Home › Forums › Campfire Forum › Arrow build help needed
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Hey everyone still new to traditional archery and I would like to build my first arrows but I have some questions but I don’t know anyone who shoots trad gear. I have a list of what I want to use just not sure about some variables. My bow is a galaxy ember r/d longbow 60# @28 my draw is 25.5. I want to use black eagle vintage arrows 400 spine with 125 grn inserts and a 150 grn head I would like to keep the arrow as long as possible for the weight is a 400 spine going to be to weak? Any input it appreciated thanks!
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Hi Kit
It might be a little stiff. According to the Black Eagle chart and a 54 lb bow ( next paragraph ) you are 400 at 26″ length with a 200 gr pt. You are using 275 so it could tune ok . Below is an example of one of my bows –
Your bow is probably pulling 54/55 lbs at your draw ( 2-3 lbs per inch loss from 28 depending ).
I have a 53*lb rd bow ( I draw 26 +-) it likes an axis 400 ( 28 1/2″ shaft length – 31 3/4″ with a meathead attached) with 400 grs up front ( I wanted to break 650 total arrow weight – bone threshold ) for efoc. Total arrow weight is 680 +-. You don’t need to do this – it is an example. Arrow length is not always what i thought it should be but what tuned best . Within reason .
All this is best guess as each arrow make, bow and archer are variable. Experimentation is the name of the game.
Scout aka Ray
* that is what it is marked but it seems stronger
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Scout
thanks for the info, do you think it would be a safer bet to get 500 spine arrows or just keep adding inserts into the 400s I can get them in 30 50 and 75grn , I have never tuned arrows so I’m not sure which would be better to do.
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Kit
What I do sometimes is get a couple of shafts of each spine, build them up and see which works best. 400 and 500 here.
You can also order a test kit from most outfits that give you arrows and or shafts in each spine to see what your bow tends to like – then go from there –
Scout aka Ray
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Kit
You only need a couple arrows of each spine to make up your arrows to experiment- tune. Which keeps the price down. You need them a little long so you have room to cut. Carbon dust is not good so you would need proper masks to do it yourself – you can do it with a file by the way—
Scout aka Ray
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Kit
What arrows do you have now?
You could probably get your nearest archery shop ( even if they are not traditional) to build you a couple of experimental arrows to start – since you want carbon-just have them put feathers on instead of vanes. It would give you a place to start.
Scout aka Ray
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You bet Kit
I think a test kit is the way to go – it allows you to find the best shaft for your bow with the weight and broadhead set up you prefer. Keep us posted.
Scout aka Ray
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Hey everyone I’m trying 500 spine and total point weight is 315 I have cut to the point where it’s only 1 inch past the end of my shelf arrows are 500 spine I’m a lefty and getting nock right and a little high 60# at 28” my draw is around 26
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Hi Kit
Did you start at this length of shaft ?
If it is just a little bit Nock high right – try adjusting your nock ( lower) point and ( lowering ) brace height slightly — this can handle minor adjustments.
Yes, I saw you were a southpaw
Scout aka Ray
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Outstanding, glad to help -have fun shooting them
Scout aka Ray
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Kit, this is always interesting to me. When I built my arrows it was a real quest. Troy Breeding was active on this site and he was a great help as Scout and Steve are now. I have not messed with my recipe since. I’m in the same neighborhood as you, 635 gr with about 28% foc. They fly great and work really well when I hit the deer. Actually, they do their part when I miss, too, ha! It’s a great adventure and I can see why some guys keep experimenting. It’s the quest. Personally, with all the other things I have going, I’m good with what I have. I’m also a one bow guy. One bow, one arrow. I keep thinking about getting some wood shafts and trying to work something up and I don’t. The wood arrows I started with, 3River Hunters, fly a foot and a half to the left no matter what point or how long I leave them. Funny, they flew fine out of my recurve which is about the same #.
It’s a great adventure making the magic work.
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David
I am shooting a 68 – 70 spine tapered cedar shaft 29″, with a 225 tuffhead attached ( 31.75 shaft with head ) 3 5″ shield fletch. 658 grs total weight – shoots good out of my 53lb shrew.
Scout aka Ray
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Yes, a R/D longbow, Stewart Slammer, rated at 46#. Beman Bowhunters. These were the about the lightest I found and the least expensive. This gave me more opportunity for EFOC and to save a few buck. They work really well and seem to be very durable. I don’t shoot them into cement blocks for testing and occasionally I snap one off while stumping. Seems the least favorable situation for one is when it glances off a sapling and immediately sideswipes another one. I think the weak point is about 6 inched up from the head. They just can’t take that strain, but otherwise they’ve been really tough. For stumping I put nock collars on both ends. I’ve had the nock split the shaft ever so slightly on impact. I thought that would only happen on the front end but that little bit of weight stopping so suddenly really has a charge. I used to shoot aluminum before carbon, buy left over lots on the auction. They flew grew but I was destroying them in the woods. I hesitated on carbons at first due to the cost, but they certainly have been far cheaper due to durability. One of these days I’ll get a wood test kit and goof around some more. It’s too close to hunting season now to make any changes. I’m shooting really well and don’t want to mess with the mojo! All the best, dwc
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David
I found the same thing to work best . I built stumping arrows out of carbon w/ collars and they hold up very well. Sounds like you are ready for the fall! I shoot R/D long bows ( actually short ones- centaur and shrew) also . Starting to ramp up my shooting for the fall –
Good luck ( Beuna Suerte) to all this coming season —
Scout aka Ray
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