I think you can. Recommended brace heights are just that – recommended. But I’ve sometimes found that a particular bow shoots best a little above or below that. I just wouldn’t wander too far out of that range.

Always seems that whatever is shared, someone can refute it or challenge, but I’ll throw my hat in the ring.

Many of the bowyers I’ve worked with “estimate” the best brace and publish a range like 7-7 1/4″… and will acknowledge that different shooter’s release, grip, follow thru can change what works best, flies best and is most quiet.

Only one I’ve come across who actually TINKERS with each bow before it goes out and finds the “sweet spot” is Kirk Lavender at Bigfoot Bows.

He shoots arrows that you tell him are your draw length and spine/weight and tries to find the brace that works best for your set up.

He was spot on for me…even with a higher performance string I bought after-market.

YMMV…

Brace can be tricky. Our bows are very simple machines, but there are a lot of nuances that we can tinker with to change things!

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Troy Breeding once told me in passing that if he drags his ring finger slightly he can change how the arrow flight registers for spine! 😯

I don’t think I’m even that aware of what finger is doing what when i release… Crikey! 8)

Kudos, SB, that you got it where you got good flight, quiet flight and decent grouping! They all seem to go together…find one, finds more than one! Congrats!

When you change the brace height, you are also changing the bow pull weight, Changing the B. H. is part of tuning your bow.

My cheat sheet says one of the reasons, for left arrow,,is pulling the drawing hand away from your face upon release. Also as indicated,,,Incorrect string alignment. I put 1/4 in thick 1/4 wide, elk hide strips under my shelf pad, and under the sight window pad, that straightend up my shots also.