When Bill bought out Grizzly, and retooled, KME set up all their bevel grinding equipment, did the grinding for a period of time, then sold all the equipment and did the training so that Bill and team could do the grinding on site.

Now and again, a bevel comes out less than 25*– As with any production issue. I use KME broad head sharpener which is set to 25* (depending on width of head) and I have a couple that needed a coarser diamond grit to refine the bevel.

Some use a file. There is no way in blue hell I could ever get a consistent angle using a file. Just me! Farrier’s rasps have been mentioned a lot if you have that level of consistency in forward motion using hand tools!

I’m sure others will show up here w/ good suggestions!

I successfully used body shop wet-dry sandpaper on glass to do a few using the BH Sharpener.

Don’t give up. Call Ron at KME if you’re interested.

You can’t beat the KME knife sharpener system for putting a razor edge on the Grizzly. Get one, and if you still have difficulty just call Ron and he will spend whatever time necessary to walk you through the process, until you CAN get that true razor-edge finish. Just the sharpening ‘know-how’ education Ron will give you is worth the cost of the KME Sharpener.

Ed

There ya go! Do what the Doctor tells you! 🙂

Seriously, the only thing that throws some a slider is that Griz and Tuskers are very hard steel. If the edge is 30* like the old Griz, or some other configuration due to mfg hiccup, you’ll play hell taking off enough metal with standard stones to re-bevel the errant edge!

None the less, follow the doctor’s orders. Give Ron a call. Tell him what problem ya got, ask for advice and what equip you need to tune you up and Ron will have you singing praises. He’s constantly improving product and materials, so TALK to him and get the MRI (most recent info)

I was the founder and charter president of Can’t Sharpen Chit Int’l, and he got me to the point ON THE PHONE where I just need a moment refresher each year to “git er done”. I now have a “cheat sheet” in my kit!

In the early years, IMHO, the steels that came with KME sharpeners weren’t sufficiently aggressive. Ron is now offering his own line of stones and steels and the coarse are far more aggressive and can eat steel of the hardest heads. Before I got a new set of the improved steels, I broke off a mill cut file to the proper length to use in the stone holder, and that worked fine. The real problem when you have heads with uneven bevels that have to be worked aggressively to true-up, is that you lose a lot of head weight real fast and come out with weights all over the place. So I say that the best starting point for really sharp heads at the right angle and consistent weight is to ask around and find when brands are closest to the mark out of the package. By the way, for single-bevels it’s the KME knife sharpener you want, not the broadheads sharpener, again IMHO.

David,

I concur that the stones and diamond units that came with the knife sharpener were insufficient to cut hard head steel and reshape the bevel. My point above. The new line of stones and diamond tools are not yet being advertised on the site, I believe. I’ve read about them though.

On a more personal note, I’m not sure why you say the knife over the BH sharpener, but I’m sure you have your reasons?! Some folk find the knife easier on BH’s, for sure. I do not.

I have both and prefer the BH sharpener for it’s quick touch up on broad heads once the correct angle is achieved. And yes, I, too, use only single bevel.

KME ground Tuskers are available (another hard, fine head) and the new Grizzly are still quite hard and have a fine bevel.

Both knife and broad head sharpeners work very well. I believe there have even been improvements on the knife sharpener jaw/head assembly in recent months?

Thankfully, we don’t all like the same things or I’d never be able to afford anything! 😯

Doc — Yep! 😀

[quote=Doc Nock]David,

“On a more personal note, I’m not sure why you say the knife over the BH sharpener, but I’m sure you have your reasons?! Some folk find the knife easier on BH’s, for sure. I do not.

I have both and prefer the BH sharpener for it’s quick touch up on broad heads once the correct angle is achieved. And yes, I, too, use only single bevel.”

So Doc, and whoever else….You use the KME broadhead sharpener on single bevel heads? I have been under the impression that you needed the knife sharpening system to sharpen these. I just switched to the Tuffhead and that would be great to be able to sharpen with the broadhead sharpener since I have that and not the knife system. So how well does it do on them?

Yessir, use the BH sharpener on my single bevel.

Ron outlined this for me so often, I typed it up and printed it and put in my kit.

* using coarsest stone, bevel down, run unit back and forth letting the stone do the work. Check for burr along the entire non-beveled edge… use slight pressure where not a burr till burr forms the entire length.

* Flip blade. Gently run back and forth till “burr” is removed from the non-bevel side,

* Flip again. Now use forward ONLY strokes

* Do 10-15 (or so) till slight burr again on non-bevel side

I keep timing out and the list function didn’t seem to work.

* OK… so you’re doing 10-15 strokes (forward) on the bevel, then flip, do same on other side.

* Flip. Do fewer strokes on bevel side.

* Flip. Do same # o n non bevel side.

* Down to ONE forward stroke EACH side—repeat 10 times.

* Wipe off oil on blade and roller.

* Take a piece of regular corrugated cardboard and drag the blade backwards over the ridges on the cardboard.

* Repeat this 10 times, flip, do 10, flip, do 5, flip, do 5 then do one each side and flip over each time for 10 reps.

YEs, there is a tiny bit of shine on the non-bevel side. Only enough to remove the burr!

NOTE: This isn’t in excruciating detail cause I keep timing out typing…if confused, Call Ron! 🙂

I forwarded a link so perhaps he’ll come on and edit or update any errors or gaps in my outline!

I’ve seen clips where Ron has not only shaved hair, but filleted one of his arm hairs! That’s pretty sharp!

Great! Really appreciate the information Doc…..

You replied a bit quick since I am breaking this up to not time out:

Really quite simple (or I couldn’t do it), and it’s ALL in the BURR.

If you quit on the coarse stone before you raise a burr the entire opposing side, you’ll never GET IT SHARP!

Once that burr is raised on the non-bevel side, then removed, there is a light burr on the bevel side…forward only on the coarse stone, lightly, then flip and do the other side, flip, less strokes (forward only) flip and keep going and when done…that sucker will shave hair just on the coarse stone...

As you reduce # of strokes, flip and repeat on the other side, it is better and better…then move to a less aggressive stone and it will start polishing the edge and removing rough marks…

Sharpen with the coarse stone, then move to the finer grits to polish the edge…when you strop it, on cardboard vs. leather, it will scare you silly!

I use a grinding wheel. If you have one (or get one at lowes, they are cheap these days) the following kit will let you sharpen a broadhead in a couple minutes:

http://www.abowyer.com/razor_sharp_edge_making_system.html

I use the same system Steve uses. With a little bit of practice the razor sharp system is the best I have found. The only problem is that you MUST be able to keep a consistent angle on the bevel. Practice with some old broadheads until you get confident. The last step in achieving a super sharp edge is using a leather strop I purchased from Joe at Tuffhead. I got my razor sharp system from Grizzly Woodworking Supply and I paid about 30$.

Here’s a short vid if you want to sharpen by hand. http://youtu.be/5umxVy7uhLM