E1,

Don’t over-interpret that. I used Troy Breeding’s tuning guide for EFOC shafts on Tuff Head site.

Drew his recommended 1″ vertical line on a piece of paper…tuned each arrow (one at a time) to perfect nock orientation in a NEW foam block target from cabellas. Otherwise, nock orientation depends on the continuity of the material it’s pushing into in the target.

After getting them flying “perfect” to the eye at 10-15 yards, I moved back to 20-25 yards, ala Troy’s guide. Whoops! I could see them tailing about 5 yards from the target, which didn’t appear till I stepped back.

They recovered (carbon do that nicely) and stuck in the vertical line pretty well, nock straight out and level, but….they “kicked” in flight!!!:shock:

I shoot lower draw bows (47#) so I don’t want arrows wasting energy with arrows that behave badly and flip around burning energy like a NASCAR driver behind the pace car keeping his tires clean…

That’s when, given I shot those errant arrows over, and over and over and kept records by the #’d shafts, on my “hand-done table” (spreadsheet?) to make sure it wasn’t me… I started cutting 1/16″ off each one of the three that kicked consistently, and re-shooting over and over. TINY increments with carbon can change spine BIG TIME… proven it more often that I like to admit…:roll:

So I cut FROM THE REAR on bare shafts,(already had my over-footing and inserts glued in) cutting only 1/16″ at a time. All still hit where I wanted, but I could see that “kick” (read about it in Troy’s guide).

One saw blade width cut on one was enough and I shot and shot that arrow with no more “tailing”.

Next one a single 1/16 didn’t make tailing go away so I cut it ANOTHER 1/16 …then shot and shot and shot and it was behaving nicely.

Last one, kept showing snotty flight down range where it would kick, so I cut it until it stopped…but trust me, there were MANY slow, careful shots between cuts!!! And I kept records to ensure it wasn’t just ME… I tend to get sloppy when I’m tired and this whole process was spread out over a few days, thank you very much! Ugh… but it’s worth it (to ME) for the extra confidence when shooting thru holes in brush, etc, to know I won’t get some goofy “kick” within my normal hunting distances!

IF that isn’t enough to make your eyes cross, I started all over after I fletched them with broad heads! I just left an extra 1/4″ between rear of shaft and where I normally start my fletches at the rear, and it worked out fine… actually, I didn’t need to do anything more with fletched and BH’s… Guess Troy knows a few things about tuning.

Worked for me. YMMV