I have a compound thats 60 and have shot that weight for a long time. I can sit down, hold that compound straight out in front of me and pull it back without having to push pull or strain in any way. I’ve shot traditional bows around 57 or so but now shoot around 50 to 52 pounds. Looking back that 57 was to heavy and I shoot the 50 to 52’s a heck of a lot better. So, I guess what I’m saying is go 8 to 10 pounds lighter if you can handle that compound like I do.

As far as bows go? Thats a toss up, there are so many good recurves on the market to choose from. The most important thing I’ve found though is the handle. You want something that fits you so it falls in the same place every time. If it doesn’t, at least for me, I get torque and the arrows go left or right to often. Maybe you can find a local traditional shoot/club and go try some out to find what you like.

I’ll tell you my current favorite bow (I own six recurves and one longbow) is a 1966 Browning Explorer I paid $110 for. It’s 56# at my draw weight and will push a 650 grain arrow with sharp single-blade broadhead well beyond the off-side of a 200# whitetail. It is as fast and enjoyable as my custom recurve, though a tad lighter in draw weight. I would recommend you check out some of the classifieds for used bows.

And that way, if you find it’s not for you, you can sell it for what you paid for it. As noted above, recurve grip styles vary tremendously and they don’t all have universal appeal.

When I was bouncing between recurves and compounds I found it took as much effort to shoot a 70# compound with 30% letoff as a 50# recurve. Don’t overbow yourself starting out.

I’ve hunted for a number of years with several different types of compound bow. For a new challenge/experience, I decided to hunt with a recurve. I did a lot of research and was in the same boat as you…I couldn’t justify paying a fortune for a recurve that I may not even enjoy hunting with. Long story short, I purchased a Bear Kodiak Magnum, @ 50 lbs. a few years ago. I’ve killed a few deer with it and have enjoyed carrying the recurve (it’s amazingly light to carry compared to the good old compound).

I do still hunt with both a compound and recurve, and enjoy both, but it sure is fun to target shoot (including arial targets, etc.) with the recurve. It’s a hoot. I have a feeling that you will enjoy it too.

2 cents before I run out of spare change. 😛

Within the world of “faster is better” bows of today, too many over look the fine shooting capabilities of bows from “before compounds”.

The feel of an old timer bow, oft times available on “the auction” for less than a 100 bucks, is not too far off from one made today selling for many times as much.

Two of my current bows are even from the 50s . Old and worn the are still worthy of shooting and perhaps? a little elbow grease invested with sand paper and a new finish will entwine the two of you a bit more. Not all NEED it but still a thought.

Like building arrows, a bit of yourself invested adds to the entire experience. Add to that fact that the bow chosen may have been “state of the art” in it’s time and “still works” like it always did.

What it was capable of then, and worked, is fully available to those willing to give them a go.

Switching from compound to trad, I will offer this advice. Please take it as intended, as helpful, yet only MY opinion.

FORGET SPEED and all the calculations involved. Pick the arrow spine that flys well at your draw and stick with what trad bows were made for.

Simplistic shooting……….and FUN! Cluttering this pure form of archery with all the statistics and calculations CAN (but dont always) conflict with what they can really offer.

Pick a sound bow of manufacturer well known at a fair price and match some arrows to it.

GOOD TO GO!

God Bless
Steve Sr.

It all boils down to what you plan to do with it,the draw weight if your shootin 60# compound,would prob be in the area of 45-50 # on your recurves,but if you have doubts,go 5# lighter than u think you should have.You can buy quality take downs today,and once you get used to your draw weight,and want to go heavier,you can pick up a heavier set of limbs for a little of nothing.Just something to think about.Don’t over do it,think form,consistancy,and enjoyment.Have fun,good luck.

