Troy Breeding wrote: I’ll say it again, never try to start out with a precut to length shaft.
I just went thru all this with Ron at KME. It’s easier to tune the shaft to the bow by cutting small cuts off the shaft than it is to try and tune the bow to a precut length shaft.
Now to the tuning. It’s just a guess (because everyone shoots different), but the 7595 may be alittle bit stiff. The 7595 is a 340 deflection.
The reason I say that is your draw length and point weight.
If you have any of the 7595 shafts in full length start with one and see. If at full length the shaft shows stiff then drop to a 5575 and work your way shorter and shorter until the flight becomes clean.
Now, don’t be fooled by how the shaft sticks in the target. Sometimes stiff shafts will kick off the sight window and give the appearance of a weak shaft. One way to tell this is to rub red lipstick on the back half of the sight window side of the shaft. If you see lipstick on the sight window strike plate after shooting it tells the truth on what is really happening.
The external footing are used to support the shaft behind the insert. With extra weight up front the inserts are easily pushed into the shaft when something hard to hit, plus it helps prevent breaking of the shaft behind the insert.
Steel adapters are highly reccommended. Alumium adpt. are one of the leak links in any setup.
I totally agree. Troy is spot on.