Home › Forums › Bows and Equipment › Resealing shafts?
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Hey guys,
I just made up my first batch of wooden shafts recently and I’ve had some the lacquer worn off down near the tip, where it’s getting roughed up by the target I guess. Is it ok to ‘paint’ lacquer on in small quantities like that or should I remove the points and re-dip the ends?
I’m so profoundly lazy my first instinct was to pretend I didn’t see it and keep shooting, alas someone, somewhere along the line has passed on some kind of work/maintenance ethic through my almost impenetrable wall of sloth 😉
Any thoughts on how I should proceed?
Jim
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You can aways touch up the missing finish as-is. There’s no need to remove the tips unless you feel so inclined.
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Cheers mate, I love it when I’m told what I want to hear 😀
Jim
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The beauty of spray poly. If it is poly you use as I do. A bit of work with really fine sandpaper or some steel wool, spray and let dry.
Just think, if sloths were predators they’d be undetectable until the pounce :D. Might be a thought to another thread on here.
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R2 wrote: Just think, if sloths were predators they’d be undetectable until the pounce :D. Might be a thought to another thread on here.
There’s an example to follow, but I doubt many of us are capable of catching a deer or elk asleep in its bed:
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Ralph, spray poly sounds like the ultimate lazy man’s solution. I’ll be getting some 😉
Haha, I like that the shark isn’t even a ‘lazy’ ambush predator like a viper or a croc, its just plodding along looking for someone asleep to bite. What a jerk 😀
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There are gecko’s in my garage that change shade to suit their background. My garage is where I repair my arrows. It’s all connected 😉
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Ralph, you’re getting silly … what sort of pain drugs they have you on? :P:lol: Are you from CO or WA?
Seriously, if you have a dip tube it takes all of 2-3 seconds to refinish an arrow as far up the shaft as needed. Don’t even take the point off (unless it’s a big blunt or broadhead). And the finishes you use with a dip tube in generally last many many times longer than spray poly. I know, having built dozens of dozens arrows finished with spray, brush-on and wipe-on. Then I parted with $8 or whatever the dip tube cost, and never looked back. Dipping is the pro way to go, though I must admit that too many coats of some finishes, specifically gasket lacquer, can lead to circular cracking after a lot of shots.
Ah, but in writing all those words above I am ignoring Occam’s razor. Maybe better to just spray and go. If you don’t “build” your own arrows from raw shafts it’s hard to justify buying a dip tube. But then, if you’re not building your own arrows you’re missing one of the great little joys of off-season archery and bowhunting … you don’t see many super-serious fly fishers who don’t at some point start tying their own flies. The savings are significant, but it’s mostly just fun.
Damn but I’m getting to be a windy old fart. But since Steve Sr. has disappeared (already!) again, someone needs to fill in I guess. 😆
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I have a dip tube sitting in my garage Dave 🙂 Being the dope I am it never even occurred to me that I could just dip it with the field point on!
Ralph, I don’t have plans for a coat of many colours, but inspired by a recent article I read of Doc Ashby’s I’m in the middle of building a head and shoulders gillie suit. I’ll post some pics and a build along if it’s any good when I’m done 🙂
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Wish that spray poly would work on me right now. Ouch!
Hey David, you’d think they’d slip some funny weed in the concoction when they cut your groin open.
I’ve been using brush on poly for years and it works for me.
It’s worth the little bit extra too guys when ordering shafts to get them spined and weighed. I received a dz. a while back, spined to a T but with an 80 gr. difference in weight. 12 arrows with weights scattered all over the scale. Those are the kind of arrows you use for the ^&#* shots.
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I like using teak oil. It is designed to soak into the grain then can be handled after rubbing with a rag. After 72 hours a urithane can be applied if you want.
Kevin
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