I think we touched on this in a different subject, I always used a dremel tool with there little cut off blade, but that always made a crooked free hand cut. Then another fellow on this site, suggested(sorry cant remember who) that you just make a jig using some 2 by 4’s and clamp down the dremel tool and then you get a strait cut every time. I think that is a awesome idea, especially because the dremel is useful for pretty much anything so if you dont have one and you get one it can be used from cutting arrows to gunsmithing to just regular woodwork. I know a guy that carved a entire pine wood derby car using nothing but a dremel tool. It looked good to? As far as glue, I would say that you cant go wrong with a two part epoxy I have A&E I believe and it is great, yellow tube from 3rivers. Althought a ton of people use the hot melt stuff, never cared for it myself!? And I think that is all you would need, unless you wanted to crest them or something?

My uncle and I have had good luck with the 5-minute epoxy (2-part stuff), for gluing our inserts in our arrows. Fletch-tite for the feathers, of course. My uncle bought an arrow cut-off saw, so we use that, or I go down to the bow shop and have them cut my arrows…doesn’t cost anything. Nocks, I think my uncle usually uses Fletch-tite there, too. I had the bow shop put some inserts in for me this year, and they use hot melt, and I had an insert pop part way out after I hit a rock with that arrow. However, the insert won’t go in or out any farther than where it is now, so I don’t know what to do about that. I suppose just shoot it till the arrow breaks, then get another one.

Michael.

he is right, my buddy even has done it with a lighter, but that took a while, lol. Just make sure that you are heating up the feild point, not the spot where the insert is, expecially with aluminum, it will melt the aluminum first, carbon will burn and weaken, but not if you heat up the feild point. O and you dont want it red hot, just warm so you can man handle the insert and push it back in.

As for using the hot melt because of its un-doability, other glues will do the same, with the exception of the 2 part that montana is talking about if it is the one I am thinking of(little white tubes) and the 2 part that comes with axis arrows. The 2 part I use (AAE) can be softened with heat!!!

I also use the Dremel tool to cut both aluminum and carbon arrows. 2 – part epoxy is the best adhesive. An 8 hr cure time will allow you to “tune” your arrows which may be important with broadheads.
I know that cutting an arrow reduces the grain weight of the arrow. With compound bows the total grain weight is an important safety factor, ie lightest arrow that can be used per draw weight. I don’t know if this is a concern with traditional gear since we usually rely on a heavier arrow for pentration.
However, if you are a weight weenie you can obtain the grains per inch (GPI) info from the manufacturer and calculate your arrows total weight. I have called Easton for the GPI of arrows that do not appear on their website technical data. They are very helpful.

Try the wifes hair dryer and push it back in. But don’t let her see you borrowing it!

I tried using carbons earlier this year and had the same questions as you. I used a small die grinder clamped to my table saw and used the miter to hold the arrow square , one way, and my grinder had to be squared the other, believe it or no IT WORKED!!. Time consuming and a big pain in the backside though. THEN, in the tips of the week column I found my solution, thanks to Larry O. Fischer.
“My son Blake found this little gem at Harbor Freight. The Benchtop Cut-off Saw (item #42307) cuts through wood, aluminum, and/or carbon like butter. The blades are very inexpensive and seem to hold up extremely well, even when cutting hardwoods.”
For the price of 3 Broadheads, 2 brands come to mind, you can have one of these and know you’ve got a square cut. Even if you don’t use it very often, the price is right to have one on hand. Crash87