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Guess you can say I’m a bow junkie…
For years I wanted a Rocky Mtn Recurve. Since I build all my bow I could never see paying someone else to build one for me.
Now that RMR as gone out of business I figured my chances of owning one was long gone. Finding a used one is almost like trying to find hens teeth. I’ve looked all over the country trying to find one to use as a pattern. No such luck.
A few months ago I found out that a fellow in NM (Jess Stuart of Sierra Blanca Bows) was building reproductions of the RMR. After talking to him he gladly gave me all the help I needed to build my own.
The riser is Che Chen and Bubinga with Maple accent stripes. The limbs are lamboo inside black glass. I also stippled the grip.
Final states are 62″ AMO 60#@28″. At my 29″ draw I’ll be pulling 63#. The few test shots I took before putting on the finish show it going to be a good shooting bow.
Once I steelwool with 0000 steelwood the high gloss will be history. After that it’s back to shooting and tuning. I have plans to use an 800gr arrow. Should have plenty of thump for anything I want to hunt.
Troy
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Great job Troy! How do you stipple a grip?
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wildschwein wrote: Great job Troy! How do you stipple a grip?
I use a dremel tool with a ball tipped bit. You just make a dimple then another, then another until you have the area you want covered.
Troy
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skifrk wrote: Beautiful bow there Troy. What about the RMR drew you to it to create one of your own?
Wanted one for years. Guess it has to do with the slimmer riser. If you notice the riser is not a wide as the limbs. May not be a fast as other bows, but they are supposed to be as smooth as any.
Troy
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The gloss finish is history. Here it is stung and ready for the strike plate, shelf pad, and most likely string silencers.
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Man oh man that is one sweet looking bow. You do very good work Troy.
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When your not rich you have to learn to do things yourself.:D
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Yes it does reduce the overall weight of the bow. To me it makes the riser sleek and refined.
The stippled grip helps prevent the bow from slipping around in your hand when your hands are sweaty or your wearing cotton gloves.
Troy
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ozzyshane wrote: Troy what did you do with the centre shot to make it better for the FOC arrows Thanks Shane
Shane,
I only cut the sight window to center. Most folks cut their windows atleast 1/8″ past center.
The only reason I cut the window this far is I may one day decide to sell this bow and most would not like anything less than center cut.
I’ll build out the sight window for sure. After steelwooling the gloss finish to flat I tried the same arrows I’ve been using in my last bow. Yea, this bow is several pounds heavier and even in the strong cross wind it was easy to see that the arrows were way underspined. They would leave the bow heavy tail left. As the left to right wind would catch them they would swing heavy tail right. It almost looked like the tail of a dog wagging.
Hopefully today the wind will not be as bad and I will be able to work up the right shaft for the bow.
I can say I’m totally happy with the speed of this bow. The arrows I was trying tipped the scale at 800grs. and I could see quite a bit faster flight.
Troy
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That’s a real beauty. I might not ever build a bow, but the thought that goes into it is really interesting. I appreciate the post. best, dwc
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Beautiful bow Troy. I admire you talent.
Duncan
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Shane,
Started shooting yesterday after building out the shelf. I made it 1/4″ before center and I’m finding I will have to use internal footings. I’m shooting 300 Beman Bowhunter shafts. I tried shooting lighter points to see where my starting point was, but the shafts were too light in weight and that made the bow noisey as heck. I even took one shaft down to 1/4″ longer than my draw and they are still too weak. I’m testing with a 300gr Tuffhead point on a 125gr steel adpt. For now I’m double footing the point end of the shaft to make it the same diameter as the brass point and using the standard aluminium insert.
I’m really suprised at how hard this bow is casting the shafts.
So last night I made up a shaft with a 4″ IF and will give it a try as soon as the wind decides to back off a little. Hard to test shoot when the breeze is in the 25 to 30 MPH range.
Troy
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Wahoo,
Dream on….:D:D
Troy
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Hiram,
This was the first bow I’ve tried this design on. I’ve compared limb designs form several different bows and foundthat the ones with the deeper hook design seem to have better cast. So I decided to give it a try.
So far I’m happy with everything. Hopefully today will be one of those days I can find out exactly what shaft setup shoots best.
Troy
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so whats the verdict troy? So how about I swing by the house and you show me how to build a 3pc bow.
lol Really want to learn.
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Anytime Matt…
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Troy Breeding wrote: Hiram,
This was the first bow I’ve tried this design on. I’ve compared limb designs form several different bows and foundthat the ones with the deeper hook design seem to have better cast. So I decided to give it a try.
So far I’m happy with everything. Hopefully today will be one of those days I can find out exactly what shaft setup shoots best.
Troy
Yessir! Less stack and more torsional stability,,especially if they do not unfold a lot at FD. Look at some of Borders deep hook limbs at FD,, you will see that they a re little static which contributes to less stack and more torsional stability.:)
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Thanks for the kind words Bill. As with any first time design there are afew small cosmetic booboo’s in it, but they have no effect on how it shoots.
Troy
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Troy is in the process of building a Rocky Mountain Recurve copy for me. Below are some pics of the riser he emailed to me. The riser has had one coat of epoxy sealer applied to it.
It’s going to be a gorgeous bow. It’ll be 62″ and around 50#@28″.
Bill
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The more I look at this bow, the more I’m finding it hard to let it go.:D:D:D
May have to keep it and make another one out of something rather plan to be able to send it out.
If I remember right I think I have a block of hickory stashed back. That shoud be plain enough.:D:D:D
Bill, you ain’t seen nothing yet.
I have three coats of epoxy sealant/grain filler on it now and it starting to smooth out nicely. I had hoped to have all the pores filled with three coats, but I’m not happy with the results at this point in time. May have to add afew more coats to get it like I want.
Troy
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Troy,
I suspect the Bubinga is the wood you’re having difficulty filling. I had a recurve built out of Bubinga and Shedua with Maple, Bloodwood and Purpleheart accents. It was a gorgeous bow, but, it had lots of pores that weren’t sealed in both the Bubinga and the Shedua.
Don’t ship the bow until you’re happy with it. If you’re happy with it, I know I will be. I still have a couple dozen arrows that you built for me way back when you was building wood arrows. They still show the quality craftsmanship you put into your work to this day! :):):)
Bill
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You pegged it, the bubinga is really porus. I’ve had bubinga in the past that wasn’t as bad, but didn’t have the look this piece does.
No matter how long it takes I want it right when it leaves here.
Troy
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