Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Installing Inserts in Carbon Arrows so they Can Be Removed for Tuning?
-
AuthorPosts
-
-
I just got a test kit (different spines) of carbon arrows. The shafts are full length so I can tune them to my bow. My question is, how do I mount the inserts so that I can remove them and take length off of the arrow?
I was thinking hot mount glue, but I am not sure if the carbon can handle the heat it will take to remove the insert. Any help would be appreciated.
-
cfiles — great, and tough, question. When I first started experimenting with carbons I tried hot-melt and even though I used care not to overheat the shaft, I ruined a couple before going to 2-tube epoxy, which of course is mega-permanent. This is a new one on me. What about the rest of you guys looking in on this? For starters I’d contact the supplier, which I’m guessing is ABS, and put the question to them. I hope to learn something here. Thanks for asking. 🙄
-
Use Ferr-L-Tite. Heat the glue to the insert to put them in. To remove the inserts, screw in a field point and apply gentle heat to the tip of the point. No problem; no worries.
-
ABS does have a video about this very thing.
-
I always use hot melt with no worries…YET. What I like to do is use aluminum external footings. That allows me to heat the footing which is over the insert then pull out. If no footing then just put in a field point, heat, then pull out.
When I begin getting the front of the arrow loaded the way I like it and it bareshafts slightly weak I then fletch the arrow. I put the feathers on about 1/4 to 3/8″ further from the nock than normal. If I happen to need to cut the shaft 1/16″ of inch or so then I will not need to unload the front to cut.
Richie
-
I’ve used small squares of plastic from
grocery bags. Works fairly well, one needs to
experiment with different bags because their thicknesses
vary. Just fold the plastic square over the insert and
stuff it in with a gentle twisting motion. -
David Petersen wrote: For starters I’d contact the supplier, which I’m guessing is ABS, and put the question to them.
Who is ABS? (Alaska Bowhunting Supply?) All of the stuff I got came from 3 Rivers.
J.Wesbrock wrote: Use Ferr-L-Tite. Heat the glue to the insert to put them in. To remove the inserts, screw in a field point and apply gentle heat to the tip of the point. No problem; no worries.
That looks like the same stuff I have. I have an old shaft laying around, I may try this process and see what happens.
dabersold wrote: I may be way off base here, but if the arrows are straight walled and not some of the newer type that is heavier towards the front, you could just remove the nock and cut from that end. Most carbons have pull out nocks.
I thought about that and I am going to check it out this afternoon. I think they may be glued in though.
Ed Zachary wrote: I’ve used small squares of plastic from
grocery bags. Works fairly well, one needs to
experiment with different bags because their thicknesses
vary. Just fold the plastic square over the insert and
stuff it in with a gentle twisting motion.No glue! That is what I was hoping to do. Does the extra weight of the material cause any issues?
-
Which test kit did you get? I mean what kind of arrows?
-
“No glue! That is what I was hoping to do.
Does the extra weight of the material cause any issues?”
NO….unless you leave the whole bag attached 😆
(Stuff the insert into shaft, then trim off excess with razor blade) -
Tom-Wisconsin wrote: Which test kit did you get? I mean what kind of arrows?
I got this kit.
I started a thread in the Ashby forum about building EFOC arrows (from a newbie standpoint). There is more information/specifics in the thread.
-
Ed Zachary wrote: NO….unless you leave the whole bag attached 😆
(Stuff the insert into shaft, then trim off excess with razor blade)I will give that a go and see what happens. Hopefully I will not be fishing a field point out of my target bag 🙂
-
I use pre fletched Carbon Express 250 with 100gr brass inserts. They fit so tight that I dont use glue until after the tuning is done then I insert a welding rod from nock end and tap out the insert. This also works 99% of the time if the insert was installed with hot melt.
-
Cfiles
I did read your other thread. Thanks for reminding me as I am interested in what you find. Sinced you ordered the test kit with 300,340 and 400 I would try the 400 spine first. I bet it will be stiff spine and you will have to put max wt on front end to weaken it. Please let us know what happens.Thanks for letting us follow your research
Tom
-
Just for grins I glued (hot melt) an insert into the 300 shaft. It is super stiff and I do not think I will use it. After it set, I screwed in an old field point and heated it. To my astonishment the insert pulled out cleanly without any issue. The tip of the shaft was cool as well. Thumbs up to that method.
I also gave the grocery bag method a test…it worked well too. The insert did try to pull out on me after a few shots. Most of that was because there is a lip on the field tip (the tip is glued to a broadhead adapter) that kept catching on my target bag when I removed the arrow.
The nock on the end of the shaft can be removed with pliers. There is no taper on them, so I can also cut them from that end.
Tomorrow I get to actually cut the shafts. I flung a dozen or so shots at the bag today and the 400 shaft is just a little weak and needs a trim. The 315 grain head with a 100 grain insert makes a nice thud when it hits the bag. I cannot imagine the kind of damage these things will do with a sharp broadhead.
-
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.