Arrow Flight

[ssumner1]

#3740

I purchased some new carbons and a hill bow at 75#. It shoots nicely, but I notice some odd flight from the arrows. The arrows upon flight and a little added distance, say 20-25 paces will have the arrow make large circles on the nock side while in flight. The only way I can explain it differently would be that the arrow is a stick that I poked into the ground, and with the nock side in my hand, I make wide circles so that the shaft of the stick would bore out the whole wider. That is what the flight looks like to me. I noticed that my nock point is a tad low on the bow. I also noticed that my fletchings are on the shelf prior to draw. Will that cause flight issues?

Thanks guys,

-Andrew

[tombow]

#24839

Unfortunately, going to need specs: draw length, which carbon’s, insert weight and point weight to fully guage correctness for you and your bow. It may be a spine issue. I spine tested my 500 shafts and they came out stiff, closer to 400 spine. Also, “New” carbons diameter may be smaller than what you had previously been shooting, which puts the point more to the left for a right handed shooter. There’s a few possibilities for you. The Center-cut of the shelf/window will effect which spine. The less center cut windows (cut left of center for a right handed shooter) may require a less stiff shaft in order to produce the correct paradox-flex of the arrow while providing quick recovery (straightening of the arrow shaft after it clears the bow.)

Play around with your nock point, work on one thing at a time as “circles” sounds like you have a nock point height and spine issue. You may be able to tweak the spine by building out your sight window a bit. More answers/possbilities to come I am sure. Best of Luck.

[Stephen Graf]

#25447

If you have a bare shaft, try shooting that into your target. If the arrow impacts nock left, it is weak. If it impacts nock right, it is stiff. It is best if you can see it fly and not depend on the impact to show you what’s going on.

After you get the left/right issues resolved, you can worry about the up/down issue.

Easton makes a nice tuning guide that you can download from their website. Give it a read.

75lb is impressive! Don’t ruin you shoulder…

[Bender]

#25711

The tuning guide Steve mentioned is excellent. However it pretty much operates upon the assumption that you’ll be using an elevated rest and plunger. Here’s a link that has a tuning guide geared more for those of us who shoot off the shelf. Read it all the way through first. Then go back and follow it to get your arrows tuned.

http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

[Raymond Coffman]

#25793

ssummer1 –

If you don’t already have it, I would suggest getting a copy of –The Traditional Bowhunters Handbook by TJ Conrads–. A lot of helpful info for people starting out and a great ref for us older Geezers.

It has been a while since I shot a HHill type longbow – but you might check with the maker on proper brace Height. I don’t believe the fletch should be touching/on the shelf? sounds too low.

Scout

[ssumner1]

#28325

Thanks for all of the advice and sorry, but I have not been able to log on here and check out what you guys have said. I went to the local training wheel bow store, and was able to shoot in there indoor range. I found that my nock point was off and I fixed it. I also found that when I shot through paper the arrows were shooting nock left and the tear was about 6” in length. I have yet to resolve the issue. I will now check into what you guys have referenced and see what I can learn. Thanks guys.

-Andrew

[Raymond Coffman]

#28748

Ssummer –

If the tear was 6″ left sounds like underspined arrows, check brace height–

Scout

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