Home › Forums › Friends of FOC › shafts: tapered vs. parallel
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Still researching the next wood arrows that I plan to build and looking into FOC increases and a relatively heavy arrow (around 700 gr., 200 gr. Grizzly). A 10″ tapered shaft will yield an increase in FOC as more weight is toward the front of the shaft, correct? If I am looking at tapered vs. parallel shafts, my thinking is that tapering will effect the initial spine of the shafts, correct? If so, what is typically seen, I am looking at 80-85 gr shafts which should put me in the right dynamic spine for my bow, do I expect when ordering shafts that 85 spine shafts will turn into 80 or lower, or am I missing it that ordering tapered shafts in 80 spine will provide me with 80 spine shafts. Possibly a dumb question but if I don’t ask, how am I to learn. (Please provide a bit of slack if the answer to the above question is obvious to some, may not be obvious to me without some knowledgeable back-up)
And to those of you who have shot both Par. and Tap. shafts, do you have a preference and, if so, why?
Thanks.
TomBow
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Increasing FOC is a matter of adding weight up front and removing it from the back, so you are looking in the right directions. Tapering is a good start. How much weight and spine is lost depends on the length of taper, spine and weight. A 10 inch taper on a 500 gr 80 lb shaft will lose about 2-3 lb spine and 15 gr weight. I taper all my shafts and spine them after tapering. If you buy your shafts already tapered, ask if they are spined after tapering.
As you might guess, I like tapered shafts. They just shoot better for me. It’s all theory, but along with moving the CG forward, I feel it helps the arrow flex more evenly and recover from paradox quicker, kinda like it “tillers” the arrow.
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Fletcher pegged it just about right on how much spine and weight reduction you get when using a 10″ taper.
Thats why I only used a 9″ taper when I was in the arrow and shaft business. On average the spine loss was approx 1# and weight averaged from 5 to 10grs.
Wether you use 9″ or 10″ is up to you. Either will make for a better flying arrow.
Troy
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Thanks for taking the time to reply. Again, I am early into the research and testing phase of wood arrows but am very happy with my first set of woods. I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a set of High FOC woods. Just a little more research and decision making on my part is left. I have been using Stu’s calculator like a madman, tweaking spines and weight information to try and find the right combination that will yield what I am looking for.
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Seeing that the nock taper is supposed to be cut BEFORE tapering, down to say, 5/16″ from a 11/64 shaft, would you use a 5/16 nock or 11/64?
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Tombow wrote: Seems to me you’d use 5/16 as that would be the diameter of the nock end of the arrow.
But my tapering tool, would not allow the 5/16″ taper tool to fit over an 11/32″ shaft, at least I don’t think so.
If you used the 11/32 tool, would the 5/16 nock fit when the shaft is tapered?
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handirifle wrote: [quote=Tombow]Seems to me you’d use 5/16 as that would be the diameter of the nock end of the arrow.
But my tapering tool, would not allow the 5/16″ taper tool to fit over an 11/32″ shaft, at least I don’t think so.
If you used the 11/32 tool, would the 5/16 nock fit when the shaft is tapered?
Yes. The end of the shaft is tapered to a 5/16 dia at the nock taper.
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OK thanks
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