 125, the nock was consistently left of the point when looking at the target straight on. The 100 was also, but only slightly. And the 75 was slightly to the right. Ahaa- I’m a rocket-surgeon! The arrow at it’s current length is too spine weak.

So yea, I got to this point and at least the fog of internet info overload is starting to clear- man, it’s almost too much. Anyway, now I need to figure out how much to trim off so I can use a 125 head and get that straight-as-an-arrow flight that is so cool to watch flying off my own bow. I’m thinking 1/2 inch.

And thanks to you, Hiram, for freely sharing your knowledge! Trad guys, I’ve learned, are an eclectic bunch with some pretty strong in their ways and opinions. But all so far very helpful and encouraging. What a great community!!

[trapperDave]

#40054

easier to tweak your brace hgt

[Hiram]

#40433

Trapper Dave has a good point here! Raise your Brace height to weaken, lower it to strengthen. This moves the bend in the shaft either forward more toward the middle, or rearward. You can also adjust the horizontal a little outward to offset the linear path a little, which will strengthen the shaft. Go a little lower on your brace height and see if that helps. Do one thing at a time/shoot.

[Gorbin]

#40453

Will do with brace height, thanks! Just lopped off 1/2 inch- I read on another site (tradgang or stickbow, cant keep up with my own surfing!) that 1/2″ was approximately worth about 50g, and since I want the flexibility of shooting heavier than 100g heads I skipped the incremental 1/4″ chop. This is as short as I want to go however. My next question is about feathers: I’m going to use three 5″ shields offset. Will this stiffen or weaken spine and/or is it even enough to think about while tuning?

[Hiram]

#40512

It will stiffen you a little! Bet with the shorter arrow and fletching you should be close enough to tune the weakness out. Until fletching, simulate them by wrapping some black electrician tape on the shaft the first 5 1/2 inches.

[Gorbin]

#41540

Ok guys- just want to put down some conclusions/revelations from a noob archer who’s past few days of tuning drama has caused more than a bit of brain damage (I’m still twitching!)

First off: bare shaft tuning a LONGBOW is only good to get you in the ballpark, if it’s a BIG FREAK’N BALLPARK!

Two: 5″ Shield cut feathers stiffen things up A LOT!

Three: While I’ve read that many of you really enjoy the tinkering, tuning, fussing, etc; me, not so much.

Four: The process, while aggravating for a noob like me, is WELL WORTH THE TIME! I learned more about my bow and gear in the past few days than I did in the previous months of web crawling/books/you tube vids, etc.

And finally, the most important thing: OLD SCHOOL TRAD ARCHERY KICKS ASS!!

Big love my brothers and sisters of the bow,
Gorbin.

[Patrick]

#41577

Here’s an awesome article about bow set-up, which includes tuning (specifically posted it for the bare shaft tuning section) for ya: http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

(better late than never…sometimes)

[Hiram]

#41651

Gorbin wrote: Ok guys- just want to put down some conclusions/revelations from a noob archer who’s past few days of tuning drama has caused more than a bit of brain damage (I’m still twitching!)

First off: bare shaft tuning a LONGBOW is only good to get you in the ballpark, if it’s a BIG FREAK’N BALLPARK!

Two: 5″ Shield cut feathers stiffen things up A LOT!

Three: While I’ve read that many of you really enjoy the tinkering, tuning, fussing, etc; me, not so much.

Four: The process, while aggravating for a noob like me, is WELL WORTH THE TIME! I learned more about my bow and gear in the past few days than I did in the previous months of web crawling/books/you tube vids, etc.

And finally, the most important thing: OLD SCHOOL TRAD ARCHERY KICKS ASS!!

Big love my brothers and sisters of the bow,
Gorbin.

Nothing like an arrow flying true!

[Patrick]

#41669

Hiram wrote: Nothing like an arrow flying true!

Amen to that!

[Gorbin]

#41691

Its amazing how demoralized I was feeling thinking I just bought a batch of the wrong arrows. Then I fletched it up and, BOOYA!! My arrow was flying like an arrow!

Hiram, thanks again. And you too Patrick- I checked out the link and will give it a good read this weekend. But right now its time to fletch up anther 5 arrows and shoot!!!!!

Gorbin.

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