I use them and they are great. Heavy, durable and affordable.

DK

I use them also and they are very durable. Plus they look good to. Unless you know for sure what spine you’ll need I recommend getting the test kit first. With the test kit you will have some of each spine for when/if you get a new bow at a different weight later on.

Good luck

Troy

How do you fellas combat the issue of the nocks flying out when you hit a stump? Pop has those arrows and the little nocks kept popping out when he stump shot. Pain in the rear…

T I thought I read here but can’t remember, any way I shoot Gold Tip with tubes in them and the nocks would come out. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and every couple inches pinched them and then I use gorilla tape and wrap the base of my nocks to the shaft – seems to work

T Downing wrote: How do you fellas combat the issue of the nocks flying out when you hit a stump? Pop has those arrows and the little nocks kept popping out when he stump shot. Pain in the rear…

I haven’t had a lot of trouble but I have had some, so… once I have the arrows tuned, the ones I will use for stumpin/small game I put a small dot of glue to the junction on the out side, that way if I need to change them out I can use my pocket knife and pop the seal. I have seen some folks that will heat up hot melt and put a dab on the inside of the nock then insert it in the best tuned position, if they need to change the nock due to damage they can heat the the nock lightly and twist it out with pliers.

There maybe more ideas from some more experienced people here.

Good luck

Troy

brennanherr wrote: Troy,

Thanks for the info…the new bow has been ordered since May and it is to be built in March…can hardly wait! I use CX 250 with 370 out front and my kodiak is at 46 #….the 300 TO arrows should work well with a little heavier bow (around 50 or so at 28 Inch). But time will tell. Thanks again.

Brennan,

I think that 300 will be a bit stiff for 50 or so @28. I am shooting a bow that is 51.5@26 (my draw length) using 400’s cut to 30&3/8 with a total of 400 up front, with a total arrow weight of 731 (my elk arrows), albeit they are real easy to watch to the target(slow), they fly very well and penetration is great.

With the Trad Only the lower spine numbers 300 are stiffer spined than the higher numbers 600. I would recommend that you see if you can get a test kit with the spines 300, 340, 400, and 500 in it. I am thinking that you will end up using the 400’s for 50-54@28 and maybe the 340’s if you have 50-54@28 but have an actual draw length of 29-30.

I wouldn’t want you to expended the funds for a dozen or even half dozen shafts and have the tuning process go completely awry.

Good luck and let me know how it go’s for you

Troy

Troy is correct; 300s will be far too stiff for 50# @ 28”. The Traditional Only shafts are the old Beman ICS Classics with a different label. I’ve been shooting Beman ICSs for over a decade and like them a lot. They’re extremely durable, consistent, and the price is good. I shoot a high performance recurve pulling 56# @ 32” with full length 340s and standard weight inserts with 125-grain heads. In order to get 300s tuned correctly with the same bow I need to put about 275 grains up front (did it once to test a few things).

Unlike some other manufacturers, Beman/Easton uses the actual spine deflection for their carbon shafts (Easton aluminum/carbon shafts notwithstanding). So a 300 will have a spine deflection of .300 measured at 28” centers with a 1.94# weight (which is different than the 26” centers and 2# weight method used for wood shafts). For your setup, I would suggest 400s if you want to play with extremely heavy heads, or 500s for tips in a normal weight range.