Michael — welcome to tradbow.com! dave p

thanks dave

Hi Nemoshooter, and welcome to the site! I’m sure someone more knowledgable than I will chime in, but they also need your draw length to estimate arrow spine. We did an excerpt from T.J.’s book, The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook, about Wood Arrow Spine if that helps at all. You might also search the older forum posts. This has been discussed in the past. If you need any help, just send me an email or PM.

nemoshooter wrote: [quote=TBMADMIN]Hi Nemoshooter, and welcome to the site! I’m sure someone more knowledgable than I will chime in, but they also need your draw length to estimate arrow spine. We did an excerpt from T.J.’s book, The Traditional Bowhunter’s Handbook, about Wood Arrow Spine if that helps at all. You might also search the older forum posts. This has been discussed in the past. If you need any help, just send me an email or PM.[/quote

going by the general rule of thumb, if my draw length is 29 plus a loop with a compound, then i figure that my dl with a recurve would right at 28

I am shooting a 50# recurve with a 27″ draw,and have been using the Easton Epic ST in a 600 shaft.It seems to be flyin really well. I am looking at getting Goldtip 35/55 expedition hunter for hunting next fall for a heavier shaft. I think the 340 shaft will be to heavy spined for a 50# recurve. You would likely do better with a 500 shaft.

I have owned four Samick bows to date and all were great shooters, and I would highly recommend Samick for a fellers first tradbow. The Red Stag model in particular.

I switched from compound to recurve last year and I went with a Martin/Howatt x-200.This has been an EXCELLENT bow and very reasonable cost. I think the dozen carbon shafts I bought for it actually cost more than the bow did. My compound weight was 60# and my recurve is 40#@ 28″ however….being 6’4 I have a long draw length. I maxed my compound out to 31″ and I actually draw the recurve to 31.5. I figure this puts my 40# bow to more like 46 or 47#. This has been very comfortable to draw and with a properly tuned heavy FOC arrow, plenty enough lethal. I wouldn’t go taking a 40 or 50 yard shot like I can with the compound but inside 25 yards, there isn’t an animal in my neck of the woods that I wouldn’t hunt with it.

Bottom line, try a few bows and see what feels “right” for you.If you have friends with trad bows, test shoot them and see what you like or don’t. Don’t get hung up on draw weight and arrow speed. As long as your arrows are tuned well and you keep the front heavy, they’ll penetrate very well. Even from a lighter bow.Like I said, my 47# recurve will double lung a deer or bear just as well as my compound does inside 25 yds.

Hope you find the bow that suits you and happy hunting !!

Not an expert by any means, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn… 😆

I still have my compund, but since I went trad, I haven’t even taken out to the range. The advice here is great. What helped me out the most is talking to people. If you know anyone with a recurve, see if they can join you at the range and let you try theirs out. I bought a recurve online for $150 and was lucky that it was in good shape. Even though it may seem like a bit, you simply can’t beat a custom bow, but don’t jump in too fast. I went from a 63# compount to a 45# recurve to a 50# hybrid. The let-off on the compound is a definite benefit, but getting out and practicing is what does it. I am still deadly at any distance that I can poke the target without shooting. Beyond that, not so much. But I am having a great time learning. One great feeling is shooting a few arrows, having them hit [near] where I was aiming, and realizing I wasn’t really “aiming” so much as I was picking a spot. I am sure I was aiming, but it felt more like I was just telling the arrow where to go. Again, this is not any great distance, but when you actually feel the improvement, it’s a great felling. Hang in there, ask questions and stick with it. People here are always willing to help. They may not always agree, but they will never steer you wrong. Have fun and be well.

Alex

😀

Well said Alex 8)

I bought an excellent Bear Kodiak on the “auction” website. It’s 55# @28″, in almost perfect condition. Price including shipping was slightly over $200. I also have a 45# Ben Pearson, also from the auction site. It’s fiberglass and I love practicing with it.

I know there are some horror stories out there, but I have had great luck in buying and selling……. my 65# monster Bear Hunter Take-Down bow.