Quick word of advise, do your bareshaft testing with fieldpoints. From what I’ve tested you will need to be in the range of 45%FOC to bareshaft with a broardhead and be able to get clean flight.

Troy

Troy,

I think you misunderstood. I think the test point he is talking about is a field point. I believe he was asking if it is ok to make the point 325 grains by adding 10 grains of brass washers. I could be wrong?

Tune them out with you (test points), once you have great consistant flight…….your BH’s should fly just as clean. Im in the same boat. I havent purchased my Bh’s either but i am tuning some woodies with Field points from TH until im ready to buy my Bh’S.

goodluck tuning

leo c:D

Yep, did missread that part.

Like South Texas said, start tuning now. Then when the broadheads get here, if you have the tuning done the broadheads should fly the same.

Troy

Biscuit — I love your Dad’s quote! That’s what the “trad life” celebrates.

I use the clamp that came as part of my el cheapo Bohning fletching jig, so don’t fully understand your question. Clean parts with acetone or rubbing alcohol before gluing, including heat gluing. Thanks for keeping our suppliers precisely honest!

Dave, when I bought mine I had to choose either straight or helical as the clamp that comes with the jig is one or the other.

Biscuit, I bought the straight one, which you can fix at an off-set, so the feather sits diagonally across the shaft. It doesn’t look as nice as helical but it stops the arrows from planing.

Perhaps more knowledgeable folks can tell you more about the pros/cons of either set up.

skinner biscuit wrote:

What do you clean the inside of the shafts with before gluing the inserts?

I like to take a .22 cal wire bore brush and use it to ‘rough up’ the inside of the shaft. Then dip a q-tip in alcohol and wipe out any grit before gluing my inserts. I find I get noticeably better adhesion over time when I do that.

Out of curiosity – what spine rating of shafts are you using? Cut to what length?

skinner biscuit wrote: …Plan to go with 225gr broadhead , 100 gr. brass insert and 100gr.steel screw in adapters. I have a 315gr. grizzly stick test point and by adding two 5 gr.brass washers can duplicate weight.

I’m a little confused – wouldn’t the point weight you plan to go with add up to 425gr, as described above?

But it sounds like the test point you have and two washers adds up to 325.

Just curious.

I use the exact method of brushing and swabbing the inside of the carbon shaft as Smithy. I also started using a hot glue that I got from braveheart archery. It’s a little different than regular hot glue sticks and it really holds well and is easy to reverse as needed. dwc

Go to the Tuffhead website & read Troy’s article on tuning. You will learn a lot there & see the small, straight A & A style fletch he uses. Also go to the FOC forum & search thru the great wealth of information under, [Sticky] FOC, Tieing the threads together. I am working on building a foc arrow with G/T 5575 trad & 225 Tuffheads with 100 gr. threaded inserts. 🙂

drycreekarchery wrote: I am working on building a foc arrow with G/T 5575 trad & 225 Tuffheads with 100 gr. threaded inserts. 🙂

Can you tell me what length your shafts are cut to, and what your shelf cut is?

Only asking because I’m shooting 5575’s with a 250gr. head and 100gr. inserts cut to 28.5″ and getting consistent nock left when I bareshaft them, but I’m having a hard time believing that my spine is too weak, which is making me wonder if something else is going on.

Smithhammer, I have bilateral labrum shoulder tears, so I have not got into cutting & tuning yet. Shooting is painful & surgery is the only option(which I’m holding out till i can’t take it anymore). Not getting to shoot much is also painful. So, it’s too early to give you an answer. When I finally get there, I’ll pm you with some stats.

Smithhammer wrote: [quote=drycreekarchery]I am working on building a foc arrow with G/T 5575 trad & 225 Tuffheads with 100 gr. threaded inserts. 🙂

Can you tell me what length your shafts are cut to, and what your shelf cut is?

Only asking because I’m shooting 5575’s with a 250gr. head and 100gr. inserts cut to 28.5″ and getting consistent nock left when I bareshaft them, but I’m having a hard time believing that my spine is too weak, which is making me wonder if something else is going on.

I’m in the same boat. Shooting .325 spined carbons off a 50 lb recurve with over 400 gr. total front end weight. Built my side plate out to 3/16 before center to get them to fly right but like Smithammer said something else has to be going on because now, my far weaker spined .530 CEs are hitting way left… which makes no sense at all? (the CE .530s with 25% FOC shot perfect before building out the side plate BTW).

Ron

Over the last couple of years i’ve picked up quite a few bows in my quest to find the one. During the tuning process with all these bows, all around 53@28, each bow seemed to like a certain spine. Scanning my sometimes poor memory, I had a take down longbow like 500 spines, a couple other bows like 400’s, and the only one I have left now likes 340’s. All these bows were set up to shoot 250 to 350 grs up front. Granted shelf cut varies on a lot of them but running them through something like stu’s calculator and coming out with different set ups that all should work, same stiffness according to the calculator, did not yield the same result. If a bow liked 340, for the life of me I couldn’t get a 400 spined arrow to shoot well without going down to 125 or 100 gr heads, when in theory, according to the calculator, it should have worked with 150’s or 175’s.

My present bow that likes those 340’s will shoot a 100gr variance in tip weight, which is kind a cool really. Screw on a 200 head and go hunt deer with a 550gr arrow then screw on a 300 gr head and go hunt elk. 😀