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Dave, you have the right method down. I routinely use layers of tape to build the arrow plate out when I need to tune in an EFOC arrow that’s shooting just a bit weak spine.
Jason, I should have made that point more clearly. Glad you added it! In the first post on this thread I put what I meant – “When a bow is TRUE center shot – that is, the center line of the arrow precisely aligned with the bowstring – it can cause problems with arrow tuning and arrow flight.” – but really should have mentioned that center cut and center shot are not the same thing. Thanks for the add-in and clarification. It’s an important point for trad shooters, shooting with the arrow in contact with the riser. Its real easy for filks to confuse ‘center cut’ and ‘center shot’.
Along this same line, whenever the arrow is in contact with the bow’s riser don’t overlook that shaft thickness also affects the degree of center-shot, and becomes a factor in tuning. The larger a shaft’s diameter the weaker the dynamic spine required to tune perfectly. Conversely, the thinner the shaft the stiffer the dynamic spine will need to be. The center line of the thicker shaft sits further from the center line of the bowstring, and it will have to flex more to clear the riser and flex back for perfect alignment. The thinner the shaft the closer its center line will be to the bowstring’s center line, and the less it must flex to tune correctly. Applying this to a ‘traditional’ riser cut beyond ‘center’, to ‘true centershot’, that ‘true center shot’ will be correct for only one diameter of shaft. Use a shaft having a greater diameter and the bow is no longer ‘cut to center shot’. Use a shaft with a smaller diameter and the riser is now cut ‘past center shot’.
Ed